Needle Jet...different new one..PLEASE HELP!!!!

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  • speedzter2000
    • Feb 2026
    #1

    Needle Jet...different new one..PLEASE HELP!!!!

    I will attach pics...
    The one on the LEFT is the old one...it is shot, I can tell by playing around with it, and playing around with the new one..basically, the stealership told me the old one was shot (the needle has no "spring" to it) and the new one does..
    ANYWAY..... there is a "groove" that goes all the way around the first one, and this round clip and a piece that also goes around the "spring" part of the jet thing ... I cant explain it, maybe the pics can,
    The new one doesnt have it....should I be concerned?? What is this round clip like thing for??
    Please dont knock my pics, I'm not Ansel Adams...AND...I am learning these things...I'm doing the carb re-build myself!!
    Good for a female, huh??

    http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/speedzter2000/jet2.jpg


    http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j110/speedzter2000/jet1.jpg


    OH...how the heck am I going to get that new o-ring on there???
    Last edited by Guest; 05-06-2006, 08:31 PM.
    Tags: None
    • DimitriT
      Forum Guru
      Past Site Supporter
      • Sep 2005
      • 9897
      • USA
      #2
      Speedz, you've got yourself a needle valve there (not a jet). The retaining spring seems to come on some carbs and not others. The one's which don't have it use a little tab on the clamp which holds down the valve to the carb body. If the clamp on your carbs doesn't have the tab there won't be anything to hold the pin up when you flip the carbs around. If the spring comes off the old valve, maybe you can transfer it to the new one. Otherwise you need to call the stealership and have them order you the right one with the retaining spring.

      BTW, did you try replacing the o-rings on your old valves? They look rather flat and may be the reason your carbs where overflowing. Make sure you get new o-rings to go with your new valves.

        Comment

        • speedzter2000
          #3
          Thank you DimitriT for answering my question....
          Well, it's a loooong story how I got to this point... I have the o-rings coming to me from Robert Barr.
          The part # for the needle valve, (and from what I saw on the schematics labled this part # as): 13370-44500 on bikebandit. (see other comments about bikebandit.)
          The ONLY difference is that gosh darn groove!! ARGH!!
          I am going to get that "groove" cut, (so it can hold that retaining spring) at a local machine shop, get it done in 2 minutes.... it "looks" like I got the right one...???
          OK, I remember ordering needle VALVE...as opposed to jet,(like I posted)...and, I did get the valve.....like you said...

            Comment

            • lapls
              #4
              Hi,
              I also have the same needle valves on the kits I bought ( made by K&L ), I did not see the original ones yet since I am going to remove my carbs today but that doesn't bother me.. I will just make sure the floats are adjusted near the maximum level and that the stopping tab ( the one that stops the needle from falling out ) does not allow the float to go too far down when there is no fuel in the carb .

              Hope that helps..

              Sylvain
              GS650GL
              XS650SG

                Comment

                • KEITH KRAUSE
                  Forum Guru
                  Charter Member
                  GSResource Superstar
                  Past Site Supporter
                  • Oct 2002
                  • 8862
                  • Angeles Forest, So.Calif./Red rocks of Southern Utah.
                  #5
                  The new one would work but without the clip to hold the float valve in, you'll need some finger dexterity to hold it up there and slip the float assembly up and then insert the float pin. Kinda tricky if you haven't done it. Easy to lose parts if you don't put down a towel too.
                  The best fix here is to get the genuine Mikuni float valve. More expensive but generally better quality and it should be identical to the old one.
                  ALSO, the new one appears shorter than the old?? If it is, this will really throw off the fuel level and cause possible overflowing. The tab adjustment on the float may not be able to allow for the shorter valve. Just looks like trouble either way. Order the genuine part or really check/compare if you go with anything else.
                  Other option is to try replacing just the flattened o-ring, re-assemble and see if that was the leak problem.
                  And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                  Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                    Comment

                    • speedzter2000
                      #6
                      Hi Keith Krause and lapls...
                      Thanks for the hints...
                      The problem is that I cannot get a genuine Mikuni needle valve I've searched and searched, and even the dealer told me they are not made anymore. So, I went on bikebandit to get it. The package it came in is a SGP.It doesnt look much shorter, it's just the angle of the pic.
                      I am going to take the new one to a machine shop and have them cut the groove into the new one. I really have no other alternatives. I dont want to monkey around with something that just isnt 100% right, and have to go and tear the carbs down again...
                      And I thought this was going to be easy

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