GS850GLT Valve clearances.

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  • Nessism
    Forum LongTimer
    GSResource Superstar
    Past Site Supporter
    Super Site Supporter
    • Mar 2006
    • 35784
    • Torrance, CA

    #16
    Originally posted by Agemax
    Just wondering, has anyone actually put a dial gauge on the cams and measured any cam deflection in these so called "bad" positions?
    I did do an experiment measuring valve lash with feeler gauges after positioning the cams using both methods, and the "point the cam away" method resulted in about .02-.04 mm extra clearance.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

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    Comment

    • Steve
      GS Whisperer
      • Jun 2005
      • 35924
      • southwest oHIo

      #17
      Originally posted by peterd123
      That's not in the manual. But makes sense and should be in the manual, I think.
      Well, it's <sort of> in the manual.
      They DO tell you how to position the cam lobes, they just don't detail why to position them that way.


      Originally posted by Nessism
      I did do an experiment measuring valve lash with feeler gauges after positioning the cams using both methods, and the "point the cam away" method resulted in about .02-.04 mm extra clearance.
      The important thing to remember there is that you might see a clearance of 0.04mm and think "great, almost the middle of the range", when you are reading that 'extra' clearance and you really have NONE.

      There is also no way to tell if you need to add the 0.02 or 0.04, so why not just position them correctly and trust the numbers you read?

      There is another advantage of positioning them according to the manual.
      You only need to move the crank FOUR times. Once to set the position for the first two, then three more times for the next three pairs. Putting the lobe "up" for each valve will require you to move the crank EIGHT times.

      Since I am basically lazy, I'll continue to do it the correct way.

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

      Comment

      • Wingsconsin
        Forum Sage
        Past Site Supporter
        • Jan 2013
        • 1725
        • Sussex Wisconsin

        #18
        Just my recent experience

        I just did mine about 3 weeks ago -
        Below you can see the results of the adjustments I made -
        With the tolerances all near the 'bigger' end I have noticed NO change in running or performance
        I have heard it sounds just a little different -- a bit more noise -- like a loud sewing machine (once you can hear beyond the exhaust note)
        I AM chasing an exhaust leak right now and expect that to help quite a bit in quelling the noises -
        Attached Files

        Comment

        • peterd123

          #19
          All valve clearances around 0.075mm. So well within spec. Sounds great. Next main job is the clutch slip.

          Comment

          • peterd123

            #20

            Comment

            • Steve
              GS Whisperer
              • Jun 2005
              • 35924
              • southwest oHIo

              #21
              Originally posted by peterd123
              Next main job is the clutch slip.
              If you have assured yourself that the cable is properly adjusted, fixing the slip is easy and cheap.

              Order up six new OEM Suzuki springs. Do NOT bother with aftermarket "heavy duty" springs. Order up a clutch cover gasket. When you have the gaskets, leave the bike on the side stand. Remove the cable from its bottom mount, remove the clutch cover. Remove the six bolts that hold the pressure plate against the disk pack.

              While you have the clutch open, check a couple of things. Be sure to keep all the disks in the same orientation. Keep the side that was facing out, facing out, do not turn it around. Measure the thickness of the fiber disks, compare that to the minimum thickness published in the manual. Inspect the inside of the clutch basket for notches. If any exist, use a file to remove them to ensure smooth operation of the clutch.

              Here is what you DON'T want to see:


              When you are assured that the disks and the basket are in good condition, put it all back together with the new springs and gasket, then put the back in place and adjust it.

              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
              Family Portrait
              Siblings and Spouses
              Mom's first ride
              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

              Comment

              • peterd123

                #22
                So if I see that. Can I smooth it down or will it need replacing?
                Originally posted by Steve
                If you have assured yourself that the cable is properly adjusted, fixing the slip is easy and cheap.

                Order up six new OEM Suzuki springs. Do NOT bother with aftermarket "heavy duty" springs. Order up a clutch cover gasket. When you have the gaskets, leave the bike on the side stand. Remove the cable from its bottom mount, remove the clutch cover. Remove the six bolts that hold the pressure plate against the disk pack.

                While you have the clutch open, check a couple of things. Be sure to keep all the disks in the same orientation. Keep the side that was facing out, facing out, do not turn it around. Measure the thickness of the fiber disks, compare that to the minimum thickness published in the manual. Inspect the inside of the clutch basket for notches. If any exist, use a file to remove them to ensure smooth operation of the clutch.

                Here is what you DON'T want to see:


                When you are assured that the disks and the basket are in good condition, put it all back together with the new springs and gasket, then put the back in place and adjust it.

                .

                Comment

                • Steve
                  GS Whisperer
                  • Jun 2005
                  • 35924
                  • southwest oHIo

                  #23
                  Here is a quote from post #21:
                  Originally posted by Steve
                  Inspect the inside of the clutch basket for notches. If any exist, use a file to remove them to ensure smooth operation of the clutch.
                  The notches are not always that bad, so it shouldn't take much work with a file to smooth them out.

                  .
                  sigpic
                  mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                  hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                  #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                  #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                  Family Portrait
                  Siblings and Spouses
                  Mom's first ride
                  Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                  (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                  Comment

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