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82 GS650G Won't Start

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    82 GS650G Won't Start

    Ok, Friday, the GS starting acting a little grumpy when starting. The last time on the way home, it kind of grumbled a little and then kicked over. So, I charged the battery over the weekend, and this morning the same thing. I didn't have much faith in the battery, its a few years old, and didn't seem to be charging really well, so I bought a new one, charged it up, and....., the same thing.

    It fired off once, but now it won't turn over. I can hear the relay engaging, but the starter doesn't turn at all.

    Anyone have a similar experience before? Suggestions are of course appreciated. My guess is that I need another starter.

    Thanks,

    Terry

    #2
    Of course everyone will suggest the stator papers and a new regulator but if your getting 14-15 volts across the battery then it is probably just a bad battery. The heat of summer is really hard on batteries, mine lasted just three years and dies earlier this spring.

    Get it running and check the charging voltage at 5000 rpm.
    1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
    1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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      #3
      I swapped a new battery in, and I get exactly the same thing.

      Terry

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        #4
        On your starter solenoid, there are three wires. The small (usually striped) wire on top of the solenoid is the energizer wire for the starter circuit. That wire (with ignition switched on) will show no voltage (not supposed to). When you press the starter button, the wire should show close to battery voltage.
        Check that you are getting voltage on that energizing wire. If you are, then next................. there are two large terminals on top of the solenoid. One terminal is power in and is wired to your battery positive terminal. The other large terminal is power out and is wired to your starter. You will always have voltage on the power in terminal regardless of the ignition key position. With the ignition on and the starter button pressed, you should have voltage on the large output termina that runs to the starter.
        Make those check, but before you do, check your main ground first. That will be a large black wire the run from the battery negative terminal to a bolt on top of the transmission beneath the airbox. Remove the bolt from the transmission top and check the ring connector for corrosion and then remove the cable from the battery end and clean it. Then do the checks above. If you have all voltages at the relay, then your starter is the problem.

        Also, if you have a new battery, when it first came off the charger after overnight, it should have shown between 13 to 13.2 volts. 12.5 volts is only about a 40% charge in the battery, so at that level of voltage, the battery would be very weak and may not start the bike even if nothing else is wrong.

        Earl



        Originally posted by 92G
        I swapped a new battery in, and I get exactly the same thing.

        Terry
        All the robots copy robots.

        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

        You are free to choose, but you are not free from the consequences of your choices.

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          #5
          Since the starter relay clicks, the problem lies in the amount of voltage hitting the starter or the starter or starter clutch.

          First thing is to test your electrical system. Go to the autoparts store and buy their smallest hydrometer. It is essentially a syringe with a hose that hooks on the end. You put the hose into each cell and draw in some fluid. There are little colored balls in the syringe part. They will float or not float and there will be a chart on the packaging that tells you if a cell is dead or not. Since the battery is new, it probably is OK but you need to check. If it is good, then go to this web site: https://www.electrexusa.com/ These folk have a great trouble shooting flow chart under their support link. You will need to check the alternating current out of your stator or generator (not sure on your bike) and then if it is OK, you will go to the R&R and check its function, etc... by the time you are done, you will have resolved your electrical issue or at the least found out what is causing the problem... of course, FIRST check the battery connections... ground and hot to starter solenoid.

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            #6
            I'd be thinking about pulling the starter and cleaning it up. Check the length of the brushes and make sure they are up to spec. Take a piece of fine sandpaper or emery cloth and polish up the commutator, the part of the starter the brushes make contact with. After polishing up the commutator take something and clean out the grooves on it.

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              #7
              I think what I would do is decide if this was a sudden problem or a gradual one. A gradual worsening of the starter performance might point to bad or contaminated brushes in the starter, battery woes, or bad connections. A sudden problem, especially with charging issues, usually means something died outright and needs to be replaced, like the RR.

              Being a gradual problem, and I am assuming (dangerous word) that you do not have dim lights, with the starter I would :

              Clean and check those big power wires between the battery, solenoid, and starter as well as those cheap zinc plated screws. Look for damaged wires, broken terminals, loose or dirty bolts, etc. Getting that starter out will be a real Hillary, the carbs are in the way and the screw on the cover plate in the middle is real tough to install.

              One m,ore test that can be done is a voltage drop test. Connecta red multimeter lead to the + battery terminal, connect the other end to the solenoid on the terminal that goes to the battery. When you try to start it the meter should read nearly 0 volts. If it reads 1 or 2 volts then you have burnt contacts in the solenoid that are adding resistance to the circuit. If the solenoid buzzes this will burn them in short order.

              I have a spare solenoid for you if you want it, just PM me with your address.
              1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
              1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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