Jet sizes on a GS750EN with pods

[KEITH KRAUSE]

What is considered the "top"? 4th position counting down from A or from B in this image?
They are at position 2 from A as of now...

When I say "from the top", I mean from the top of the jet needle. A stock jet needle has 5 positions to place the e-clip. As you lower the e-clip, the needle raises, which richens the mixture.
It's generally best to take some plug reads before making adjustments but since you have the carbs apart...
For whatever reason, there seems to be some conflicting info as to what position the factory places the e-clip on your 750. I've seen info saying position 2 AND 3.
In your case and without benefit of plug reads, I'd say your stock position is #2, so you'd want to lower the e-clip to the 3rd, or middle position. One position richer should work. That will hopefully be right for your pods/stock exhaust. Be sure to re-install the thicker and thinner stock plastic spacers in exact factory order.
You MUST do a good bench synch whenever you disturb the jet needles on the VM carbs. The bench synch should be followed by a synch with a vacuum tool. Otherwise, you'll probably get innaccurate/uneven plug reads.

[PoPr]

Sorry, have tried the search-thingy, but they're all CV-stuff.
How do I synchronize my VM-carbs? I've heard of small plugs on the inlet-rubbers, but I dont seem to have any???

[PoPr]

I did see small hexagon screws on the aluminium after the inlet rubbers (towards engine), are those the ones I should use?

If I'm checking, say, #3 and #1 carb, should I remove the screws on #2 and #4, or leave them be while I', checking #3 and #1?

[PoPr]

btw, this is my synch-tool I have made...

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I did see small hexagon screws on the aluminium after the inlet rubbers (towards engine), are those the ones I should use?

If I'm checking, say, #3 and #1 carb, should I remove the screws on #2 and #4, or leave them be while I', checking #3 and #1?

Yes, those are the bolts you remove. Then you install the threaded adapter tubes with an o-ring or rubber washer tightened snug with a nut to avoid leaks, then your tubing to the synch tool.
Any cylinder not being synched, must have it's bolt tightened to avoid intake leaks.
I don't like the idea of a tool that only synchs two at a time. When synching the regular way, all four at a time, you can see how even minor adjustments at one cylinder can effect the others at times. You won't see this to the same degree when seeing only two at a time. Also, after final torquing of the throttle shaft holder nut (3.5 ft/lb) it's easy to compromise (lose) your setting. You'll be doing half a job, then the other half. You'll have to try to match each set of reads/levels at separate times. You'll have to rely on memory or marks. If you get any condensation (water-gaps) mixed in your lines, that'll be even worse.
If you did previous vacuum synchs on four cylinder bikes, you'd know what I'm trying to say and how your tool complicates the procedure and getting good results.
A simple, but good tool is made by Motion Pro for about $40. I've used this or similar for 30 years with good results.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

By the way, a good bench synch will make the vacuum synch MUCH quicker and easier. If the bench synch is poor enough or no bench synch, many owners end up killing the battery just trying to start the bike.
Also, as with any synch... First warm up, then adjust the side air screws for best idle/rpm using 1,000 rpm as a base. Your bike should have the side air screws set initially about 1 1/2 turns out before start up. Fine tune them.
Then, do your vacuum synch.
I made a detailed post on bench synching the VM carbs at another thread, but I didn't save it. If interested in it, do a search. The thread is in the technical section, authored by "Hoomgar", title is something like: "GS1K re-jet, poor fuel mileage, attn Keith Krause".