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J_C -
Ditto. Bench sync is just to get it started so you can do a real vacuum sync. Also make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Did you put a plug over the vacuum nozzle on the #2 carb?Originally posted by t3rmin View PostDo a real vacuum sync. Bench sync is worthless in my experience. Had a completely cold pipe after a bench sync that cleared up totally after a vacuum sync.
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J_C
What do you mean by putting a plug over the vacuum nozzle? That's connected to my petcock right?Originally posted by DimitriT View PostDitto. Bench sync is just to get it started so you can do a real vacuum sync. Also make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Did you put a plug over the vacuum nozzle on the #2 carb?
Another question... I mentioned the best RPM method... is there a specific order to performing that (ie carb 3 then 4 then 1 etc). Also, should that be performed before or after the synch? I'm concerned about it in general since most people talk about their air screws only being out 1 or 2 turns, and when I started doing it for #4 it went 3.5 turns out!
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RotaryRodder
have you checked to see if your cams are in time?
might not even be it but sounds a bit suspicous
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This is something that gets me at least once whenever I start doing a sync. On the #2 carb body, there's a nozzle which you normally connect to a hose that goes to the petcock. You need to plug that up when you sync the carbs or all bets are off.Originally posted by J_C View PostWhat do you mean by putting a plug over the vacuum nozzle? That's connected to my petcock right?
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J_C
Ohhh I see. Yeah I'm able to elevate my tank enough to get access to the screws without removing the fuel and vacuum lines, so that should be just fine
Thanks for the info!
Anyone else know if the best RPM method should be before or after the synch? I'll be working on that this weekend.
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If you know the procedure then you can do any cylinder in any order. Just after each one lower the idle so you can better guage the rpms rising.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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What jetting did you go with?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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J_C
I'm still at the recommended settings by V&H (or was it dynojet?) but I'm strongly considering rejetting it again... I just need to prove the problem I have first
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terbang
Popping and banging and flames in the pipe especially on engine braking is caused by unburnt fuel being reignited during an exhaust stroke. These things spark every stroke because the timing is picked up from the crank. Unburnt fuel in the pipe usually means either there was too much (rich) or incorrectly ignited (poor ignition or timing or compression) fuel remaining after a normal cycle.Originally posted by J_C View PostErrr. Edit above... I suspected that it would be due to a "richer" condition given the backfiring & flames coming from the pipe... but apparently the gold and blue are typical of a lean condition? Could anyone lend some advice?
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