Keith Krause I have some questions...

[byrdman76]

Hello Keith,

Since you seem to be the most helpful with most carb issues on this forum I figured I would call you out for some suggestions. I am currently working on a 79 GS550 with the VM22 carbs. I recently picked up a set of no name (K&N style) non foam pod filters on ebay and wanted to know what typical fuel pilot screw adjustment and proper jet sizes would be a good start for this mod. Also a recommendation on the needle clip position would be great.

I am going to be completely rebuilding the carbs with Keyster carb kits after they get done soaking in berrymans or gunk carb dip. The bike currently has the stock exhaust and I would like to keep it that way since I like the old school cafe racer look of the dual exhaust. If there is a way to open the stock exhaust up to better suit the pods Im all for it - a little more noise and performance wouldnt bother me at all.

Thanks in advance.

Eric

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Just saw this as I'm going to bed (working Saturday). I should have went to bed an hour ago but I haven't stopped by lately.
If you're still interested, I'll make some jetting suggestions tomorrow night.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

93 views at this time and only my 1 reply.
I can understand asking for specific help but I'm against that because others have advice that may help too. Don't limit your responses to any technical question.
Do you still need help with jetting?

[byrdman76]

Absolutely!

93 views at this time and only my 1 reply.
I can understand asking for specific help but I'm against that because others have advice that may help too. Don't limit your responses to any technical question.
Do you still need help with jetting?

Thanks for getting back to me. Any help/suggestions from anyone would be greatly appreciated.

I have completely dissassembled the carbs, dipped them in Berrymans overnight and flushed them with carb cleaner and compresed air.

I have ordered 4 Keyster carb kits, and a main jet assortment 95, 100, 102.5, and 105. The jet kits have not arrived so i am waiting on those before I begin re-assembling the carbs.

I have purchased 4 new pods (K&N knock off air filters, non foam) that look like they are going to kit the frame rails but will work with some "adjustment"

I am looking for help with what main jet to begin with, pilot jet change if necessary, e clip location - it is currently in the middle, I can go up two notches or down two notches. Float adjustment if different from standard, and fuel pilot screw adjustment. The previous owner had moved these from their original location and they were difficult to move anyway. Instead of chancing breaking the tips off in the carbs i decided to remove them and tune later.

The current exhaust on the bike is stock (shorter "L" version four into two) If i find a good deal on a 4 into 1 I may go that route to compliment the pods but i would rather not if i do not have to. I like the look of the stock exhaust, is gutting it even an option?

Thanks in advance,

Eric

[jonesti]

Byrdman here's a little of Keith's wisdom from an earlier post of mine.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=102805&highlight=vm22ss

[byrdman76]

Open Exhaust?

Byrdman here's a little of Keith's wisdom from an earlier post of mine.



http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ghlight=vm22ss

Hey Jonesti,

Please elaborate on how you opened up your stock exhaust.

What carb set up did you finally end up with?

I have a Dyna S with green coils and dyna wires coming in this week.

Thanks for the reply.

[byrdman76]

bump.

bump-bump-bump

[KEITH KRAUSE]

If you read any of my posts, I always say it's kind of difficult to suggest the jetting when you run pods with stock exhaust. Those two are a poor match. K&N knock off filters seem to vary in flow too and that makes guessing harder. I don't have a lot of experience with modding the stock exhaust either, but I'll make some suggestions. Just be sure the bike is ready for re-jetting. Valve clearances set, good compression, good spark, timing, all the basics.
I'd probably try 97.5 or 100 mains. Test/get plug reads at full throttle.
The jet needle positions are by far the most work on your carbs. You also must re-bench synch/vacuum tool synch everytime you disturb/move the needles. I'd probably try placing the e-clip at the bottom (5th from the top) position, though that may be just a bit rich. The pods would generally require the full two positions but that restrictive exhaust may screw up my sugggestion. It is best to go rich and work your way lean though, if that happens. I do think that if two positions richer is a bit rich, then placing a jetting spacer (approx' .022") directly on top the e-clip in the 5th position would do it. The spacer on top would equal position "4 1/2". Be sure all factory jet needle spacer(s) are re-installed in correct order. I really doubt you'd need to go leaner unless those pods are garbage. So to me, it comes down to those two positions, and I'd probably try the 5th position (no spacer) first and test. Mark your throttle housing/grip and test at 1/3 throttle/level or uphill a couple miles. Do what the plugs/performance tell you to. Remember to bench synch to make the vacuum synch easier. I have a post around here that details a typical VM bench synch if you need it. The vacuum synch is mandatory when re-jetting in my opinion.
As for the pilot circuit, I'd try the stock 15 pilots first and see if richer pilot fuel screw (underneath) adjustments fix you up. Try about 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. If you try up to 2 1/2 turns out and it's still lean, then try a 17.5 jet and return the screws to something closer to factory, say 1 full turn out and test. You should not need to go larger than the 17.5's. If you order larger pilots, be sure to get the correct length and Mikuni only. After these changes, initially set the side air screws to 1 3/4 turns out. If you bench synched well and set the idle knob up enough, the bike should start up. Be sure it's fully warmed up and then fine tune the side air screws using the highest rpm method. Place the bike on the centerstand and set the idle to 1,000 rpm's. Starting at any carb, slowly adjust a screw in either direction until you hear the rpms max. Fine tune it. Now re-set the idle to 1,000 with the idle adjuster knob. Repeat to the others carbs. I test/get plug reads for the pilot circuit by cruising around a couple miles at minimum throttle position. 4th/5th gear steady throttle, level or uphill. Start with fresh/clean plugs.
Just be careful with high speed testing the needle and main circuits. Some jet kits say you can accurately test at much lower speeds in lower gears but I've never had luck that way. I can't feel the bike well in that situation. I just open the throttle to the correct position for the circuit I'm testing and I ride at whatever speed happens. The higher speed/steady throttle position testing works for me. I've always had a good testing place to go. I don't know about you so be careful.
Let us know how the bike runs.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Oh, almost forgot. REMOVE the two floatbowl vent lines at carbs 1 and 4 and leave the ports open. When running pods, fuel starvation occurs if you don't.

