 ).  J.B. Weld would be my first choice.
 ).  J.B. Weld would be my first choice.
							
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	 Anonymous Anonymous
 It's not a stressed area (unless you overtighten it again ).  J.B. Weld would be my first choice. ).  J.B. Weld would be my first choice.
 
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	 Pete Logan Pete Logan
 Ally/5% Silicone wire. Small scrap of ally. 5 mins practice with the MIG, and your an expert. Trust me on this.Originally posted by joe.dNah Im a Welder, But only MIG....just mild steel.
 
 MIG it, mate. If nothing else, you'll improve your CV 
 
 Pete
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	Forum LongTimerCharter Member
 GSResource Superstar
 Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 44550
- off grid cabin in the woods
 
 You're better off not to try to clamp it. If you clamp it, then the tension of it trying to reopen when the clamp is removed is transferred to the JB. Fill the unstressed crack without using a clamp of any kind. It will last longer.
 
 Earl
 
 Originally posted by joe.dI was thinking I could even get a hose clamp on the crack after a I JB weld it to close the crackKomorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
 
 I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.
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	 Hoomgar Hoomgar
 I agree with him and Earl too Joe. The clamp is a bad idea. Just do what Earl and Giblet said and you'll be fine. I have also JB welded many things over the years and they all held fast. The stuff is tuff and great!Originally posted by joe.dprobably right 3 phase
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	 Katamaniac Katamaniac
 Definately go with the JB weld. I used it on my boat engine block after I forgot to drain the water out of it one year. That was five years ago and it still doesn't leak. Just make sure you prep the area for a good bond.
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	 joe.d joe.d
 Its ALL good
 CRISIS IS OVER
 actually once its all painted and the engine is cleaned its not gonna even notice, theres a seem in the moulding just near where the crack was and I jb welded it to the seam...and it looks good if I do say so my self
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