Engine - Cam Chain noise?

[Anonymous]

This is re: that GS450L that I'm reconstructing. (see elsewhere on forum)

It seems to be an '81 instead of an '80, not sure how different that is???

Anyway, rebuilt the petcock which cured the flow problem, still had gas pouring out the vent pipe on the right carby.

Pulled both carbs and found crust, rust and slime from hell in the float chamber, on the floats and also the slide of the right carby. The slide was frozen in place solid (down).

After gently dissolving (two overnight soaks) the glarp on the slide, it finally came back to smooth movement, I rebuilt both carbs and now, back on the bike, they work just fine.


Now that it's running pretty well.. Two things:

There seems to be excessive engine noise especially cam chain like noise. It idles and revs just fine. It has not been out on the road yet.

I'm not sure what "normal" noise levels are on this bike.
Chain tension?
Also, how can I be sure we're getting oil up top and through the whole lube path. Can I open something above the heads that is easy to get at?

I'd hate to burn up the cams or snap a chain at this point.

Thanks guys, you've really been great through this.

shanzi

[Anonymous]

bueller

Anyone?

[gspaul]

OK! these are noiser than modern bikes, but check you valve clearances, a lot of people neglect them.
I wont go in to detail about the camchain tensioner, do a search on this site it's all been coverd and is easy to check/ rebuild.
There is often a bit of clutch rattle on these bikes, nothing to worry about normally.
A carb sync will often cancel out a bit of noise and improve fuel consumption, dead easy to do on a twin, no special equipment needed.
If you where not getting oil to the head you would know it very quikly(insert grinding noise here)
Change the oil and fiter often.

Paul ( also known as " anybody")

[Anonymous]

Thanks

Yo gspaul

Thanks,

Found extensive camchain stuff on the forum.. a real treasure house. Will do.

This bike had been laying on its side outdoors for at least 5 years when I got it. (I'm amazed I didn't find more damage). Just don't want to fry it on the first road test.

Will do the valves when my Clymer get here. I've been using a 250/425 manual with a 450 appendix. Similar only, not a lot of 450 stuff.

Never really opened up a motor or rebuilt carbs before so thanks, bigtime, again.

Any further tips or cautions most welcome.

s

[gspaul]

No probs, just ask question's as you go and I will do the best I can for you, as others have done for me.
Good luck!

[Anonymous]

kew

Thanks again. (anyone)

What size bolt is the oil drain plug. 19mm socket too small, been using a a metric croissant wrench . 8)

[snowbeard]

I found a plug socket worked quite nicely, but I don't know what size it was , be careful of the torque on the oil drain plug, it aluminum pan will strip very easily. it's low, like 10 foot pounds or so?

that's a darn shiny bike for five years out! nice score!!

[Anonymous]

Drain

Thanks snowbeard,

I tried a 15/16 plug socket and it almost went on, but no.

Will have to add some larger metrics to my tools, my box and sockets stop at 19mm.

Thanks for the heads up on the torque limit.


s

[Anonymous]

that's a darn shiny bike for five years out! nice score!!

oh yeah! thanks. It sure wasn't that shiny when I first got it home.

Fortunately it was absolutely filthy. Mostly coated with NC mud/clay overtop a greasy film that actually protected much of the chrome and paint. After a laborious cleaning and polishing I was quite pleased to discover that shiny thing. The seat was shredded, mirrors and cables were gone. The tank has some dings in it, but nothing really bad.

Found it lying in this Honda (mostly) graveyard:
...unfortunately, not a lot of Suzuki parts.. cuz.. they're still on the road! 8)

[DMPLATT]

Re: Engine - Cam Chain noise?

This is re: that GS450L that I'm reconstructing. (see elsewhere on forum)

It seems to be an '81 instead of an '80, not sure how different that is???

Anyway, rebuilt the petcock which cured the flow problem, still had gas pouring out the vent pipe on the right carby.

Pulled both carbs and found crust, rust and slime from hell in the float chamber, on the floats and also the slide of the right carby. The slide was frozen in place solid (down).