[byrdman76]

Hey Keith,

The main jets still havent arrived. I will have 95 and 100 mains to work with so i will start with the 100s.

I am running short little pieces of hose to keep trash out of the vent tubes - maybe 1-2 inches long. Do these need to be removed?

I will post back with my findings and or questions once I begin tuning.

Thanks Again,

Eric

[jonesti]

Byrd sorry just saw this. I haven't done the exhaust as of yet. The bike is in several hundred pieces. However, the carbs are together and my base settings are going to be stock pilots, 102.5mains, needles on richest settings.

[byrdman76]

No problem

Byrd sorry just saw this. I haven't done the exhaust as of yet. The bike is in several hundred pieces. However, the carbs are together and my base settings are going to be stock pilots, 102.5mains, needles on richest settings.

Hey Jonesti,

I know what you mean about several pieces, my bike is scattered, covered and smothered all over the garage. I cant seem to just focus on one section at a time. Seriously Bondo dust is freakin every where.

Did you get your jet kit from SCI on Ebay? mine is taking a while to get here... As soon as it does I'll get the carbs back on this thing and start tuning. I'll let you know what i find. Once i get the carbs straightened back out i'll get the DYNA S on their and see if i feel any significant improvement.

Do you know if people just drill out the existing baffle on their exhausts? I could easily take a long drill bit and practically remove the one that is in their now - otherwise i dont see how you would remove it with out destroying the exhaust. Any ideas on what your going to do.

BTW arent you building a cafe as well?

[jonesti]

I'm dreading the fiberglass and putty dust, then having to clean it all to lay down the HOK paint, but it's getting almost time for the bodywork.

I did get it in the mail but missing the 95mains. I contacted them and was told it was shipped 3weeks ago???? It's coming from Canada if that has anything to do with it?

I think you could drill out the rivets on the bottom and slid the whole baffle out. I'm busting out the chop saw and cutting right behind the mounts. Not the most performance gaining job but this is for looks. My exhaust sounds like the baffle has broken and just rattles like change in grandpa's pocket!

Yep. Time to work on it and the wait for backorderd parts is killing me!

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=102202

[KEITH KRAUSE]

byrdman76, I think even the shorty 1-2" float bowl vent lines you're using can allow a vortex effect/fuel starvation problem. I'd remove them. I haven't heard of a problem due to dirt/dust entering the vent ports.
What is this jet kit from SCI you mention? I hope your main jets you ordered are sized like Mikuni jets. Some makers size their jets via different methods. Some by flow rate, some by actual hole size. Maybe you're OK, but I always suggest genuine Mikuni jets. They're made to exact measurements.

[byrdman76]

still waiting...

I'm dreading the fiberglass and putty dust, then having to clean it all to lay down the HOK paint, but it's getting almost time for the bodywork.

I did get it in the mail but missing the 95mains. I contacted them and was told it was shipped 3weeks ago???? It's coming from Canada if that has anything to do with it?

I think you could drill out the rivets on the bottom and slid the whole baffle out. I'm busting out the chop saw and cutting right behind the mounts. Not the most performance gaining job but this is for looks. My exhaust sounds like the baffle has broken and just rattles like change in grandpa's pocket!

Yep. Time to work on it and the wait for backorderd parts is killing me!
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=102202

Still no parts today - this is really beging to **** me off!

I have been waiting over a week and a half for a few jets to come in and i use paypall so in theory the parts should be sent the following business day. Rant over.

Your bike looks like it is coming along great. I cant wait to see that brake set up. How did you discover that you could do that or is this the first one.

Here's a picture of mine so far - I have some more body work to clean up on the tank and recover the tailsection but I should have it all back together pretty soon.