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Difference between 1.85/2.15 rim
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Difference between 1.85/2.15 rim
Figuring that I can put the same tires on both, what kind of difference in performance can I expect from these two size rims if I'm dropping from the 2.15 to the 1.85 in order to fit dual discs?Tags: None
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UncleMike
Not sure if I'm clear here, but would the increase in braking/handling be noticeable enough to attempt this swap? Or would I actually see a decrease in handling from having the smaller front wheel and ostensibly more weight up front?
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Billy Ricks
More than likely it will come close to being a wash. The smaller contact patch will offset the greater braking force of the dual discs as compared to the larger contact patch and single disc to some degree.
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I'm a little confused with your dilemia here Mike. If your single disk is as wimpy as those on the GS1000's then the upgrade should be worthwhile. You probably wouldn't notice much difference going to the slightly narrower wheel unless you are running oversized tires, however, most Suzuki wheels I've seen are pre-drilled from the factory for two brake rotors and then one side is simply covered with a plastic cap for single disk operation. You should be able to just remove the two rotors from the 1.85 wheel and bolt them to the 2.15 wheel if this is the case.'84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM)
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UncleMike
Oh, really? That's good news. Looks like I've gotta take off that front wheel and check. Then I should be able to have the best of both worlds!Originally posted by Sandy View PostI'm a little confused with your dilemia here Mike. If your single disk is as wimpy as those on the GS1000's then the upgrade should be worthwhile. You probably wouldn't notice much difference going to the slightly narrower wheel unless you are running oversized tires, however, most Suzuki wheels I've seen are pre-drilled from the factory for two brake rotors and then one side is simply covered with a plastic cap for single disk operation. You should be able to just remove the two rotors from the 1.85 wheel and bolt them to the 2.15 wheel if this is the case.
Oh happy day,...
Now the question would remain, is there any difference between a set of '82750E forks and calipers a set of '801000 forks and calipers besides the anti-dive?
Thanks guys,
Mike
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humhead
Now the question would remain, is there any difference between a set of '82750E forks and calipers a set of '801000 forks and calipers besides the anti-dive?
82 750E forks are 35mm diameter & 602mm length (inner tube only) 80 1000G forks are 37mm diameter & 612mm length(inner tube only).
2 valve 750 tubes are 35mm diameter 613mm length.
2 valve 850G, 1000E & G &1100G lowers are all dual disc. 78-79 750E lowers are also dual disc. none of the above mentioned lowers have anti-dive.
I can't find any measurements for the outer tubes.
Terry
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UncleMike
Thanks!Originally posted by humhead View PostNow the question would remain, is there any difference between a set of '82750E forks and calipers a set of '801000 forks and calipers besides the anti-dive?
82 750E forks are 35mm diameter & 602mm length (inner tube only) 80 1000G forks are 37mm diameter & 612mm length(inner tube only).
2 valve 750 tubes are 35mm diameter 613mm length.
2 valve 850G, 1000E & G &1100G lowers are all dual disc. 78-79 750E lowers are also dual disc. none of the above mentioned lowers have anti-dive.
I can't find any measurements for the outer tubes.
Terry
Hmmm,...so what do I need to measure to make sure my wheel will fit?
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UncleMike -
humhead
Sorry if I confused you Mike. I thought the wheel width issue had been addressed. The part number for your front wheel & the front wheel for an 83 GS1100G is the same. You don't need to change it. You will need to change your forks (at least the lowers) so you can mount dual calipers. That's What the info/questions in my last post addressed. Fork length/diameter is very important.
you want to keep everything as close to stock measurements as possible.
Terry
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UncleMike
No Terry, you didn't confuse me. I'm just naturally that way!Originally posted by humhead View PostSorry if I confused you Mike. I thought the wheel width issue had been addressed. The part number for your front wheel & the front wheel for an 83 GS1100G is the same. You don't need to change it. You will need to change your forks (at least the lowers) so you can mount dual calipers. That's What the info/questions in my last post addressed. Fork length/diameter is very important.
you want to keep everything as close to stock measurements as possible.
Terry
So here's the issue: How do I figure out the measurements for my forks so I can substitute the correct ones? My model isn't listed anywhere on that website listing all Suzuki specs.
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UncleMike
Or will the tubes from any of those models work, as long as I get the triples as well? And would that be easier?
Thanks,
Mike
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humhead
I couldn't find any measurements for your forks either. You can measure the diameter of the inner tubes & the length of the outer tubes. That way, you'll know which outer tubes will fit your bike. Ideally, all you will have to change is the outer tubes. That would preserve the stock front end geometry of your bike.
What seems like a small change can make a big difference in handling. I used a set of 850G model forks on my 1000E. I definitely noticed the difference 17mm longer forks make!! (I have since went back to stock forks) The outer tubes were the same size & therefore interchangeable.
Terry
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Size of the contact patch is determined by bike weight and air pressure in the tires. Divide the weight of the bike by the air pressure and you have the contact patch. That it, unless your tires have sidewalls so stiff that they can support substantial weight by themselves.Originally posted by Billy Ricks View PostMore than likely it will come close to being a wash. The smaller contact patch will offset the greater braking force of the dual discs as compared to the larger contact patch and single disc to some degree.sigpic[Tom]
“The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George Kennan
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Billy Ricks
The formula for contact patch area would be way more complicated than that. What you are trying to achieve with inflation is the proper tire profile. If you want to run an underinflated properly sized tire for a 1.85 rim I suppose you could end up with the same contact patch as a properly inflated tire on a 2.15 rim.Originally posted by themess View PostDivide the weight of the bike by the air pressure and you have the contact patch.
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UncleMike
So all I'd need is a mm caliper on the inner tube to find it's diameter, and then measure the length of the outer tube(the part the brake calipers bolt to) right? When measuring the length of that outer tube, I'm assuming I need to pull back the dust cover and measure from the top there, to the middle where the axle goes in? Or maybe the sides where it attaches to the bottom bracket?Originally posted by humhead View PostI couldn't find any measurements for your forks either. You can measure the diameter of the inner tubes & the length of the outer tubes. That way, you'll know which outer tubes will fit your bike. Ideally, all you will have to change is the outer tubes. That would preserve the stock front end geometry of your bike.
What seems like a small change can make a big difference in handling. I used a set of 850G model forks on my 1000E. I definitely noticed the difference 17mm longer forks make!! (I have since went back to stock forks) The outer tubes were the same size & therefore interchangeable.
Terry
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