Should I change my clutch plates?

[Anonymous]

Hi guys,
My GS 750 77' has done about 105.000 Km. Thats alot, I know. But I have no idea whether the engine has been renewed (it has been repainted though, and I have detected some new gaskets). It runs very fine, but I have clutch slip problem. Until I bought it 4 months ago it had been sitting for 7 years.
Whenever I speed up hard the tachometer jumps up without the bike speeding up and then falls down again after a second or two. Only then the bike speeds up.
I was thinking about trying a different type of oil, but I have used 2 og 3 different kinds of oil and all the same. Maybe all of those were bad for the bike?Is it realistic that the cluth is slipping because of oil additives or whatever it is that is causing the problem?
I am thinking that I should change the clutch plates and springs once and for all, what do you think?
I have never tried it before, is it difficult to change plates and springs? Does anyone have a how-to-change-clutch-and-springs guide? (or just some good advice)...
Cheers,
Kroisos

[Hap Call]

I bet only the clutch plates need to be changed. Get a manual and it will have step-by-step instructions on how to do it. You will need a replacement gasket for the clutch cover, new plates, and enough oil to change the oil since you will drain it to get to the plates. I changed my plates about a year ago and it took me about 45 minutes so it is not a lengthy job.

When you do have it apart, check the metal drive plates for bluing and warping from overheating. If you find signs of overheating on the drive plates, replace them.

If the bike sat for a long period of time the plates may be saturated, causing the slippage.

Hap

[Anonymous]

Usully that symptom means just changing the fiber disks--Dont forget to inspect the metal plates as Hap described. Changing the springs will be a waste of money in most cases. Be carefull when tightening the bolts on the clutch cover--make sure the gasket surfaces are good and clean--take your time if this is the first time and as Hap said it's an easy job

[Anonymous]

While on this topic... is it a good idea to ad another plate and fiber disc on a fairly powerful 1100E? In a box of parts I have some extra plates and discs. Just curious.


Jim

[Anonymous]

While on this topic... is it a good idea to ad another plate and fiber disc on a fairly powerful 1100E? In a box of parts I have some extra plates and discs. Just curious.


Jim

You may not like the way it shifts with the added plate. If you are concerned about it holding then in that case, you would be better off with the heavy duty springs and maintaining things the way the engineers(yuck) designed it. Also with the heavy duty springs you have the option of putting in 2 or 4 or changing all 6 of the standard springs to heavy duty. Buy yourself a few gaskets and the HD springs and have fun. If the bike is stock i still believe that the stock setup is more than adequite. 8)

[Anonymous]

While on this topic... is it a good idea to ad another plate and fiber disc on a fairly powerful 1100E? In a box of parts I have some extra plates and discs. Just curious.


Jim

You may not like the way it shifts with the added plate. If you are concerned about it holding then in that case, you would be better off with the heavy duty springs and maintaining things the way the engineers(yuck) designed it. Also with the heavy duty springs you have the option of putting in 2 or 4 or changing all 6 of the standard springs to heavy duty. Buy yourself a few gaskets and the HD springs and have fun. If the bike is stock i still believe that the stock setup is more than adequite. 8)

Cams, smoothbores, V&H pipe... I havnt pulled it apart to see what all is done. 2nd gear and up slips a lil when passing 9K or so. And it has a brand new, only about 4-5 thousand miles, clutch kit.
May need to look into springs.


Jim

[Anonymous]

My 1100e has the clutch setup with 10 discs. I used 2 tricks to beef it up in addition to a modified basket setup. One was the HD springs-all 6 --and amother was to use one plate from the 9 disk setup . THEY ARE THICKER BY A FEW THOUSANTHS. I put the heavier plate in the first position in the outer basket. The one that is held in place with the wire retainer.

[massakins]

There is one other area to check before assuming the slipping clutch is due to worn plates, and it is especially prevalent in this case where a bike has been stored a long time. Verify that the clutch cable is not binding or dragging sufficiently to prevent the springs from compressing the plates. If the cable is binding and/or misadjusted it can feel normal but not have sufficient free play at the motor end. The short chrome arm should have a small amount of free play when the lever is released. Check this with the handlebars turned through their entire range of motion. Sounds far fetched but I've seen new plates put in more than once when the true culprit was a bad cable. Costs nothing to check.

[Hap Call]

I can tell you from personal experiance that if massakins suggests something it is a good idea to do it!

Hap

[Dink]

one other suggestion before you go the expense of clutch disks.
Have you actually confirmed by listening that the engine is increasing revs without accelerating, the tachos on some of these bikes lie with them showing an increase in revs without an actual increase occuring.
Dink

[Anonymous]

Yea, I looked at the tach after hearing the revs spike in the upper RPMs.
I checked the adjustment at the lever... will check it at the other end too.


Jim