CV fuel hole measurement

[chuck hahn]

Can someone with a CV body laying around throw some calipers to the fuel tee holes and let me know what it is? I want to compare the measurement to the holes in VM carbs. Thanks

[Nessism]

9.0 mm at the entrance, tapering to 8.7 mm deeper in the passage. VMs are about 11.0 mm.

BTW, I bought some brass Tees from a guy on ebay that claims they fit VM's, only they are 9.0 mm. Hit the return button and since they came from China was told to just keep them. I'm starting to think they would work in some CV carbs like these as long as the end was shaved down. I've got a lathe laying in wait too. Only problem is that the inlet nipple is much smaller than the common Mikuni Tee.

[1074cm3]

Hi Chuck, with my cheapo harbor freight calipers it looks to be pretty close to 9.5mm

[chuck hahn]

If the inlet is beefy enough could it be bored out a little?

[1074cm3]

oops, looks like Ness hit send before I did. I'd go with his numbers

[Nessism]

If the inlet is beefy enough could it be bored out a little?

A little. You would need a reamer, not a drill bit.

[chuck hahn]

Suzuki always over did it in many areas. The inlet will probably flow ample fuel to match consumption.

[93Bandit]

I've seen fuel Ts on Z1Enterprises. Are those not compatible with VM or CV carbs?

[chuck hahn]

They are different sizes. What I'm getting at is that if you remove the hard shrunk rubber and stack 3 or 4 orings on there you have made a repairable CV fuel tees with orings instead of having to buy another or go through a bunch of witch craft voodoo to try to stop the leaks.

[Nessism]

They are different sizes. What I'm getting at is that if you remove the hard shrunk rubber and stack 3 or 4 orings on there you have made a repairable CV fuel tees with orings instead of having to buy another or go through a bunch of witch craft voodoo to try to stop the leaks.

I've heard of people using a razor blade or exacto knife and cuting off the portion of the rubber coating that's raised up, similating an O-ring, then installing a real O-ring in it's place. I can imagine this as a reasonable approach. I would NOT remove all the rubber and just stack some O-rings though, because there would be nothing holding the O-rings in a stable position. Regarding soaking the Tee in gasoline to swell the rubber, this is exactly what happens with nitrile o-rings when gas hits them; they swell up and create a solid seal. The ideal fix would be to replace the Tee with a metal version w/real O-ring grooves. I've made a good many fuel Tee's out of brass on my lathe and it's kind of relaxing work, although somewhat time consuming.

Here is a photo of a fuel tee for a Keihin carb I made a while back...

P1030580 by nessism, on Flickr

[gs11ezrydr]

I've heard of people using a razor blade or exacto knife and cuting off the portion of the rubber coating that's raised up, similating an O-ring, then installing a real O-ring in it's place. I can imagine this as a reasonable approach. I would NOT remove all the rubber and just stack some O-rings though, because there would be nothing holding the O-rings in a stable position. Regarding soaking the Tee in gasoline to swell the rubber, this is exactly what happens with nitrile o-rings when gas hits them; they swell up and create a solid seal. The ideal fix would be to replace the Tee with a metal version w/real O-ring grooves. I've made a good many fuel Tee's out of brass on my lathe and it's kind of relaxing work, although somewhat time consuming.

Here is a photo of a fuel tee for a Keihin carb I made a while back...

P1030580 by nessism, on Flickr

Fuel tees look great..Good work..Nice...Thanks..