Once my bike warms up for a bit, whenever I pull the clutch in, it will idle at like 3k. Why is it doing it and what can I do to correct it? Also, I went to change my clutch cable, but couldn't get the side case that covers it off. The phillips screws wouldn't budge, and I didn't push it too hard because I didn't want stripped screws? Whats the best approach? Lots of WD40 then an impact?
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For the idle problem, it sounds like you may have a leak in you intake. Check your carb boots. As for the screws, as weird as this sounds, try grabbing them with a pair of channel-locks to get them started. When I've run into that problem, that was my solution. -
The high idle is a classic intake leak symptom.
Check the manifold clamps first for tightness. If that doesn't help, you need to inspect the manifolds for cracks/hardness, and replace the manifold o-rings if yours has them.
I always use a good fitting bit in my impact wrench to remove the Phillips. Then I chuck 'em and buy Allens.And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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Another bit of O-ring advice that Mr. Krause gave me...put some hi-temp grease on the new O-rings to help them last. To be quite honest, I'd plan on changing them. Its a cheap and pretty easy job. It also makes a big difference.Comment
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are you meaning between the intake manifold and carb, or between the carb and airbox?Comment
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Between the intake boots and the head. Hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, but you do know about the idle adjust screw?
Regarding the clutch cover screws, I agree that channellocks (or small vice-grips) will work, but to me, that would be a last resort. Impact would definitely be the preferable way to go. What I would try though, is a titanium or slotted #3 (if I remember right) phillips, that fits the slots perfectly. In a 1/4 drive socket handle, you can focus one hand completely on applying pressure, and the other hand can generate adequate torque. Oh... and it really helps if you put some valve-grinding compound on the screw driver bit, and even plain old dirt helps improve the friction between the bit and the screw. For what it's worth.Comment
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I got the clutch cover off with a impact screwdriver so the clutch cable has been done now. I haven't messed with the leak any yet, but could it possibly also cause a hesitation? Whenever I give it a little throttle accelerating, usually in 1st and 2nd gear it hesitates a bit. I'm ordering new brake pads and some pod air filters tonite, so when I put the air filters on I'm going to check for the leak.Comment
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Changing the O rings cured a lot of ills for me. You could also be talking about dirty carbs.Comment
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take a can of starter fluid, and spray a little where the carb boot meets the motor (do this whilst its running) if the motor revs, then you have an intake leak, a cheap and dirty fix is to use a little black RV sealant under the boots...like the others said, sounds like classic leak symptoms.Comment
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Higher idle and hesitation are both classic symptoms of an intake leak.Originally posted by gasisontherightAnd on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!Comment
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where can I order the parts for it? I guess I'll order the O-rings and the brakepads I need from the same place. 8)Comment
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In case you have trouble finding the O-rings, I know you can get them here.
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very simalar problem here
my 81 gs 650g idles at 3k when hot but normaly when cool I can pull the plug wire for the far left hole and it goes back to normal and I almost have to do this in town I have sprayed every thing from wd 40 with propane propelent to ether around the boot with no effect I think theres somthing weird with that carb
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