Left Carb leaking :(

[KEITH KRAUSE]

As said earlier, you shouldn't need to replace any brass parts. Mikuni jets are more precision made than the jets that come in the various kits.
If you have the normal wear and tear inside your carbs, all you'll need is the bowl and top gasket, and replacing all inner o-rings from Robert Barr is advised.
Only additional part(s) you may need are the float valves. The valves do wear and if the tip is worn enough or the small spring gets weak, then that valve will start leaking. As with the jets, the valves that come in kits can be inferior. Problem is that the factory valves are very expensive. I think long term and always buy the factory valves.
Of course, any part can fail, but I only consider the gaskets and inner o-rings as necessary to replace. If you have a leaky carb, inspect/clean it first. If no dirt, etc, then check the floats condition and adjust if necessary. Check the valve tip for grooving and check the spring. Replace as necessary. Keep all carb parts as a unit. Don't mix them up.

[tconroy]

When ever you measure the float level make sure to do it with the gasket off of the carb to get a good reading.Somebody with an 85o will probably chime in and tell you what the levels are since they are probably different than mine and I would hate to give the wrong specs.Do order the o-rings from robert.They are good quality and the right size.Also they are individually packed and labeled to where they belong.You could'nt ask for anything better than that!

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Also, oldbikebarn is on our deadbeats list. Near the end of the thread, it appears they are trying to fix their reputation. Read it and decide for yourself. "Partsnmore" sells simple rebuild kits consisting of the two gaskets and float valve. Remember, the valve isn't made as well as the factory valve. That doesn't mean it won't work. It just means it's inferior.
I haven't shopped around that much, but if it was me, I'd just buy the gaskets and order the inner o-ring kits from Robert Barr. Then I'd replace any worn valves with factory.

[mortation]

OK I ordered the o ring kit Sweet hope this works lol. Never done carbs before

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Read the CV carb article at this site. If there's anything that stumps you, just ask us before you do something you're not comfortable with.
Use tools that fit your parts, keep parts separated and in a group/for each carb... use a towel to keep stuff from dropping and rolling away... install parts carefully, be careful when handling the rubber diaphragms... be careful of removing the pin that holds the floats because many use too much force and break a tower, many of those pins go in/come out one way...be careful when cleaning, using a piece of wire to poke into passages can sometimes create a burr in the soft carb material...just common sense really.
Like I said, just ask us. It's not hard if you take your time.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

One other thing, be sure the manifolds the carbs pop into are in decent condition. If your manifolds have o-rings, I suggest replacing the o-rings.
Not trying to add to your list, but a good inspection of the manifolds is necessary whenever the carbs are out. Re-installing the carbs into poor condition manifolds can expose an intake leak easily.

[Norseman]

Oh, great! Mine are too

Well, guess I'm in the same boat with my GS650GLX... Just noticed gas drops under the two right carbs in multiple places. So, here I go on a job never done before. I assume I remove gas tank, remove the carbs, clean'm up and tear'm down. Good time for a thorough cleaning/scrubbing/polishing of engine, I suppose.

My questions are:

1. about the o-rings from Robert Barr - I wanted to confirm it's cycleorings.com posted on the GS Links page.
2. buy gaskets and intake boot o-rings from my local dealership.
3. do the complete procedure as defined in the pictorial for CV carbs?

Have I got this right?

Norseman

[tconroy]

Well, guess I'm in the same boat with my GS650GLX... Just noticed gas drops under the two right carbs in multiple places. So, here I go on a job never done before. I assume I remove gas tank, remove the carbs, clean'm up and tear'm down. Good time for a thorough cleaning/scrubbing/polishing of engine, I suppose.

My questions are:

1. about the o-rings from Robert Barr - I wanted to confirm it's cycleorings.com posted on the GS Links page.
2. buy gaskets and intake boot o-rings from my local dealership.
3. do the complete procedure as defined in the pictorial for CV carbs?

Have I got this right?

Norseman

Get the o-rings from robert.Intake boot o-rings from the dealer.Get the 6mm hex bolts to replace the boot intake bolts and you should be fine.Check your boots also for tears or seperation from the metal.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Make a note on which way the float hinge pins come out THEY only go in one way unless forced which may break the float post

[mortation]

I would just like to make a note here that I ordered an O ring set from Robert. It was was the last thing I ordered in a long list of parts for my bike and it is the FIRST thing to arrive at my door step. He emailed me less than an hour after I ordered from his site. Ordered on the 17th and at my door on the 20th. Don't hesitate to order this kit from him!

[Norseman]

Robert vs. cycleorings.com

This is the same guy, right? I keep reading about o-rings from Robert and want to make sure I place my business in the "family. If it's not cycleorings.com, what is his contact info?

Thanks,
Norseman

[mortation]

This is the same guy, right? I keep reading about o-rings from Robert and want to make sure I place my business in the "family. If it's not cycleorings.com, what is his contact info?

Thanks,
Norseman

cycleorings.com is the right place for Robert Barr

[Norseman]

Thanks, Mortation

Thanks for clarifying that, cycleorings.com it is. Just pulled my carbs today, and they were nasty. My first with carbs as well, but my intimidation factor is shrinking. I'm staying away from the rebuild kits, if I need new float valves, I'm taking Keith's advice and buying OEM. Might have to replace intake boots, though, they don't look very good.

Norseman

[mortation]

Thanks for clarifying that, cycleorings.com it is. Just pulled my carbs today, and they were nasty. My first with carbs as well, but my intimidation factor is shrinking. I'm staying away from the rebuild kits, if I need new float valves, I'm taking Keith's advice and buying OEM. Might have to replace intake boots, though, they don't look very good.

Norseman

I had already grabbed 4 mini kits from oldbikebarn.com so I have the gaskets and the o rings from robert. I will take my carbs off as soon as the kits show up. I already tracked down the carb dip which turned out to be the most challenging lol.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Thanks for clarifying that, cycleorings.com it is. Just pulled my carbs today, and they were nasty. My first with carbs as well, but my intimidation factor is shrinking. I'm staying away from the rebuild kits, if I need new float valves, I'm taking Keith's advice and buying OEM. Might have to replace intake boots, though, they don't look very good.

Norseman

I just got back to this thread and saw your first post and thought I'd mention your leak could be just loose bowl screws, but obviously you're into the carbs now and it sounds like they could use some TLC.
My take on the float valves is this...
The factory valves are much better quality. Some aftermarket valves are decent, while some are really poor quality. As always, you get what you pay for.
Factory valves for my '79 1000 are about $35/ea. That's expensive. But if you're going to keep the bike a long time I think it's the best decision. The cheaper ones may fail and then you get to take things apart again, etc. No way do the cheaper ones last nearly as long as the factory ones. Your time is important too.
But if you don't plan to keep the bike that long, don't put much miles on it, on a budget, etc, then maybe you're better off trying the cheaper ones. It just depends on your situation I guess.