Just got a GS450 that's been sitting a while. What do I do?

[Dave_A]

Ok, I just got this bike.

It's an 82 GS-450T, and as far as I can tell, it's been sitting for 2-3 years.

The registration was last renewed in June of 1999, so I'm assuming that the last time it was ran was between 6/99 and 6/00.

The last owner left gas in the tank (about 1/3-1/6 full), and there is oil in the crankcase (according to the dipstick on the oil cap). I don't have a battery yet, so I haven't tried to crank it.

What should I change/check/etc... I know the gas in the tank has got to go, but what else?

Also, there are 2 hoses coming off the inside rears of the carbs (one per cylinder), which are plugged into the carbs, but just resting on the crankcase. They look like either fuel or vaccuum lines, and that they should be plugged into something back by the battery box, but I don't know what...

Edited to add:
The fuel valve was left in a vertical position, was a little stiff, and could not be turned by hand. However, I was able to turn it easily with a pliers, and it now turns by hand without one.

[focus frenzy]

Ok first, the two lines are carburator vent lines and should just stick down behind the crank case, (asuming the lines to the fuel petcock are still atached)

quick question: do you know why it was parked?

the first thing you will need to do is drain the tank, while you have the tank off, remove the carburators.
once you drain the tank, get a gallon of "berrymans B-12" carburator cleaner, or a eqivalant quality carb cleaner and pour it in the tank and slosh it around for a few minutes, alow it to sit and soak in for ten to twenty minutes and slosh it around some more, repeat a few times and then drain and inspect for varnish still remaining in the tank.
depending on how bad the gas was you may have to repeat a few times, also watch out for rust, depending on the level of rust, you may have to use tank cream to seal it or replace the tank.

now to the carburators
get a couple of spray cans of good quality carb. cleaner (berryman b-12)
with the carbs on a clean clear work bench set them up side down on the table and spray some cleaner around where the carb bowls atach the the bodies to help un stick the gaskets, remove the bowls and see how much gunk is in them.
clean the bowls and then remove all the brass jets (screws with holes in them) clean the tiny holes in them very carefully, soaking them in carb cleaner helps alot.
make sure you remember where every thing goes, it is a good idea to make notes and diagrams of where every thing goes.
spray cleaner through all the openings and remove the top caps and inspect the diaphrams, make sure that they are not torn or have any holes in them.

once you are satisfied that you have the carbs clean, remove the boots that atached the carbs to the head, inspect for cracks in the rubber and the condition of the o-ring gaskets, if the rubber is cracked or loose from the metal base, they will need to be replaced.

install the now clean carbs and then change the old oil, put in "non" energy conserving oil and a new oil filter.
install new battery and try and start it!!

once you have it running, test the charging system!

[Dave_A]

quick question: do you know why it was parked?

Nope, got it from a charity auction (Salvation Army) under the assumption that it would need a little clean-up to run...

The info on how long it's been sitting comes from when it was last registered (the plates had a 1999 registration sticker on them).


Thanks for the other info, though...

[Hap Call]

When you drain the old oil, look for metal particles in the oil and on the oil plug magnet...if you don't find any then it will be very promising.

Also, flush the brake lines out with some silicon brake fluid and make sure the brakes are working before you ride it. Fred Flintstone stops are hell on shoe leather!

Hap

[Anonymous]

quick question: do you know why it was parked?

Nope, got it from a charity auction (Salvation Army) under the assumption that it would need a little clean-up to run...

The info on how long it's been sitting comes from when it was last registered (the plates had a 1999 registration sticker on them).


Thanks for the other info, though...

I got an old gn400 like that, from an auction. After I cleaned the carbs it started right up and I ended up riding it back and forth to work for three years. 75 to 80 mpg. One thing that I did have to do with this bike was change the chain. The sprockets were new but the chain rusted and was useless and caused alot of vibration until I changed it.
Al

[Dave_A]

Thanks again, guys, but a few more questions

Thanks for the info...

I'm trying to get the tank off, but I can't figure out how to remove the seat. The Clymer manual I checked out of the library tells me how to pull the tank, but there's nothing I can find about getting the seat off (To get at the tank bolts)...

Also, which battery wire (the thick black one, or the thin one with the white stripe) is positive and which is negative...

[Anonymous]

Umm maybe you shouldn't clean the carbs if you can't get the seat off or tell which cable is positive or negative. Just a suggestion. But then again you gotta learn somehow and I coulnd't think of a better way.

The seat bolts are linked into those turnsignals. Its only two bolts the front just slides in with a lip no bolts there. There is a nut on the other side (inside the fender).

RED is positive BLACK is negative always.
The one with the white stripe is just a ground wire.

Change the oil and oil filter also in there o ring.

Make sure your intake boots do not have cracks in them. It will make your engine run really bad. It's an easily overlooked problem.

Put some fresh spark plugs in it. B8ES or BR8ES if you have a pacemaker haha.

Get a battery at walmart they are cheapest and both I have got have lasted longer than any other battery. Everstart is the brand.

I just went through the same project your starting only with a
82' GS450TX. Pretty fun bike to ride. Good luck on your bike. I never could find a carb rebuild kit. Let me know if you do.

[Dave_A]

Battery wires

I had no red wire, so I hooked up the thick black wire to positive, and the thin one to negative.... I know (from working on my car) that there should be a red one, but...

The bike powered up but (See 'bad news' thread) when I tried to start it, the thin wire (and the other grounds that it connected to) burned off their insulation...

Thanks on the seat, I saw those nuts and figured that that would do it, but I didn't know if there was an easier way...

[Anonymous]

Haha! man I told you that black one with the stripe on it was a ground wire! NOw you burned it up!

There is a red wire its connected to the ignition stuff (that plate with the electronical looking things on it on the left side of the bike). Just disconnect the postive wire from the post on the side plate not the battery its alot easier that way.

Be careful glad you didn't melt your fingers. Good luck!

[Dave_A]

[quote="Ryan"]Haha! man I told you that black one with the stripe on it was a ground wire! NOw you burned it up!

[quote]

Heh... Should.. have... waited... before... hooking... up... battery...

DOH!

Oh well, this weekend I'll try again after I replace those ground wires & install positive battery leads from the regulator & starter (8ga car-stereo wire... If that fries...)...

[earlfor]

LMAO :-) :-) :-) :-) Perhaps you should also add, when preparing for a ride, if upon mounting the bike you notice the handlebars and mirrors are behind you, turn around before proceeding. LOL :-)

Earl


[quote="Ryan"]Umm maybe you shouldn't clean the carbs if you can't get the seat off