Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

82 gs 650gl real brake help

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    82 gs 650gl real brake help

    I am triying to replace the brake pads, cuz the other ones were toast. I was easily able to remove the pads, and im trying to put the new ones in. The Clymer manual has helped move the pistons back. I can fit one in (the closest to the exhaust pipe) but the other one won't fit, the piston won't return. but it will move out when i hit the brake.. ive tried using wood, hammers, screwdrivers. (yes i know im retarded i just wanted to get it done) didn't work. any tips?

    #2
    I usually use a pry bar to push it in. If that doesn't work try a small c-clamp.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by dtricks View Post
      I am triying to replace the brake pads, cuz the other ones were toast. I was easily able to remove the pads, and im trying to put the new ones in. The Clymer manual has helped move the pistons back. I can fit one in (the closest to the exhaust pipe) but the other one won't fit, the piston won't return. but it will move out when i hit the brake.. ive tried using wood, hammers, screwdrivers. (yes i know im retarded i just wanted to get it done) didn't work. any tips?
      Sounds like it might be time for a rebuild.Try sticking your peice of wood in thereand then hit the pedal.May just need cleaning.

      Comment


        #4
        Crack the bleeder open for that piston while using the C clamp. You may get SOME of the rusty gunk out thats causing it to stick.
        If all the fluid you get out looks like mud, you may have to rebuild the caliper.

        Comment


          #5
          tried prying it with bleeder open, was real clean, almost clear. i was gonna drink it, it made me so thirsty....

          i grabbed a beer instead

          Comment


            #6
            k i used hammer, big screwdriver, vise grips. do i need to remove the caliper from the bike??? what is the deal!!! i even broke the wood off me hammer...

            Comment


              #7
              Leave the calaper on the bike, pry with a big screwdriver between the disk & old brake pad usually works

              Comment


                #8
                did it, still didn't work, pumped brakes whyle doin it, still didn't work, bend old brake pad doin it, still didn't work... bought a used caliper off ebay. should take 6 months to get it... hope u guys got better ideas

                Comment


                  #9
                  If you can't get it in with a c-clamp you need to remove the piston and clean it.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    how do u fit the c clamp in the little crevase?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You have to take off the caliper and turn it over. The outer part of the c-clamp where you turn it will be on the outside. The proper size is also important.
                      I'm not making this up. I've done it.:-D
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I DID IT! GOD THANK YOU FORUMS!!!

                        i removed the caliper, and the piston wasn't going in straight, so it wasn't going in at all. i pumped the brakes while having it clamped, and it popped back into place... don't it feel good to do something right

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X