somebody smarter than me, voltage

[Guest]

I just put my new Rick's R/R on the bike today and started it up. Now, it charges at about 13.2V at 4000rpm, 13.5V at 5000rpm, 13.8V at 2500rpm and 13.2V at idle. Can somebody tell me why it charges more at a lower rpm than at a higher rpm? Is this R/R bad?

"so printed off the flow-chart from the stator pages and this is what I got:
Test A=I know the r/r is bad as it is burned to a crisp

Test B= Three readings are: 1.3ohms, 1.2ohms, 1.2ohms
So I think this test is a pass, right?

Test B part II: Three readings result in no change of the infinite reading on the display,
So this is a pass, right?

Test B part III: Three readings are: 74V +/- 1, 74V +/-0.5, 75V +/- 0.5
(it is hard to keep the RPM exactly at 5000rpm) so it was up and down a little over about 500rpm, I think this test is a pass, right?

Test C buying a new battery anyway"


From the above test, my stator should be ok, so what is up with the whole charging system?

Most guys report charging at 14V is mine too low?

[earlfor]

I just put my new Rick's R/R on the bike today and started it up. Now, it charges at about 13.2V at 4000rpm, 13.5V at 5000rpm, 13.8V at 2500rpm and 13.2V at idle. Can somebody tell me why it charges more at a lower rpm than at a higher rpm? Is this R/R bad?

"so printed off the flow-chart from the stator pages and this is what I got:
Test A=I know the r/r is bad as it is burned to a crisp

Test B= Three readings are: 1.3ohms, 1.2ohms, 1.2ohms
So I think this test is a pass, right?

Test B part II: Three readings result in no change of the infinite reading on the display,
So this is a pass, right?

Test B part III: Three readings are: 74V +/- 1, 74V +/-0.5, 75V +/- 0.5
(it is hard to keep the RPM exactly at 5000rpm) so it was up and down a little over about 500rpm, I think this test is a pass, right?

Test C buying a new battery anyway"


From the above test, my stator should be ok, so what is up with the whole charging system?

Most guys report charging at 14V is mine too low?

Your voltages are exactly what mine are on the 1150 with a Ricks R/R. Its been fine for 2 years now. Leave it alone, its fine. :-)

Earl

[Steve]

Voltage seems to go down a bit with higher rpm as the ignition is firing more often, taking some of the excess. All your numbers look good to me.

Just make sure you have clean, tight connections and get ready to ride. \\/


.

[tfb]

Yeah, I get the same thing happening with my Kat1100, and that's with a rewound stator and new RR. The voltage peaks at about 2000rpm and after that drops a little bit. It's never bothered me that much; the main thing is that I don't have to bump-start 240kg of motorcycle any more. ;-)

[cberkeley]

At higher RPMs the electronic ignition system is firing so often, the power to keep up has to come from somewhere. This presents sufficient load on the electrical system to cause a drop of about 0.5 Volts. Sounds perfectly normal to me.

[Clone]

Thanks guys, I intend to remove the bullet connectors and solder the connections when the temperature isn't -20C

[Kris V]

There is a (PEAK) charging rpm and it depends on how good your battery is. The peakrpm is from 2500-4500 and after that it settels down. I have seen regulators go up to 15.5 on the peak. A normal charge is from 13.5-14.5 so your in the ballpark. The stator on the crank delivers 70-80 volts AC from those three big wires coming out of your case and gives it to the votage regulator/rectifier and converts it to DC. The regulator does what it says and "regulates" the voltage to the optimum charging voltage for the battery during use. At highway speeds there is not a big demand due to the engine speed but when your at a stop light and idling that is when there is more demand due to the engines low rpm and usage is higher due to turn signals and brake lights being on. I hope that sheds some light on the subject for you:-D