Repack header can?

[Hoomgar]

My 78 GS1000 that I just got came with a Kerker header on it and it is in serviceable condition so I would like to keep it if I can. It has a few of the normal bottoming out dings in the lower pipes and is well rusted but other than that seems to be very intact.

It has a sound that I like a lot but is loud! I have it off right now due to other repairs and maintenance being done to the bike so I figured I?d give it a quick sand and re-paint with some high heat paint.

My question is this. When I took the can off I noticed something rattling around inside it but it would not shake out? So I pulled the baffle and there was pieces of wires in it that looks to have been used to hold in some packing maybe? Am I right? And if so, maybe repacking this thing will quiet it down a bit.

So then the questions are:

1. Should I repack or is it not worth the bother?

2. If the answer to #1 is yes then what packing should I use and where do I get it??

3. If I do repack how long can I expect it to last?

4. And lastly, if I repack will it affect my jetting?


Thx guys

[first timer]

go buy some stainless steel wool and use that to pack it, add a little at a time till you ge the sound you want. the packing shouldn't really effect the jetting, go ahead and give it a try.

-ryan

[Hoomgar]

Awesome! 8)


Thx Ryan

[Anonymous]

Sounds like a similar system to mine. Yes, the wires were to hold the packing in place.

1) Depends on whether you want the pipe or not. If you plan to keep it, then go to the trouble.
2) Most bike shops sell packing kits. Look for MX kits if you can't find a street kit; the packing is the same either way.
3) Again, depends. It should last a season or two unless you ride an amazing amount. Wrapping the perf core with S/S window screen before the fibreglass helps keep the packing in much longer.
4) Yes. Not a lot, but it will shift things slightly richer. Unless you are borderline rich right now, it won't be a big deal.

Mark

[humhead]

Hoogmar
The are replacement baffles available for Kerkers.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...=417&catId=403

Terry

[Hoomgar]

Thx guys. I am running with Ryan's idea.

Ryan, is this some old school known thing or did you just think of that? If that was just an off the wall idea then I will make a "Tips and Tricks" thread showing the process.

You should see how nice it came out
I can't wait to hear it.

[Anonymous]

I also use the window screen wire, also you can also use fiberglass house insulation, it works fine & is cheap, but won't last very long. You can find fiberglass mat at Wal-Mart, in the automotive section. The same stuff that came on the baffel when new. About $3 or $4 for enough to pack it one time. The jetting difference will be very minimal. You'll probably not notice any difference.

[skip]

I used house fiberglas too. i wrapped electrical tape around it to hold it tight to insert it. The electrical tape would burn alittle first time out ,but the everthing would be ok. I t would last a few months before needidng it again. I had a roll so there was no cost

[Anonymous]

One would hope that the jetting was right for the pipe in its origonal condition so I wouldnt re jet until I repacked as it may well be right on the money as is. many people dont realize the importance of altitude on jetting. My gs was jetted in Calgary so it is way too lean for sea level so it is important to find out where it was jetted last. The higher the leaner and visa versa as there are more molicules of oxygen per cubic foot at sea level than higher up but a carb mixes a fixed amount of gas per cubic foot regardless how much oxygen is or isnt in it so high up your sealevel bike is getting too much gas for the thinner air therefore it is rich. Too rich is a drag, too lean is soon an expense.

[Hoomgar]

I used Ryan's idea of the steel wool. I took pictures of the process and will post it as a tip if it pans out nice and I like the result. I am waiting until I run the bike though to do that.

Thx for all the help. I like the steel wool idea because if it works out it will be a longer lasting solution to the glass bating.

[Anonymous]

I used Ryan's idea of the steel wool. I took pictures of the process and will post it as a tip if it pans out nice and I like the result. I am waiting until i run the bike though to do that.

It will work out, Mark. The steel wool will not reduce sound as effectively as the fibreglass will, but it will last almost indefinitely. If you like the sound you get with the steel wool, it will be a better choice overall.

Where did you get the S/S wool?


Mark

[Hoomgar]

I couldn't find any stainless steel wool. It would most likely cost more than the pipe if I did :?

I just used grade 4 course steel wool from the hardware store. let the rusting begin!

The carbon should help keep a little of the rust down

[first timer]

hey guys i have been don some poking around as well i think i need to repack my core too, i found some ss wool, here is one link,

http://www.briwax-online.com/sswool.html

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/raymond/stainsteelsp.html

the best i could find right now is SS kettel scrubbers online in ebay or a 5lb roll SS wool med course or fine for 50 bucks a roll.

i would think about ordering a 5lb roll if i can get enough intrest and get the cost down to like 12 bucks or so 5lb's should cover at least 3 bikes.

-ryan

[Hoomgar]

I'll go in with you Ryan. If there is no other interest I'll split it in half with you. If there is too much interest we may need to order more

I will see how the regular wool holds out first. It worked great.

[Hoomgar]

Guys, this seems to have worked out great! I made a post in the tips section. Check it out:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?p=337863#337863