Carb Wrestling

[Flyin' Low]

Does anyone know of a way to remove (and re-install) the carbs on a '82 1100EZ (or similar, stock airbox/filter setup) without it becoming a full-on, balls-out, grudge-match wrestle to the death?

Perusing past posts, I don't see anything other than "switch to pods" which is not an option - I don't want to change the bike, I'm just wondering if there's something I'm missing in the install/remove procedure. I don't mind pulling the gas tank, removing the cross-brace, removing the filter box, and unbolting & shifting back the airbox. That takes all of 10 minutes, now. But I still end up sweaty, bruised and bleeding after tilting, twisting, yanking, prying, and shoving to get the carb bank in or out - and I can't help but think that's just bad for something. Oh - all the rubber boots are reasonably pliable - not new by any means, but not stiff as boards, either.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Nick

[flyingace]

it's funny - that is exactly what I was doing just before I read this post. It is a bitch to get the bank of carbs on the intake boots.

It would help a lot if there was some kind of lube you could spray on the carb mouths before you slid them onto the boots. I just don't know what you could use that wouldn't be corrosive to the rubber. Anyone?

Thanks,
Ace.

[bjrehill]

Try using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the boots when you go to take them out. The rubber gets stiff after awhile. The heat softens them up. You can also wamr the engine up before you remove teh carb bank. It'll have teh same effect.

When you go to put them back in a little oil or silicon inside the boots helps as well as warming them up. It does take a bit of elbow grease in any case.

[mark m]

Does anyone know of a way to remove (and re-install) the carbs on a '82 1100EZ (or similar, stock airbox/filter setup) without it becoming a full-on, balls-out, grudge-match wrestle to the death?

No. It is a b%tch, isn't it?

Make sure the boots are as soft as possible. As noted, a hair dryer will help out there. Try using silicone spray or a swipe of white lithium grease inside the intake manifolds to smooth things a bit. I switched to pods a season earlier than planned just because of the effort to remove the carbs the first time. I was worried about breaking/bending/tearing something when getting it back together. With pods I can pull the carbs in 5 minutes, with no swearing at all and that is a beautiful thing...


Mark

[flyingace]

I went out and got some silicone spray lube. sprayed the inside bottom of the boots and the outside top of the carbs. The carbs were on in 5 seconds. Great stuff!

Thanks all.

Ace.

[Tarbash 27]

I USE A PROPANE TORCH FROM A DISTANCE TO GIVE A LITTLE HEAT TO THE INTAKE BOOTS, MAKE SURE YOU DONT BURN THE BOOTS AND SET THEM ON FIRE

[LW_Icarus]

I wouldnt put anything petroleum based on rubber. silicone would be a much better option. petroleum based chemicals will attack most rubber parts.

I straddle the bike to install the carbs, it seems to offer the best leverage and point of view for the job.

[moto_dan]

Carb Wrestling! Now that would be a good title for a Reality TV show. I personally use the blood from my knuckles to lubricate the boots

[Flyin' Low]

Thanks all for the tips so far -- lubing the boots w/ silicone seems like it has potential. I can't warm up the engine right now -- if it started I wouldn't need to remove the buggers in the 1st place -- but the generally sweltering weather in DC these days keeps even a moderate breeze feel like standing in front of a hair dryer.

Keep those ideas coming... anyone found any preferred angle of tilting them (forward end down seems to help a bit, and keep the throttle from getting snagged) or decide if left- or right-side insertion/removal matters?

Nick

[Don Lobacz]

I believe that for your engine setup, removing the forward boots first is the way to go (between the carbs and motor). In fact, I think you just have to remove 2 of them (the right ones seem to stick in my mind). You loosen them, twist them, push the carbs down and then pull them off one at a time.

[NickNoo]

Taking the bank of carbs off should be easy - just tilt them up and down with some pulling pressure from one side. Putting them back used to be a 20 minute wrestling match for me, but I now have it down to about 2 minutes !

Heres how I do it on my 850 :

First, ALWAYS connect up the throttle and choke cables before fitting the carbs as they are virtually impossible to do once the carbs are in place.

Take a cupful of hot water (not boiling hot though).
With the carbs held over the mouths of the rubber boots (to stop any water entering the engine), pour a little over each boot (start with just a few drops on each). The carbs should pop easily into place.
If not, repeat using a little more water on each boot.

It works for me !!

[Darkchyld]

I just put an 850L back together. I used a silicone based spray lube in the intake boot. Put your cables on first. Get astride the the bike and apply even steady pressure on the carbs, rock up and down a bit and they'll slip right in..

[LW_Icarus]

I set the bottom edge of the carb on the bottom edge of the boots, apply down and forward pressure, and rock em around a bit (while astride the bike) with the boots lightly lubed (honestly I use a tiny amount of spit )

I cant remember the last time I spent more than a minute or two for the whole process . Ive never warmed the boots on any bike, its just a matter of getting the right leverage. the 850 has a ton of room compared to some other bikes Ive had. the old hard ones went together about the same as brand new ones.

hooking the throttle up ahead of time is indeed the best way, although I leave the choke for after.

[Jay B]

I must be lucky cause I can get my carbs on and off with no problems and no silicone spray. No my boots arn't knew they are the originals. I've never had a problem even the first time I took them off.

[scotty]

Carb Wrestling! Now that would be a good title for a Reality TV show. I personally use the blood from my knuckles to lubricate the boots

You are AlwaYS THERE AND READY TO HELP dAN.