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kinda screwed...
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andrewclaycomb
kinda screwed...
Sorry about the pun, but when I took my oil filter cover off to change me oil, the lower threaded stud got stripped on the end. Now the chamber won't hold oil. What's the best way to get it out? I was thinking about JB welding on a nut, and then using a wrench with a cheater bar to twist the stud out. I've been told that on some older engines the studs are welded In place. Please tell me I don't have to buy another engine because of this...Tags: None
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UncleMike
You absolutely don't. It'll come out and you can still order new OEM's from bikebandit and others.Originally posted by andrewclaycomb View PostSorry about the pun, but when I took my oil filter cover off to change me oil, the lower threaded stud got stripped on the end. Now the chamber won't hold oil. What's the best way to get it out? I was thinking about JB welding on a nut, and then using a wrench with a cheater bar to twist the stud out. I've been told that on some older engines the studs are welded In place. Please tell me I don't have to buy another engine because of this...
Do a search, or I'm sure someone who's done this will chime in sooner or later. (Probably would've been a good idea to have a more descriptive thread title, though.)
Mike
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tconroy
What bike are you talking about?They are just 6mm by 20mm studs.you can get them at most hardware stores.Just double nut the end and it should come right out.If you can heat it up first it will help.You could also use vise grips and just tap them with a hammer to break it loose.OR you could leave it in and use a die to make it a smaller diameter and use like a 3/16 acorn nut instead of the 6mm one.It should come right out though,mine did.Originally posted by andrewclaycomb View PostSorry about the pun, but when I took my oil filter cover off to change me oil, the lower threaded stud got stripped on the end. Now the chamber won't hold oil. What's the best way to get it out? I was thinking about JB welding on a nut, and then using a wrench with a cheater bar to twist the stud out. I've been told that on some older engines the studs are welded In place. Please tell me I don't have to buy another engine because of this...
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madjack57754
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andrewclaycomb
Sorry I forgot to mention the model. Its a 78 750e. Are the studs the same on all of the models? Bike bandit doesn't have a specific section for the 78 GS750e. Only for other models.
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bj
Here's the BikeBandit link:
It's part #13.
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andrewclaycomb
Thanks everybody, using vice grips was far easier than I thought it would be. Is there any harm in just getting the part at a regular hardware store. I don't know if it needs to be a harder type of steel or something like that. Once i get this fixed I get to start trying to figure out why only the 2 middle cylinders are firing...
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Check your connections on your coils. Try switching coils and wires and see if the problem switches to the outside cylinders.Originally posted by andrewclaycomb View PostOnce i get this fixed I get to start trying to figure out why only the 2 middle cylinders are firing...
One coil is for 1&4 cylinders and the other is 2&3.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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