Sig gen weirdness on 1100GL

[Anonymous]

I'm trying to diagnose a nonfunctional ignition system on my new-to-me '82 GS1100GL.

My Clymer's says that to test the signal generator, I should check for continuity (at something like 200-300 ohms) between the blue and green sig gen leads. The cable from my signal generator has four wires (blue, green, black, yellow). It's an open circuit between the blue and green, but I show 150 ohms between the blue and yellow, and also between the green and black. Does that sound right?

The sig gen cable is damaged, so I suspect that there may be a broken wire. To test for that, I want to remove the sig gen, but again the Clymer's is leading me wrong. Its instructions for removing the sig gen don't mention that big ol' cam that blocks removal. The cam appears to be held on by an Allen screw, so I'm preparing to remove that. However, in the past I've found that things attached directly to the crankshaft are left-hand thread. I *really* don't want to break this, so before I break out the impact driver, does anybody know what I should be doing here?

Any advice?

Hal

[argonsagas]

Suzuki manual says nothing about thread direction, and I have never removed one of these units. It does give the following:


Green-Yellow and Blue-Black should be between 140 and 200 ohms.

If resistance is infinity or less than above, the signal generator should be replaced.

[Anonymous]

Okay, it was right-handed (and it didn't even require the impact driver, just a 12" ratchet). Got it off, and determined that one pickup coil has the green-black pair, and the other has the blue-yellow pair. It sounds to me like it's either wired backwards or the manual has them transposed. In any case, it looks like the signal generator is fine. The coils both test out at 3.9 ohms primary, so the problem isn't there.

Now I'm just waiting for the battery to be charged so that I can do the ignitor test. On one hand, I'm hoping the problem is there, since that means that my troubleshooting has been correct; on the other hand, I'm hoping the problem is something else (a loose wire, etc.) so I don't have to go spring for a Dyna S.

Hal

[Anonymous]

Yay!

Glory be -- I have spark on all four cylinders!

The previous owner had told me, on purchase, that it was only firing on two cylinders. Well, he was right. He had hooked the 1-4 coil to 1-3, and the 2-3 coil to 2-4.

Luckily, during all my mucking about, I didn't break anything. When I bump the starter, I can verify spark on all four plugs. (I don't have a gas tank, and haven't filled up my testing mini-tank yet, so I can't say if it'll actually *run* or not, though.)

I was unable to successfully run the ignitor test. I did everything as instructed -- turn on ignition, connect positive lead to blue ignitor wire and negative to green -- but no spark. Doesn't matter, though, since it's clearly working.

Something else weird, too. I was testing by bumping the starter, and noticed that even with the signal generator completely disconnected, I was still getting spark on two cylinders. Huh?

No matter. I'm happy to have spark. Next hurdle: fuel.

Hal

[Alan Schlosser]

Let me know if you need any wiring information on your bike. I have the factory shop manual for the 82 1100L. I'd be glad to pass on any information that you might need. I also have the parts CD if you need to look up any part numbers.

[Anonymous]

Alan,

Thanks for the offer! I'll probably take you up on it.

I've tried looking up some things at bikebandit.com, but their scans are SO bad that it's almost impossible to decipher them.

Here's one for you, in fact. The boot on the throttle cable (at the throttle end) is cracked in half. Is this part of the throttle cable, or is this its own part?

I have another question, but it belongs in a new topic.

Hal

[Alan Schlosser]

The cable looks to be all one piece from the twist grip to the engine. It's part number 58300-45221.
Al

[Anonymous]

Thanks!

Hal