supprise supprise, not Original

[brownie]

Hi to All,
The other day I was trouble shooting the Electrics On my 80 GS1000G,It seems she dont like to Charge the Battery when the Head light is turned on,So I thought after reading the pages care of GSresources.I would Clean all the Electrical connections on my Joy toy,and to my supprise the R/R is not Original it is off a Honda CB 250 ,my Question is does any one think that this R/R is compatible with my Machine?I have not, as yet check the electricals with a multimeter as I dont Own One although I will get around to that. will Other model R/R work on theses GS Makes,Say R/R from a CBR1000?
Thanks......Brownie

Ps I am Currently Doing a custom Job on my GS.So I tend to Haunt these Pages Late at night,The Information that is Given is priceless,So to all the people that Have gone before me I say Thanks

[earlfor]

Re: supprise supprise, not Original

The first thing to check is the AC stator output on all three phases. If you dont have the current to start with, there isnt anything for the R/R to rectify. You will need a multimeter. There should be 80 V AC on each phase of the stator when the engine is running at 5k rpm.

Earl

Hi to All,
The other day I was trouble shooting the Electrics On my 80 GS1000G,It seems she dont like to Charge the Battery when the Head light is turned on,So I thought after reading the pages care of GSresources.I would Clean all the Electrical connections on my Joy toy,and to my supprise the R/R is not Original it is off a Honda CB 250 ,my Question is does any one think that this R/R is compatible with my Machine?I have not, as yet check the electricals with a multimeter as I dont Own One although I will get around to that. will Other model R/R work on theses GS Makes,Say R/R from a CBR1000?
Thanks......Brownie

Ps I am Currently Doing a custom Job on my GS.So I tend to Haunt these Pages Late at night,The Information that is Given is priceless,So to all the people that Have gone before me I say Thanks

[Anonymous]

I too, am having the same problem. I found my stator and RR were bad, so I replaced both. They now check out ok. My charging system works great until I turn on my headlight. Yesterday I wired the headlight directly off the aux terminals in the fuse box and disconnected all other lighting electrics. I ran the headlight thru a switch and as soon as I turn it on, voltage drops between 12.3 - 12.5. Battery is new and checks out ok. I even replaced the headlight.

I originally thought I had a short, but I traced it back to something mounted on the left side of the battery box, next to the fuses. I'm not sure what it is. It has a plug for two wires and one for four. The plug w/four wires goes to my coils... This black box contains a circuit board. With all of it's connections unplugged, I get a reading of around 800-1200 ohms across each of the four wires.

I am now at a total loss and ready to throw in the towel.

[earlfor]

That would likely be the ignitor box. The two wire plug is a black and a white wire? If you have a factory electronic ignition, that box is in use. If you have a Dyna ignition, that box should be disconnected and removed.

Earl

I originally thought I had a short, but I traced it back to something mounted on the left side of the battery box, next to the fuses. I'm not sure what it is. It has a plug for two wires and one for four. The plug w/four wires goes to my coils... This black box contains a circuit board. With all of it's connections unplugged, I get a reading of around 800-1200 ohms across each of the four wires.

I am now at a total loss and ready to throw in the towel.

[earlfor]

Ok then, lets backtrack. Describe exactly what steps, in order, that you took to determine that your stator and R/R were OK.

Earl


[quote="chester"]
I too, am having the same problem. I found my stator and RR were bad, so I replaced both. They now check out ok. My charging system works great until I turn on my headlight.

[Anonymous]

First, I replaced the battery. Charged her up and she was/is holding a 12.8 charge. I replaced the stator and r/r. I checked the ac voltage on the stator leads (without being plugged into anything) and at about 5000 rpm it showed about 85 vac. All three readings were equal. Stator should be good.

I plugged the stator directly to the new r/r. Measured the dc voltage across the blk and red leads of the r/r. At about 2500 rpm it showed about 13.5vdc and increased with higher rpm's. Should be good, right? With everything connected and all lights on, except for the headlight, I had over 13vdc at the battery at about 2500rpm, and about 14.5vdc at 5000rpm. These are all guestimates from what I remember. It's been a long weekend. Also, I have the blk and red leads of the r/r connected directly to the battery terminals and the stator goes straight to the r/r.

Most recently, I've replaced the headlight (55/60 watts). It is a sealed type light/bulb. I cannot replace just the bulb. This mounts into a vetter fairing. The headlight seems to work ok at an idle (except for the charging my battery part). As I increase the rpms, the light goes dim around 2000rpm and then goes bright again a little higher than 2000rpm. With the headlight on and the engine at 5000 rpm, voltage at the battery, if I'm lucky, hits about 12.5vdc, which is pretty much the same as when it is idling.

Is it normal for the ignitor leads (the group of 4) to show some continuity? They read about 800 ohms. The other two leads I believe are black and purple (or maybe blue). Don't quote me on that. Is there some way I can check this thing?

I just don't know anymore. I have an older honda cm400 that was working well when I parked her. Should I try pulling the voltage regulator off of her? I could also try one from a 650 yamaha. ?

[earlfor]

I plugged the stator directly to the new r/r. Measured the dc voltage across the blk and red leads of the r/r. At about 2500 rpm it showed about 13.5vdc and increased with higher rpm's. Should be good, right? With everything connected and all lights on, except for the headlight, I had over 13vdc at the battery at about 2500rpm, and about 14.5vdc at 5000rpm.
******************** No. The voltage at the battery should be in the 14.5v range or slightly above with the engine at 5k rpm and the headlight ON, on HIGH beam. If it is not, the internal output gate in the R/R is too low and the R/R is faulty.



These are all guestimates from what I remember. It's been a long weekend. Also, I have the blk and red leads of the r/r connected directly to the battery terminals and the stator goes straight to the r/r.
***************** Thats right.



Most recently, I've replaced the headlight (55/60 watts). It is a sealed type light/bulb. I cannot replace just the bulb. This mounts into a vetter fairing. The headlight seems to work ok at an idle (except for the charging my battery part). As I increase the rpms, the light goes dim around 2000rpm and then goes bright again a little higher than 2000rpm. With the headlight on and the engine at 5000 rpm, voltage at the battery, if I'm lucky, hits about 12.5vdc, which is pretty much the same as when it is idling.
******************* sign of a faulty R/R gate.



Is it normal for the ignitor leads (the group of 4) to show some continuity? They read about 800 ohms. The other two leads I believe are black and purple (or maybe blue). Don't quote me on that. Is there some way I can check this thing?
****************I dont know if that is normal or not. My service manual gives no scale of resistance values for the ignitor.



I just don't know anymore. I have an older honda cm400 that was working well when I parked her. Should I try pulling the voltage regulator off of her? I could also try one from a 650 yamaha. ?

******************** Everything points to a incorrectly working R/R.
Change it and see if you then get 14.5v+ at 5k rpm with the headlight on and on high beam.

Earl