.png "Powered by vBulletin")
I am attempting to replace my stock turn signals with smaller LED units. As many of you may know the flasher won't work with the lower resistance LED units. I measured the old turn signals resistance @ 1.5 ohms and purchased 4 2ohm resistors. Still no flasher operation. I know there are special boxes made for this application[ $40-$80] but I am looking for a cheaper route. Do I use a higher resistor? Is there a flasher built for this?
-
-
Just go to any auto parts store and buy an electronic flasher. The operating range is usually printed on the flasher. About 8-10$ if I remember correctly.
E.All the robots copy robots.
Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
You are free to choose, but you are not free from the consequences of your choices. -
thanx a bunchComment
-
Hmmmm, installed electronic flasher and now I have no power to the turn signals. Not geting through the flasher, weird. Maybe I do need that special box? I hope not, wiil try to figure a way around it.Comment
-
I would check that the circuits were wired correctly by connecting a standard turn signal bulb. If they work with the bulb, my guess would be the LED's dont draw enough wattage to trip the flasher. What trip wattage flasher did you get? Turn signal elements/bulbs are 23 watt. As a rule of thumb, LED's will consume aprox 10%, so you will need a flasher (probably) with a 2 watt or less, trip load.Originally posted by stain View Post
EarlAll the robots copy robots.
Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
You are free to choose, but you are not free from the consequences of your choices.Comment
-
You replaced the the stock flasher with a another two-terminal flasher correct? Get a three terminal flasher so you can ground it.
A thermal flasher (like the one you took out) works off of load. The electronic flasher is nothing more than a timer. It requires a ground to work properly.
Btw, when you do get it working, it'll blink too fast. Here's how to fix itComment
-
My stock signals do work. Could I use a 20 watt/ 10ohm resistor in each signal circuit? The flasher I got dosen't specify the trip wattage, maybe I need to get a better quality flasher.
My stock flasher is a 3 pin unit as is my replacement electronic unit, a stant ep35.
Thanx all for the help, hope I'm not wearing you out on this subject.Last edited by Guest; 11-17-2006, 09:09 PM.Comment
-
You don't need to use resistors.Originally posted by stain View Post
Are you sure you're using the correct flasher?
Does it work with the stock incandesent bulbs?
Do the signals stay on, or do they not glow at all?Comment
-
Yes the stock bulbs work, I keep hooking them back up to make the system still operates properly.
With the stock flasher the led will come on but not blink, with the electrnic flasher they wont even come on. Maybe I do have the wrong flasher?Comment
-
Ahh, I had this happen too. Find out which two pins are positive. You may have to reverse those pins. (use a jumper to test it, or take the connectors out of the plug and swap 'em)Originally posted by stain View Post
I think I'm using the same stant EP35 flasher you are.Comment
-
Do you mean swap the 2 pins that have power? HMMMMM I'l go out and try it right nowComment
-
Yes.Originally posted by stain View Post
There is a diode in the electronic flasher so you can't reverse the polarity and destroy the timer.Comment
-
Swapped the two positive pins, still no flasher.Comment
-
One of the benefits of using an electronic flasher and led's is that they require less power to run. If you use a resistor, you're only adding more load to trick the flasher. If you eliminate the lamp failure detector circuit, you won't have to use resistors. You get less load on an already weak (by todays standards) charging system.Originally posted by 80GS1000 View Post
Check this out. http://www.mesa4x4.com/tech_articles...r/flasher.htmlLast edited by Guest; 11-17-2006, 10:01 PM.Comment
Comment