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    Jetting for mufflers

    Good Morning.
    Does anyone recognise what mufflers these are? 4 into 2. The carb's are running stalk jets presently and these are fairly open pipes. (A bit loud.)


    Any recomondations for jetting?

    #2
    Sorry, no help on the pipes or jets, but I LIKE the pipes!

    Comment


      #3
      What leads you to believe you need to change jetting?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Beemer
        Good Morning.
        Does anyone recognise what mufflers these are? 4 into 2. The carb's are running stalk jets presently and these are fairly open pipes. (A bit loud.)
        http://www.techimo.com/photo/showpho.../500/ppuser/68

        Any recomondations for jetting?
        I don't know what pipes those are but they appear to be freer flowing. If so, the jetting will be effected. The bluing header at #4 suggests the mixture is lean. I assume the stock air box still has its lid?? Carbs must be clean and no intake leaks before jetting tests. Also, check timing and valve clearances. The carbs must also be vacuum synched to get uniform/acurrate plug reads.
        Take some full, 1/3 and minimal throttle position plug tests. Do what the plugs/performance say.
        Just for your GENERAL info, a pipe like that typically requires maybe two full sizes up on the mains. Your stock mains are #95. So that would mean 105, if not larger. This is strictly a guess and plug reads will help you decide what to try first.
        The jet needles may have to be raised too. 1/3 test will tell you.
        Simple richer pilot fuel screw (underneath) adjustments may be all you need for the pilot circuit jetting. For just a pipe, an additional 1/2 turn out may be all that's needed. Fine tuning will be necessary. Adjust side air screws for best idle.
        And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
        Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

        Comment


          #5
          Hey Keith.
          The pic is from a few weekends ago when I picked up the bike. The blueing problem has been fixed with either the plug replacement or cutting back the spark plug leads a 1/4" or so and resetting the boots or removing an inline fuel filter. Confirmed that the pet cock is working good with vacuum and all, although valve is glued into the RUN position. New fuel line. New points and condensers installed a couple of weeks ago. Checked and corrected timing with a timing light and re-gapped the points. Autosol removed the blue and left the pipes a nice light gold colour for the first 4" leaving the ports. Removed the carb’s and cleaned up the bowl, (Spray carb cleaner used.) main, and pilot screws and holes. (A flush job) I didn't remove the floats. I noticed a 95 on the main but didn't really pay attention. Pretty sure I saw a 95. I didn't look to see what the floats were set on either. I was in hurry to see what kind of bench mark I had set with just catching up on some much needed maintenance.

          Describing the sound the mufflers are half loud. Not an open pipe but a nice guttural sound. Definitely freer then a stock pipe. 1/4 throttle makes people turn and take notice. :shock:

          I'm driving the bike but it jerks at low speed. 30 mph, 2nd gear at around a steady 1800 rpm. More or less. The ride needs to be smoothed out for idle speeds just after releasing the clutch lever.

          Chain and sprockets are new with a .8 slap. Tomorrow after work I'm going to install new intake O-rings. I'm going out now to remove the carbs and deal with the float position and jetting for these pipes. (It would have been nice if who ever installed these mufflers jetted for them too!)

          I doubt if I'll go to K&N's although they sure would be easier to get at the carb's. That air box really makes it a tight squeeze removing the carb's.

          Thanks for the help Keith. I'll be back.

          Comment


            #6
            Oops! Forgot.

            I finally got the bike to show that it has a power band. In the beginning I couldn't get the bike over 4500rpm without it powering out and back firing at gear changes. This behaviour is gone but now I'm trying to get the power band to be quite a bit more powerful.

            In 5th I fully rotate the throttle, the bike lags.
            If I back off a bit I get more power but no where near what I should be getting. In 5th gear the bike doesn't take off like it should at just before 5000rpm and up to 8500. It peaks at around 6200rpm and doesn't pick up speed any more. Just maintains the speed.

