Stuck again - gear change shaft removal

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  • Guest

    #1

    Stuck again - gear change shaft removal

    Hi all,

    I actually had a short amount of time to do a bit more on the engine dismantling today, but got stuck removing the gear change shaft.

    I was able to get the drum stopper arm off no probs at all, but then the Haynes manual says to remove the gear change shaft including its arm.

    All sounds easy, but it moves out about half a centimetre then stops dead and I can't get it any further off.

    Anyone have any tips?

    I've included a couple of pic's of the area, one has the arm and shaft circled in red...

  • jetta90
    Forum Mentor
    • Mar 2005
    • 411
    • West Kelowna, BC, Canada

    #2
    I've never had to do this on a GS before but i can imagine it might just be the same ....................................
    long time ago i had to remove the same part from a Yamaha (can i say this word on this forum?!?!) RD 350. On the RD there was a "C" clip holding the shift shaft in palce. The clip was found on the other side of the engine, you had to pull the shifter off, then the engine case on the other side of the engine. The clip was located on the shift shaft butted up against the engine crankcase. The front sprocket and chain are located in the same area so expect to find accumulated dirt and grime.
    Take a look it might be the same for you GS.

    Comment

    • bradleymaynar

      #3
      I've no experience with this, but for a thought, have you considered checking one of the various parts sites (bikebandit.com etc.) to get a break down of the innards?

      BTW Yamaha is as bad as the "H" word here. Please flog yourself accordingly!

      Brad bt
      Last edited by Guest; 01-20-2007, 01:30 AM.

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      • jetta90
        Forum Mentor
        • Mar 2005
        • 411
        • West Kelowna, BC, Canada

        #4
        sorry for the " Y " word - I have started my penance, 40 lashes, 40 minutes standing facing the corner of a yellow painted room, and 40 minutes of listening to the sound of a TZ 750 being run up and down all gears, and full out at full song, on a race track........................................hey, wait a minute that last one sounds ok to me...........................

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        • bradleymaynar

          #5
          You are forgiven, my son! :razz:

          Brad bt

          Comment

          • Nightmare

            #6
            Originally posted by BadBillyB
            If by "no movement whatsoever" you mean zero movement of the shaft, than I would have to say it sounds like the shaft is frozen in the cases. Remove the shaft. It has a clip on the left side (shifter side) that holds it in. The clutch basket will have to be removed for clearance. With the basket removed and the clip removed from the left side, the shaft pulls right out through the cases......BadBillyB
            this is from another thread... dunno if it will be useful to you or not

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            • Guest

              #7
              Thanks for the tips guys... didn't even think of looking at the other side!

              I've just been following thru the Haynes manual and it hasn't mentioned anything, but it won't be the first time I've found a mistake in there.

              I'll try to have another go today sometime and see what I can see.

              Comment

              • Guest

                #8
                Ok, just had a quick look and yep, it appears there's a circlip or a seal or something on the other side that's probably stopping me.

                I haven't got time to try just now, but at least I can see where I might be going wrong.

                Thanks again guys!

                Comment

                • Nightmare

                  #9
                  A Haynes or Clymer repair manual being wrong?!?!? Never! I mean when you cover "GS 800-1100, 1979-1987" or whatever it is they MUST have all of the knowledge for the 40 some models that book covers... My book drives me crazy, I went by the torque specs for the oil filter cover for example and discovered that it started to leak, so i said "screw it" and over torqued the nuts and fixed the issue, which made me wonder about the torque recommendations for all of the other parts...

                  Comment

                  • Guest

                    #10
                    Aaah yeah... when getting the drum stopper arm off I had to substitute "bolt" for "screw"... apparently they didn't notice the difference...

                    Comment

                    • Guest

                      #11
                      Finally got it off today!

                      There was no circlip or anything, just didn't want to move due to age I think.

                      I had a good close look with a torch and it just looked like a seal to me.

                      So I got my trusty flouro orange hammer out and gave it some very gentle taps and it start moving out. Woohooo!

                      Now, if I can just stop the engine spinning on the bench when using my impact driver, I could get the oil pump out...

                      Comment

                      • Guest

                        #12
                        Don't suppose anyone has about a 6mm allen key they can email me for a loan? :-)

                        Sump cover off now, but the two allen bolts inside the oil filter housing are too big for all my allen keys!

                        Have to procure a larger item... who says size doesn't count? :-P

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