After gently dissolving (two overnight soaks) the glarp on the slide, it finally came back to smooth movement, I rebuilt both carbs and now, back on the bike, they work just fine.


Now that it's running pretty well.. Two things:

There seems to be excessive engine noise especially cam chain like noise. It idles and revs just fine. It has not been out on the road yet.

I'm not sure what "normal" noise levels are on this bike.
Chain tension?
Also, how can I be sure we're getting oil up top and through the whole lube path. Can I open something above the heads that is easy to get at?

I'd hate to burn up the cams or snap a chain at this point.

Thanks guys, you've really been great through this.

shanzi

Nice Ride dude. man, I love that seat. Sure could fit some nice ladies on the back. 8O Of course my wife wouldn't dare, but my Daughter would love it.

Sweet. 8)

[ptm]

Re: kew

What size bolt is the oil drain plug. 19mm socket too small, been using a a metric croissant wrench . 8)

It's a 21mm, but a 13/16 spark plug is about the same (it's a little tighter(20.64mm), but it fits). I think they did that so they could put one socket in the tool kit that would work for both.

Do be careful not to overtighten.

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys.

First class info here.

Will pick up the next rank of metric sockets and mind my footpounds.

Appreciate the comps too there dude. You know, labour of love.

Sean

[blo]

Ok, here goes. I've rebuilt a -81 GS450 using the Haynes GS400/425 manual -> no problems, everything is the same, or can be deduced from common sense
I found that the cam chain tensioner spring was a bit loose, this allowed the cam chain to "rattle" the tensioner, causing much of the sound you described.
When the bike is running, look at the big knurled knob behind the cylinders. It should NOT be moving. If it's not moving, check that the fastening screw on the opposite side is not screwed in (locking the plunger).
If it, on the other hand, is moving there is a lot of thing you can try. We can come back to that later.
Good luck!

[blo]

Ok, here goes. I've rebuilt a -81 GS450 using the Haynes GS400/425 manual -> no problems, everything is the same, or can be deduced from common sense
I found that the cam chain tensioner spring was a bit loose, this allowed the cam chain to "rattle" the tensioner, causing much of the sound you described.
When the bike is running, look at the big knurled knob behind the cylinders. It should NOT be moving. If it's not moving, check that the fastening screw on the opposite side is not screwed in (locking the plunger).
If it, on the other hand, is moving there is a lot of thing you can try. We can come back to that later.
Good luck!

[Anonymous]

HAZAH! Camchain noise.

1981 GS450L

The machine is as quiet now as any bike I have ever been close to. The change was so dramatic (really, it sounds like a new motor) I thought I'd restate the procedure.

Mostly because none of the instructions I found were all that clear to me, as I have no idea what I am doing. (First time doing any of this, learning as I go).

But let me be clear, I'd be dead without this website and the help from yous' guys'!

Camchain Tensioner Adjustment demystified.

I'll add to the lot, maybe a little clearer (maybe not).

0. Get a Clymer manual.
1. Loosen the lock nut for the set screw over on the left side of the tensioner.
2. Loosen, anticlockwise 1/4 (not more than 1/2 turn) only, the set screw.
3. Over on the right side, while slowly turning the crankshaft anticlockwise (backwards from running) with a 19mm socket or box (not the littler nut, see manual) also turn the knurled knob of the tensioner anticlockwise as far as it will go.

[Turning the crankshaft backwards puts the tension on the rearward side of the camchain, which allows plunger to be pushed back out during the anticlockwise rotation of the "knob". The tension is normally on the forward side.]

4. Now slowly rotate the crankshaft in the forward direction. The tension will now go to the forward side of the chain, and the rearward side will go slack. The plunger will automatically move in taking up that slack. The "knob" will also rotate forward as this happens. You needn't rotate it. If this doesn't happen, it's stuck and the tensioner assembly will have to be removed and "rebuilt".

5. Retighten the lock nut, start the machine and listen to the quiet.

How sweet it is.

Thanks again guys.

Sean