Replaced the battery and choke cable, still having probs...

[adamd]

In part 1, the choke cable was seized and the battery was weak, bike got a jump from a car (not running) and ran then died. Would not go over 3500-4000k rpm. A lot of backfiring med loud.

So I replaced the battery and the cable and now the bike starts on it's own
The bike will continue to run, but again won't go very high in the rpm range. 4000-5000k rpm max. A lot of popping. The voltage is dropping on the battery and still no charging seems to be going on at the battery terminals.

Did the resistance test on the Stator, checked out. I did the AC test, I set my multimeter to 200 and I was getting a reading of 2.9 5.9.... It says I'm supposed to get at least 60... So even if I multiply my results by 10 I'm still under the 60v ... So is my stator shot? Should I also just replace the rectifier? Didn't test it but I hear they usually cause the stator failures. This stator was repaced with a used one last season.....

Thoughts?

[adamd]

bump...help

[83'GK]

Have you read the 'stator papers' on the homepage of this site?

[nabrams]

You've got two totally separate issues. Even with the charging system totally disconnected (but with a fully charged battery) the bike should rev up just fine for the first hour or so until the battery starts depleting.
So one issue is probably a carb or air leak issue. There is a chance it's a coil/ignition/pulse generator issue. Coils CAN fail slowly. I always thought it was either 100% good or not good at all, till I had a coil that was firing intermittently. I thought it was carb related until the plugs attached to that coil didn't fire at all. Then I realized that it WAS a coil problem all along.
Your stator is toast. I've never seen a stator go bad from a bad R/R (and I've seen several cases of bad R/R), but others seem to think that is possible.

[83'GK]

Your stator is toast. I've never seen a stator go bad from a bad R/R (and I've seen several cases of bad R/R), but others seem to think that is possible.

it will, if the regulator shorts all current directly to ground, the stator can heat up so much it will 'burn' out the windings. no different than say an electric motor that gets so loaded it wont turn anymore from the load, it heats up eventually and dies.

[adamd]

You've got two totally separate issues. Even with the charging system totally disconnected (but with a fully charged battery) the bike should rev up just fine for the first hour or so until the battery starts depleting.
So one issue is probably a carb or air leak issue. There is a chance it's a coil/ignition/pulse generator issue. Coils CAN fail slowly. I always thought it was either 100% good or not good at all, till I had a coil that was firing intermittently. I thought it was carb related until the plugs attached to that coil didn't fire at all. Then I realized that it WAS a coil problem all along.
Your stator is toast. I've never seen a stator go bad from a bad R/R (and I've seen several cases of bad R/R), but others seem to think that is possible.

Thank you, This is the direction I'm looking for. How do I measure the voltage at the coils?
I'll look for leaks too.

[nabrams]

Voltage at the coils can be perfect while the coil itself can be misfiring intermittently. Resistance of the coil (tested while detached) can be a tell-tale. Unfortunately, for a "slightly" malfunctioning coil, the resitstance test may pass, so having a "known good" coil to swap with is sometimes the only way to really test. There are plenty of posts to tell you how to check voltage at various critical points on the bike and resistance of coils. There are also numerous posts (some by me) about air/exhaust leaks and carb issues. Use the search feature. Once you learn how to use it well you'll have all the answers you need. I've learned 85% of what I know from the search feature on this forum and 10% from another great Honda forum, and 5% from experimentation.

[kalessin]

I'm not sure I understand your multimeter settings (i'd put it in the 200 volts AC range and test it in a wall outlet , but yes, you should get at least 70 volts AC when measuring on each possible pair of the three wires coming from the stator with the bike running and revved up to 5000rpm.

If you replace your stator, i'd strongly recommend replacing your regulator/rectifier. I like the Honda CX500 style where there's a voltage sense wire (brown) in addition to the three connections from the stator, plus 12vdc+ (red) and ground (green). With the sense wire attached to something handy like the 12vdc+ wire to the rear brake light switch, the regulator can sense what the system voltage is and adjust accordingly.

[adamd]

I can't get it to rev up to 5000, but That's what I think it was set at and I'm getting those numbers. ??

Wait, it's 200 v~... is that AC? Are you serious about the wall socket?

[adamd]

I can't get it to rev up to 5000, but That's what I think it was set at and I'm getting those numbers. ??

Wait, it's 200 v~... is that AC? Are you serious about the wall socket?

Nevermind, after a quick google and a lot of courage I'm getting 123v in the wall socket on that setting Hold crap is my stator shot. The connectors are quite corroded so I'll clean them and take another reading.

[kalessin]

Isn't electricity fun?

Cleaning connectors is important to current being able to get through. I've started using Radio Shack tuner cleaner on some connectors, or fine sandpaper if i can get to the contact area.

[Billy Ricks]

Isn't electricity fun?

Cleaning connectors is important to current being able to get through. I've started using Radio Shack tuner cleaner on some connectors, or fine sandpaper if i can get to the contact area.

You could just hardwire the stator and lose the terminals if they are that corroded. If you like the convenience of being able to unplug it then just replace the old terminals with something new. If they are that corroded it may very well be alot of your problem.