Throttle Question

[Guest]

The GK was designed for touring and has all kinds of extra features, including cruise control.

The first bunch of times I pulled the throttled, it snapped back quite nicely. I liked that it's a wee bit tight to pull (not so loose like my friend's bike where I reached for the brakes and gave it throttle accidentally from my gloves tugging on it, so for me that is good) Nice snap back each time. Then I fiddled with the cruise control. Hold s the throttle in place seemingly like it should. Turn the cruise lever off, and then the throttle isn't snapping back anymore. Fiddle some more (with the cruise lever as well as pulling back and pushing throttle forward, which goes back without forcing, but it moves slowly and with some light effort) and eventually it goes back to being the nice obedient throttle that snaps back smoothly.

So far, it sems pretty consistent that when I mess with the cruise, the throttle stops snapping back until I mess with it fora while. It won't break my heart to remove the cruise control, but what else should I look for? Any tips on removing the cruise control, or might there be a nice fix for this? I can go out and take some close up pics if that helps any. Thanks!

[Boondocks]

The so-called "cruise control" is just a rudimentary friction binder that locks the throttle grip in place. If it's too tight, it may bind a bit even when it is released. This is more likely to be noticeable when the bike isn't running. In actual use, the vibration of the running bike at speed will probably allow the throttle spring to return to the off postion without undue binding.

If it still seems to bind, the initial friction of the cruise control can be adjusted with a small socket head screw (probably in front). This is the way that mine works and I assume yours is the same. Loosening the screw a bit will prevent excess binding, or you can adjust it to your preference.

I wouldn't remove it, as it can be handy at times.

[MissFabulous]

Thanks! I don't want to remove it unless it's faulty, but at the same time, if it becomes a safety risk, it can totally go.

From what little I understand on cars, cruise control is based on a vacuum system and this is obviously more of a latching feature that locks that throttle in place. Any pics, schematics, cutaway pics or anything that splains how they work that you know of? I've looked it over pretty well and I don't really understand how it's doing what it does. Any lubing required or possiblility of worn down parts? It seems like pretty flimsy, loose plastic components. I appreciate your input!

[hwb120240]

Most of those just clamp the throttle handle in place until you release it. Nothing fancy, just friction.

[chef1366]

Mine sometimes starts to squeak and bind a little. I just use a little WD-40 and all is well.

[Boondocks]

Thanks! I don't want to remove it unless it's faulty, but at the same time, if it becomes a safety risk, it can totally go.

From what little I understand on cars, cruise control is based on a vacuum system and this is obviously more of a latching feature that locks that throttle in place. Any pics, schematics, cutaway pics or anything that splains how they work that you know of? I've looked it over pretty well and I don't really understand how it's doing what it does. Any lubing required or possiblility of worn down parts? It seems like pretty flimsy, loose plastic components. I appreciate your input!

Right, it isn't a true cruise control that automatically maintains a constant speed and is automatically deactivated by the brakes as used on cars. That's why I said "so-called" cruise control, because it reallly is a misnomer. It basically just a cheesy, flimsy, loose plastic throttle lock that works by levering a plastic "trigger" to bind the handgrip. Think of it as a really inefficient and ineffective brake that barely works, but can stick when it isn't needed.

There are really no parts to wear. If you lube it with WD-40, it will loosen it but then if it's too loose you will have to wait for the lube to wear off. I would lube it only as a last resort, as the plastic is fairly slippery to begin with. Adjusting the initial tension of the clamping band around the throttle with the socket screw should give you a decent compromise that will allow the throttle to free up properly.

[Pharkmeh]

keep it Shirl

sometimes you need both hands to light a cigarette when your riding a bike.... :-D apparently....:shock:

[chef1366]

Mine is all metal hence the WD advice. Didn't know it was plastic.

[MissFabulous]

Mine is all metal hence the WD advice. Didn't know it was plastic.

Yeah - it's a really flimsy feeling plastic lever with three positions (off on and ?? more on? less on? dunno... it sure seems to stay on...) to the left of the throttle, mounted to the bar. The plastic lever that sticks out of the plastic housing is very wiggly. The more I question it, the more my gut is telling me to ditch it. I just don't trust it. I could always put it back on later, and I'll keep it... mostly because due to safety concerns, I don't think I'd feel comfortable selling it or even giving it away.

