oh snap, jumped off a running car...

[snowbeard]

ok, musta smoked too much crack last night, wasn't thinking, I know better. :roll:

so I did it wrong this morning, jumped it with the car running. I tested the volts from the running car before, and it read about 13.7, I know, that doesn't mean there weren't too many amps on it... I went from the battery terminals.

so it started fine and I quickly disconnected it. it seems to be running fine, but on the way here it kind of sputtered a couple times, when I'd be running steady on the highway, about 4900 rpms, it would decelerate for a split second and then come back...

so did I fry something? what would be the first thing to go, and what would that then let get toasted...?

I do have a new/old reg/rect just waiting for something to go wrong, should I think about installing that now?


Thanks for helping the dipsh!t

[Billy Ricks]

The fact the car was running could be a problem. Hopefully the sputtering is just coincidence. The R/R would be the most likely thing to get damaged.

Here's the Suzuki test procedure for the R/R:

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.

[jimcor]

If the battery is not fully charged you'd be suprised at how poorly your bike will run. Hope that's your only problem.

[snowbeard]

the bike actually runs very well, and these drops in power were short and barely noticeable when compared to "running poorly", it's just that I'm used to "perfect" I was only jumping it because I do have a hard start in the cold, and it was suggested to try jumping it or trickle charging it for someone else...

so if I had actually fried anything do you think I would know it right away or would it maybe take some time with a blown R/R to do more systemic damage?

[jimcor]

I'd bet you didn't hurt it. But why not check the voltage at the battery at 5000 rpm and be sure. You can go along way on a marginal R/R. At least the way I understand it (and have done it). The trouble is when it finally gives up the ghost it takes the stator with it. Mine did in early September. Trouble is I noticed a few power anomalies and chose to ignore them. Ouch, $90 R/R $133 Stator $7 gasket.

Sandy Claws is gonna get me a volt meter to mount on the handlebars for Christmas.

[Tarbash 27]

GET A BATTERY TENDER AND KEEP IT HOOKED UP AT NIGHT. I ALWAYS HAVE A FRESH BATTERY IN THE MORNING. ITS ABOUT $20 TO BUY

[gsBert]

ya didnt hurt it, the bike will draw current from the car's system, the car wont push it in. and it won't draw more than it needs....

however, why did you need the boost in the first place?
did you check to make sure your bike was producing electricity? cuz if your bikes charging system aint making the juice you will see a deterioration in performance, up to when you need a boost again...

i ran a bike with a blown stator once for a few months until i could rewind it, needed an overnight battery charge every day, and felt gutless, but it had an autonomy of like 4-5 hours... (2 of the 3 stator wires were still pushing electricity through, the third was shorted)

[Dark Jedi]

ya didnt hurt it, the bike will draw current from the car's system, the car wont push it in. and it won't draw more than it needs....

however, why did you need the boost in the first place?

Pssst: he left the key on for a couple hours yesterday. No need to embarrass the poor guy anymore.

[snowbeard]

no, that was some other poor schmuck.

I have just been having a hard start in the cold, and thought it might be that my battery was tired, so I wanted to see if it would light up first try, or any differently than normal (i.e. normal cold morning start= pull airfilter squirt ether in box, two to three squirts, try starter. if fires, rev the he!! out of it for a second or two to get the fuel going, then unscrew throttle cable to hold the carbs open a touch for warmup and dressing for cold riding, if not, apply more ether. then squirt it in the bike again, repeat as necessary)

sometimes lately it would take six tries before it got started. it's most likely a carb problem, but I wanted to see if it might be in some part the battery. it did crank faster, but missed it's start the first try, got it the second.

today, after crashing on a coworker's couch and waking up to the rain that I didn't know was coming, she ran really rough, with the same surging as before I'll try some WD40 on the spark plug wires and see if it helps, but I just hope she'll get me home tonight!! :?

and it was running so well :roll:

[DaveDanger]

I'm picturing a co-worker running roughly and surging a little bit in the rain......

[snowbeard]

if only!!