I have a 79 GS750E, and just did the 530 conversion on. I did a 16 tooth front, and 50 tooth rear sprocket. If I install the 530 front sprocket with the 6mm spacer between the trans and the sprocket, the sprocket is way out, out far enough where the sprocket is only half on splines. If I install the sprocket without the spacer and check sprocket alignment with a straightedge, it is perfect. Obviously this is how I will leave it. My question I suppose is more of a curiosity thing. Why is my bike different than all the others that have done the conversion? Am I supposed to put the spacer between the nut and sprocket?
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I haven't done this conversion yet, but the 6mm spacer figures to go outside the sprocket. The new 530 sprocket is thinner and needs the spacer to allow the nut to tighten down correctly.And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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I wonder if I have some sort of aftermarket nut on mine then, it has a recess built into it to allow it to tighten down over the splines. Oh well, I bought the spacer, I might as well use itOriginally posted by KEITH KRAUSE
Thanks for the quick reply keith :-DComment
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Your bike is no different than anyone elses. The order of installation is sprocket, 6mm spacer, splined lockwasher, sprocket nut.
Although your sprocket nut has a recess in it to allow it to tighten down over the splined washer, the recess is not deep enough to allow it to tighten down properly to compensate for the reduction in thickness when converting from a 630 sprocket to a 530 sprocket. You must use the spacer. Do not ride the bike without the 6mm spacer installed in the correct order.
Earl
Originally posted by quiktrpLast edited by earlfor; 07-16-2006, 01:10 AM.Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.Comment
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Yep, as always Earl got it right.Originally posted by earlfor
Even at 2:06 in the morning:shock:
What a night owl\\
/
Doug aka crag antler
83GS1100E, gone
2000 Kawasaki Concours
Please wear ATGATT
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Hey!Originally posted by crag antlerYep, as always Earl got it right.
Even at 2:06 in the morning:shock:
What a night owl\\/ I got it right too. And more than three hours before Earl too.
And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!Comment
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Not trying to be a pain in the ass, but if I install in that order there is no spline left for the lockwasher to spline onto. It's onto the threaded portion of the shaft by at least 1/8". This is correct? I have done some reading up, and it seems others have some sort of rubber spacers on the front sprocket. Mine did not have this. It was a steel sprocket, with no holes drilled in it, with a relatively long steel spacer between the trans and sprocket. I guess I just don't see how the lockwasher would be effective without splining onto the shaft.Your bike is no different than anyone elses. The order of installation is sprocket, 6mm spacer, splined lockwasher, sprocket nut.
Although your sprocket nut has a recess in it to allow it to tighten down over the splined washer, the recess is not deep enough to allow it to tighten down properly to compensate for the reduction in thickness when converting from a 630 sprocket to a 530 sprocket. You must use the spacer. Do not ride the bike without the 6mm spacer installed in the correct order.
Earl
The bike is out of commission for the next week or so, so if it is incorrect right now it is no big deal to fix.Comment
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ok, I just found a pic of a "regular" 630 sprocket. It has a raised boss built into the side of it, like a built in spacer I guess. Mine did not have this. It was flat on both sides, and only had 630 stamped into the rear of the sprocket. I held the two sprockets up to each other, and thickness variance is negligable. Really the only difference I could discern was that the new sprocket had the teeth closer together, and the diameter was smaller.
Does this all sound like standard conversion still? It sounds like I'll just have to mic it out and make sure I have enough crush on the sprocket.
Thanks for the input so far guys, keep it coming please
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Just found this:
530 5/8 inch pitch, 3/8 inch wide
630 3/4 inch pitch, 3/8 inch wide
Does this mean that the sprocket teeth are the same thickness also? The only difference in thickness between the sprockets being the built in spacers?
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Well, as I said before, I haven't done this conversion so it's all Greek to me though it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
I know there are a few threads here about the conversion that have a lot of info if you do a search.
My understanding of this whole fit situation is the new 530 sprocket is thinner than the 630 sprocket. How much thinner, I don't know exactly but you would obviously want a certain thickness spacer that, when combined with the new sprocket, equals the same thickness as a standard 630 sprocket. Then everything should line up and the splined lockwasher should fit correctly and do its job. I've heard about the 6mm spacers and I assume they're correct for these conversions. Never heard of any other thickness being used.
Sounds like you have some aftermarket sprocket but I don't know why you're having this problem. I also wonder if that "long" spacer between the sprocket and motor you mention is a stock part or it's creating this problem.
Could you show a good pic of the set up? Maybe we can figure it out easier? You sure don't want to make an installation mistake and lose a sprocket and chain while riding.Last edited by KEITH KRAUSE; 07-17-2006, 12:48 AM.And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!Comment
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So?
Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSEHey! I got it right too. And more than three hours before Earl too.
Well, Keith, you ought to know by now, that doesn't count!:-D :-D1980 GS1100E....Number 15!
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Maybe once you remove the 630 sprocket, you also remove the oem spacer and replace it with the new one, then install the 530 sprocket and hardware ???
I'd double check with the company you it bought from just to make sure.
How about Hines on his Harley 8O1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82Comment
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Your bike is different. You don't need the spacer. It is not used on the 1977-79 GS750's.
It is required on the 1980-83 GS750's, but not your bike.
That explains why the spacer doesn't appear to fit your bike. It is not the correct part for your bike.
My information comes from the Sun and JT sprocket catalogs.Last edited by Guest; 07-17-2006, 03:05 PM.Comment
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Oh, boy
Oh, boy, now you've done it...that's gonna make a few people unhappy!1980 GS1100E....Number 15!Comment
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:-D:-DOriginally posted by BoondocksYour bike is different. You don't need the spacer. It is not used on the 1977-79 GS750's.
It is required on the 1980-83 GS750's, but not your bike.
That explains why the spacer doesn't appear to fit your bike. It is not the correct part for your bike.
My information comes from the Sun and JT sprocket catalogs.
I knew I wasn't crazy! Thanks for all the help guys, hopefully the next goofball doing the swap with this bike will see this thread and save himself some trouble. I would have saved the questions and just measured, but the bike is in pieces at my parents house 20 miles away and it's a pain in the butt to go there for every little thing. So I bug you guys \\/
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