While the throttle issue really appears to be related to this item, is there anything else on the throttle I might want to check? I'm going on the assumption that if there is something wrong with the spring, the problem wouold be more constant and not so intermittent. Could I be overlooking something else?

[QuaiChangKane]

It's really a crude device, and I'd imagine it's just poorly adjusted or dirty. They're pretty flimsy and wobbly even when installed/adjusted properly - that's why you can buy the cheaper ones for just a few bucks.


It's arguable whether or not a throttle lock is a safety issue unto itself. If properly adjusted, it just places enough of a hold on the throttle to keep it from closing, but a very light pressure can close it. They're actually handy for more than setting a crusing speed on the highway - they're really useful for allowing you to remove your right hand from the grip to shake out a cramp, adjust your gear, adjust your mirror, etc.


But while you're at it, especially with a bike from an unknown PO, I'd remove the throttle, choke, clutch, speedo, and tach cables to thoroughly inspect and lubricate them. Shouldn't take more than an hour or two, and a little work ahead of time could save a lot of time stranded on the side of the road.

If any of the cables are frayed, rough to pull, or have noticeable rust inside the end caps, ditch 'em and buy new ones. They're pretty cheap and will last a long time if properly cared for.


-Q!

[nert]

Everyone who has posted a reply does not seem to have a GK...
Maybe what is standard on the GK is not the same as the rest of have???
I have a plastic throttle lock on my 82'gs1100glz. It works great, no sticking, no problems, and it does come in handy, even if just to flex my wrist a bit.
Maybe you can spot us a photo.?

[MissFabulous]

[quote=nert;541864]Everyone who has posted a reply does not seem to have a GK...
Maybe what is standard on the GK is not the same as the rest of have???
I have a plastic throttle lock on my 82'gs1100glz. It works great, no sticking, no problems, and it does come in handy, even if just to flex my wrist a bit.
Maybe you can spot us a photo.?[/quote]

How bout three? Shoulda just put pics up to begin with!

Anyway the lighting was weird so they look like metal but they are not - they are BLACK (modestly oxidized) PLASTIC. There is a lot of play not just with the lever and where it's connected, but it's very side to side wobbly too. Thanks!!

[txironhead]

keep it Shirl

sometimes you need both hands to light a cigarette when your riding a bike.... :-D apparently....:shock:

Sucks doesn't it? The guys I used to ride with were amazed that I could smoke a cigarette without hands at 70mph on the highway with no windshield or fairing. Yeah, it burns quicker, but when you're in the middle of a long run and the craving hits......too bad I couldn't LIGHT it with no hands....that's why I started carrying a torch-style lighter after I nearly lit my goatee on fire with my Zippo.....:shock:

Shirl: It's not as "efficient" as a throttle lock, but if you have to ditch the assembly take a look at Kuryakyn's website. The have a universal "throttle boss" that bungees over the grip. Set it at it's most convenient "cruising" location (I had mine set at 60mph) and you can hold the throttle at that position by just resting your hand on the grip. Best of all, it's around $18. If you still prefer the throttle lock, most dealerships have 'em in stock aftermarket for around $35. A metal one will probably be more, but will last longer and probably work better.

[Road_Clam]

Yeah - it's a really flimsy feeling plastic lever with three positions (off on and ?? more on? less on? dunno... it sure seems to stay on...) to the left of the throttle, mounted to the bar. The plastic lever that sticks out of the plastic housing is very wiggly. The more I question it, the more my gut is telling me to ditch it. I just don't trust it. I could always put it back on later, and I'll keep it... mostly because due to safety concerns, I don't think I'd feel comfortable selling it or even giving it away.

While the throttle issue really appears to be related to this item, is there anything else on the throttle I might want to check? I'm going on the assumption that if there is something wrong with the spring, the problem wouold be more constant and not so intermittent. Could I be overlooking something else?

Is there a knurled nut with a spring on the backside of the plastic cruise machanism? if there is, I believe you can adjust the "clamping force" the cruise control unit places on the throttle tube. Try backing out the adjusting nut like a 1/2 turn or so, this could be why it's binding.....

[nert]

same animal i have on my throttle. on mine, opposite the thumb lever (forward) is a small hole with an allen screw. Maybe lossen a bit. Seems like just an adjustment is needed as suggested by boondocks and others.