Sorry - sure it's been asked 1000 times :-( which oil

[eddypeck]

I've had a scoot around the site, and tried the search but without luck. So I'm after some recommendations for which type of oil to use. Like I said in the title, sorry I'm sure this must have been asked over and over again.

I gather 10W40 or 20w50 I live in the UK, so cooler than some of your desert dwelling folk.

But rather than operating temp and viscosity, which I can work out. It's more an issue of which kind, Mineral, Semi-synth or Fully-synth.

When the handbook was printed I suspect there wasn't so much choice as there is these days.

I'm also in a situation, whilst although the oil appear new and golden, I've lost a little of it from a seeping head-gasket (that's another story) and need to top up. I don't know what the Previous Owner used. I bought the bike from a garage that were selling on behalf of a customer, I will try and find out what's been put in there but if I can't I presume my only option is a full oil change as I don't want to risk mixing.

My go to oil has always been Silkolene Super 4 (semi) or Comp (fully) but that's been in much more modern bikes. Am I OK to stick with this?

[fastbysuzuki]

I
My go to oil has always been Silkolene Super 4 (semi) or Comp (fully) but that's been in much more modern bikes. Am I OK to stick with this?

yes you can use either, been using those oils for years no problems my choice is super 4
a lot of the guys in the USA use Rotella it is for diesel use but not available here in the uk.

[Guest]

But rather than operating temp and viscosity, which I can work out. It's more an issue of which kind, Mineral, Semi-synth or Fully-synth.

All three are OK. The thing to avoid is the lighter weight oils like 5W30 as they have friction modifiers in them that will cause clutch problems. If it says "Energy Saving" or similar on the bottle I would suggest avoiding it.

I'm also in a situation, whilst although the oil appear new and golden, I've lost a little of it from a seeping head-gasket (that's another story) and need to top up. I don't know what the Previous Owner used. I bought the bike from a garage that were selling on behalf of a customer, I will try and find out what's been put in there but if I can't I presume my only option is a full oil change as I don't want to risk mixing.

If you're just topping up then use a conventional 10W40, people get far too worked up about mixing oils. If you want to be sure dump the oil and refill but don't change the filter.


Mark

[eddypeck]

What's the deal with car oils, been told in the past to avoid due to the wet clutch in a bikes being effected by the make up of car oils. But I'm sure years ago people didn't seem to worry so much. I happen to have some new 10w 50 semi synth on the shelf, bought for my old 86 golf gti I no longer have. I was tempted to pop a bit in to top up with and save me having to go to the shops but obviously don't want to cause any issues

[salty_monk]

This:

The thing to avoid is the lighter weight oils like 5W30 as they have friction modifiers in them that will cause clutch problems. If it says "Energy Saving" or similar on the bottle I would suggest avoiding it.

Rotella can be got in the UK but it's expensive... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shell-Rotella-Triple-Protection-Diesel/dp/B00CQ3BOD6

If you really want to get in depth: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...s.php?ubb=cfrm

Any 10-40w motorcycle oil should be fine... I would likely look into one of the diesel oils myself - must be something out there Rotella Equivalent for a decent price.

[Brendan W]

I've moved over to 15W40 diesel/light truck oil to get the heavy pressure additives.
I'll use mineral oil as the changes are short.
Not sure I would get much benefit from fully syn.

http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

[eddypeck]

Thanks guys, there's a place local to work I should be able to pick up some silkolene super 4 so might just stick with that for now to get me back up and running then do a bit more research into alternatives for the next full oil change

[Guest]

What's the deal with car oils, been told in the past to avoid due to the wet clutch in a bikes being effected by the make up of car oils. But I'm sure years ago people didn't seem to worry so much. I happen to have some new 10w 50 semi synth on the shelf, bought for my old 86 golf gti I no longer have. I was tempted to pop a bit in to top up with and save me having to go to the shops but obviously don't want to cause any issues

Any of the current automotive oils that are rated at 30 or less for the high temp side of the rating (eg - 5w30) now have friction modifiers that will cause clutch slip. Only oils rated at 30 or less on the hot side have these. Any 10W40, 15W40, 10W50, etc. will not be rated as "energy saving" and do not have the friction modifiers. I use Rotella T5 10W30 or 15W40 diesel oil for the most part to avoid the friction modifier issues.


Mark