ambitious undertaking

[Billy Ricks]

Don't just check for continuity, look for the following values.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

Hope you can follow what I am outlining here.

[Anonymous]

i tried that and got 0.L for ohms, that means infinite resistance which means they don't connect at all

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't get too hepped up about the RR yet. Your bike ought to start without it working as long as it is connected.

As I recall you took your bike off of the road because its outer windings fried. Since then you are having trouble with the solenoid and RR. Could it be that you've got some wiring mixed up? Your bike should have been ready to roll after swapping the rotor or at the very least been able to start if you had an incorrect diagnosis.

Your best bet at this point would be to put it back together as best as you can and then ask us why it won't start. From there we can help you start it and then diagnose your electrical problems.