            The stuttering at low speed/rpm and the petering out of the power band at an early stage of the fun and the loudness of the pipes leads me to believe that there is a jetting issue at hand.

            I'm going to cut back the leads a bit more and I'll buy extensions if I have to.

            Do extensions rob any sparking power?

            Comment


              #7
              I don't think it's your spark plug wires. Listen to Keith and jet with throttle chops. The plugs will tell the tale. I'm 99% sure you're lean on your main jet and your needle circuit.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #8
                P.S Really nice looking bike and pipes. Looks just like mine with better pipes.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yup! 95 main and 15 pilot.

                  After my description and finding stock jetting on board, should I still go with 105 main? What should the pilot change to?

                  I'll have one shot at this tomorrow sinse I get home just before the dealership closes. Quick shower and off to the dealership.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Beemer
                    Yup! 95 main and 15 pilot.

                    After my description and finding stock jetting on board, should I still go with 105 main? What should the pilot change to?

                    I'll have one shot at this tomorrow sinse I get home just before the dealership closes. Quick shower and off to the dealership.
                    If the ends of the plug leads are clean, leave them be.
                    Does this bike idle quite a bit higher from cold to hot? Some of your symptoms could be from an intake leak. I always recommend changing the manifold o-rings if the carbs are out. Incorrect valve clearances can hurt the breathing and your top speed. A vacuum synch should be done as I said before re-jetting.
                    After reading your latest posts, I'm gonna say 107.5 for the mains. Just a guess of course. I'd stay with the stock pilot jets for now and just try richening the pilot fuel screws underneath, maybe an additional 1/2 turn initially. Then adjust the side air screws for best rpm using the highest rpm method. Don't forget to take 1/3 throttle tests for the jet needles. The jet needle circuit is the one you spend the most time riding on.
                    And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                    Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      My idle, cold to hot rises a little bit. 200 rpm or so.

                      The leads were suspect at the beginning of all this. I cut them back and it did help clean up the back firing problem 50% or so. Once I changed out the plugs, the back firing went away completely.
                      ...and just try richening the pilot fuel screws underneath, maybe an additional 1/2 turn initially.
                      Presently I've turned these out to 1.5 turns.

                      All that has been suggested will be done after work today. I have O-rings in hand. I need the jets.

                      On another note, the hose leading from the fuel gage sensor on the tank is presently hooked into the vacuum nipple on #2 carb. Is this correct?

                      Thanks again for all the help.
                      Last edited by Guest; 06-24-2006, 09:39 AM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Beemer

                        On another note, the hose leading from the fuel gage sensor on the tank is presently hooked into the vacuum nipple on #2 carb. Is this correct?

                        Thanks again for all the help.

                        No, thats an overflow or leak tube. Should just be routed down below engine.

                        Vacuum from petcock attachs to #2 carb.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by beby99
                          No, thats an overflow or leak tube. Should just be routed down below engine.

                          Vacuum from petcock attachs to #2 carb.
                          As beby says, the gas gauge overflow line should be routed so any gas would spill out and away from the motor.
                          With it hooked up to the #2 float bowl VENT nipple, carbs 1 and 2 didn't have adequate bowl venting. Minor (at least) fuel starvation would occur. The correct vent line is 3/16" and approx' 18" long.
                          On your VM carbs, the nipple at carb #3 is the ONLY vacuum source. CV carbs have the vacuum at #2.
                          Also, the nipple at carb #4 is for venting carbs 3 and 4. Make sure both vent lines are connected and routed with NO KINKS under the seat along side the air box.
                          And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                          Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Nice Looking Bike!!!!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Thanks for the hose routing beby. It's been bugging me.

                              Deesel. Thank you. Best $500.00 I've spent in a while.

                              I picked up 105's, 107.5's and 110's. I wanted to make sure I covered all possibilities since the bike shop is closed till Tue. It's 95F outside at the moment so I'll wait for the heat to settle down in a bit. I really don't want to leave the A/C of the house.

                              Hey wait! No gas in the carb's. I can bring them inside....lol

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