Starter motor not getting amps?

[Flyin' Low]

Anyone have ideas why my starter might be getting voltage but not power enough to spin it? I think this is my problem & here's why:

When I try to start the bike, all I get is a loud click from the relay. The battery is new, the lights are bright - they hardly dim when I try to start it. I confirmed that the same voltage at the battery was getting though to the starter lead when I pressed the button (and zero when I didn't). I thought that the problem was the starter itself, so (per other threads here) I took out the starter, opened it up, and cleaned the commutator contacts & replaced the brushes. The starter spins up when connected directly to the battery. But (even backed out of the engine so it has no load) it won't spin when I push the red button. What gives?

Thanks for any guesses or further troubleshooting suggestions.
Nick

[beby99]

Try jumping the contact points at the relay...if the starter spins than
you have a bad connecton at the start button.

[Flyin' Low]

Try jumping the contact points at the relay...if the starter spins than
you have a bad connecton at the start button.

The relay does click and voltage arrives at the starter motor lead when I press the button, though. Doesn't that mean the button part is alright, or am I missing something else?

Nick

[redliner1973]

If the relays internal contacts are worn/burned, not enough amperage will get to the starter. The relay will click, some voltage will go to the starter but not enough amperage to crank. replace the relay. Any 12volt type will work.

[BriTXbike]

One other thing to always consider is connections to the battery, grounds, solenoid, R/R, stator, start button, and connections in the light.

From what I have read in the past the copper connector in the solenoid could have become corroded and doesn't make a good connection. The jump test would alleviate the possibility. If anything it's not hard to touch both with a screwdriver.

[focus frenzy]

bad starter ground.

clean/replace ground cable from back of engine to battery.

[Flyin' Low]

Propflux, you nailed it on the head - jumping it with a screwdriver works.... and when I measured the resistance across the relay when it was supposedly closed, it was 10-12 ohms, low enough to show voltage on an open circuit, but way too much to allow sufficient current to spin the motor.

I am so excited to be able to ride again (even if it means carrying a bar of iron in my pocket until I get a new relay)! Between a new job and other complications, I haven't been able to troubleshot properly, and this has been dogging me since late June. Oh well, it was too hot to ride here anyhow - I just wish I hadn't had to take apart everything (especially the starter motor).

Thanks all. If anyone has sources better than BikeBandit for a new relay, I'd love to hear about it.

Nick

[beby99]

Thanks all. If anyone has sources better than BikeBandit for a new relay, I'd love to hear about it.

Any 12v relay will work....can get one where ever the sell lawnmowers.
Lowes...Home Depot...Sears...etc.

[jonr]

I replaced mine with a relay from AutoZone for a 1978 small block ford engine. It was $8. The mounting holes happened to line up perfectly on my 78 GS750. It's a bit larger than the factory suzuki, and if you're tight on space, go with the aforementioned lawn mower relay. They are about $11-12. The terminals on the mower relay will probably require little to no modification in the wiring either.

Previous thread on this one: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ighlight=relay
Jon

[redliner1973]

good! Now get your new relay, and get back to ridin' Enjoy!!