Replacing the CV carb sync screw+locknut with something better

[Guest]

To attach a nut permanently to threaded rod, wouldn't a tack weld work well?

[49er]

To attach a nut permanently to threaded rod, wouldn't a tack weld work well?

Yes. You screw the nut 2/3 on and do a plug weld with Mig or Tig welds. Grind the weld flush for a nice appearnace. If you used stainless treaded rods and nuts you would get a better looking finish. A slot could then be cut into the head for those who preferred to use a screw driver for their adjustments.

[t3rmin]

Yes. You screw the nut 2/3 on and do a plug weld with Mig or Tig welds. Grind the weld flush for a nice appearnace. If you used stainless treaded rods and nuts you would get a better looking finish. A slot could then be cut into the head for those who preferred to use a screw driver for their adjustments.

Anyone with a welder care to whip up a bunch of these?? ;-)

Seriously, though, before you spend too much time on this, try taking the locknut off and putting a drop of blue loctite on. So far so good for me.

[49er]

Anyone with a welder care to whip up a bunch of these?? ;-)

Seriously, though, before you spend too much time on this, try taking the locknut off and putting a drop of blue loctite on. So far so good for me.

Yeah, loctite is easier.
I just checked the screw size on a set of 36mm Mikuni Slingshot carbs.
They are M4 x .5 x 12mm long and have a combo philips/scew drive blade head with a coil spring that is 7mm OD x 9mm L x 5mm ID. No washers required with this spring.
These springs may be suitable for the 5mm bolts? Or, for those wishing to make a project of it, you could weld in the holes on the sync tabs and drill and tap to the M4 screws. You may break a tap when re-threading though.
I have a scource for taps if anyone wishes to go this way.
I would try the blue loctite first and then use the threaded M5 rods if the loctite didn't hold.