why gsxr front end swap?

[skip]

Ive read alot of people doing front end swaps with gsxr's Im wondering what the benifits are. Not somthing Im considering doing right away but..........................................skip

[biker66]

In one word:
17"wheelbetterhandlinggreatbrakesmoreadjustmentpos sibilitiesthelooks

[Gerry]

In one word:
17"wheelbetterhandlinggreatbrakesmoreadjustmentpos sibilitiesthelooks

Thats one big word and about sums it up
Gerry

[mcycle-nut]

In one word:
17"wheelbetterhandlinggreatbrakesmoreadjustmentpos sibilitiesthelooks

Does it not make for less ground clearance

[Gerry]

Does it not make for less ground clearance

At this point I don't think so. Their is a difference of 2 1/2" from the stock to the shorter gsxr. Put on a 17" wheel (orig. is 16) and drop the forks down in the triple clamp an inch or an inch and a half (changing from clip-ons to bars mounted on the top triple clamp) and you will have the same ride height. Billy Ricks also points out That the gsxr forks are much more solid and won't have the travel the originals have so your actual ride height should be higher when dealing with bumps in the road. I'll let you know in the end because I put a tape along the front end to measure the height for before and after.

Gerry

[Billy Ricks]

Put on a 17" wheel (orig. is 16) and drop the forks down in the triple clamp an inch or an inch and a half (changing from clip-ons to bars mounted on the top triple clamp) and you will have the same ride height.

The GSX-R clipons fit below the top clamp so the top of the tubes fit flush with the top of the clamp. You might be able to drop them about 3/8" without getting past the pinch bolt, but I wouldn't go any further than that. The 17" wheel with a 120/70 looks huge compared to stock. Just make sure you set the sag up on it when you get everything mounted. It will help keep from dragging anything. The only time I ever drug anything was over a series of big bumps while braking hard. The header scraped the tops of the bumps. I'm not sure it wouldn't have even with the stock front end. I did learn the front end stayed planted in those conditions and damping seemed just about right.

[lhanscom]

So is that what happened to those headers? I was kinda wondering how you could have done that.

[Billy Ricks]

Guilty as charged. At least it's underneath. With a fresh coat of something it will be sharp again. Between the exhaust and the jet kit you should feel your bike perk up a bit.

[Anonymous]

I'm not sure, but I think the '93 inverteds are shorter yet. I plan on making some of this up on the rear suspension by raising it a bit. My stock 11000 sat high in the front and low in the back. Raising the rear should help with the header clearance problem a bit.

[Gerry]

The GSX-R clipons fit below the top clamp so the top of the tubes fit flush with the top of the clamp.

The original forks come through the triple clamp an inch on the 1150. when mounting the gsxr flush I will gain an inch so the difference in the forks are only 1 1/2 inches. Then add in the 17" rim and maybe dropping the forks a tad in the triple clamp you would end up with the same or close to the same ride height. Not that I was going to drop it in the triple clamp but the option might be there if it is needed.

My old yosh pipe had, well maybe a couple scrapes in it, don't know how though . The new hindle doesn't have any yet . Could change this summer though. :twisted: :twisted:

Gerry

[Billy Ricks]

I'm not sure, but I think the '93 inverteds are shorter yet. I plan on making some of this up on the rear suspension by raising it a bit.

I'm toying with the idea of a ride heighth adjuster in the rear. I'am thinking about having two aluminum plates made up with mating grooves and ribs, for want of a better term. It would just be a matter of loosening a few bolts to raise and lower the rear.

[Anonymous]

Billy, Yea - ride height adjustment would be nice. On the 1100, my plan is to first find a good ride height. Then I can get the correct position on the link to mount. I will probably have to rotate the tabs (formerly centerstand) to get a good link position. Then once all of that is set, I can find the position for the top if the mono-shock. A lot of positioning and all done with just a frame - no engine. I may be able to adjust the ride height in the rear with a preload adjustment - but if you use too much of it, then your rear suspension gets too stiff.

[Anonymous]

Progressive Suspension works great

I just upgraded my 750EX with Progressive Springs and Shocks. Also put a fork brace on it and the handling was Greatly improved. It corners well and feels comfortable on highways. Much easier than complete re-fit.

[Gerry]

Re: Progressive Suspension works great

I just upgraded my 750EX with Progressive Springs and Shocks. Also put a fork brace on it and the handling was Greatly improved. It corners well and feels comfortable on highways. Much easier than complete re-fit.

I did all that a few years back, this is just the next step to improve the handling of the bike (me hopes). The 1150 has a 16" front tire and changing the front to a 17" will allow me to use a bigger variety of newer rubber. The bigger forks should stiffen up the front end for better all around performance compared to stock. And to upgrade the brakes is just a bolt on.

Gerry

[Billy Ricks]

Gerry,
You are going to feel a huge difference in handling even just doing the front. Once you get radials at both ends it's not going to even feel like the same bike.