replacing head gaskets

[ron bayless]

You'll know it inside and out. Zen, baby. Be the bike, Danny.
hA HA HAH HA HA.that's funny!

[ron bayless]

My 1100 has been leaking around that 6mm front bolt ever since I did a complete rebuild a couple of years ago. I had a broken shift detent in the transmission, the bike would start popping out of gear so one winter I wheeled it into the dining room (not married) and tore it all down. I used an Atheana gasket kit and I can't remember if the o-rings for the two center head bolts were replaced then, but they're going to be now.

That was the best advice that other members offered up to me. I won't know for a couple weeks if that did the trick because I'm still snowed in, but I've got a good feeling that might be the oil leak source.

And don't be afraid to tear that sucker down. Get some good manuals, a Suzuki shop and a Clymer, take digital pictures, ask more (there are no dumb) questions here, and spend some dough on necessary tools. You'll use then again and the whole experience is good for the soul. It'll really be YOUR bike then. You'll know it inside and out. Zen, baby. Be the bike, Danny.

ok baby!that's funny stuff.

[Big T]

Mark,I was reading some old threads here.My bike has 33,000 miles on it.it says there if you are going to pull the cylinder block,then you need to rebore the cylinders,get new rings and maybe new pistons.Man! Then what about the crank? There is no stopping place.I was hoping to just do a head gasket replacement.Any advice?

I think that the cam chain O ring (actually a rectangle) may have failed and that's where the oil is coming from.

Remember, after 25-30 years, these "rubber" materials deteriorate and harden, allowing the seal to break.

Other have recommended taking off the head and block. There are "rubber" O rings at the back corners between the block and the upper engine case that allow oil to circulate. These, along with the probable cracking of the seal of the base gasket when you pull the head, are why you should strip the motor to the case when you change the head gasket.

It will add an hour or so to pull the block, clean everything up, add the new base gasket and O rings and reload the pistons. It also keeps any gasket scrapings out of the cylinders.

You don't need to rebuild the motor. Fresh gaskets, and a carb sync will have you back on the road in a day or so.

Of course, you'll probably find a few other O rings or gaskets to change, or something that needs to be cleaned or painted, but that's why you own an old bike!

[ron bayless]

[QUOTE=Big T;595657]I think that the cam chain O ring (actually a rectangle) may have failed and that's where the oil is coming from.

Remember, after 25-30 years, these "rubber" materials deteriorate and harden, allowing the seal to break.

Other have recommended taking off the head and block. There are "rubber" O rings at the back corners between the block and the upper engine case that allow oil to circulate. These, along with the probable cracking of the seal of the base gasket when you pull the head, are why you should strip the motor to the case when you change the head gasket.

It will add an hour or so to pull the block, clean everything up, add the new base gasket and O rings and reload the pistons. It also keeps any gasket scrapings out of the cylinders.

You don't need to rebuild the motor. Fresh gaskets, and a carb sync will have you back on the road in a day or so.

Of course, you'll probably find a few other O rings or gaskets to change, or something that needs to be cleaned or painted, but that's why you own an old bike![/QUOTE

thanks for the input.i read where if you pull the block off then the rings wont seal properly any more.I am going to replace the square seals around the fron 6 mm bolt and see if that does it.Wiseco makes a rebuld kit for 527 dollars.But then you need someone to bore it out to 1085,then you should have someone do a valve job,then mic the crank to check it out,etc etc.If this was a kz 900 or cb 750 or some true classic i would do all that.So,if the simple seal replacement doesnt work i will probably not do anything else.Ron

[Big T]

You won't have any problem with the rings not sealing if you pull the block. What could possibly change at the rings? It's not like they stay in the same position on a daily basis. People just come up with such weird, unfounded ideas.

I had a bike motor that, after I rebuilt it, just pumped oil like a derrick. I must have taken it apart 4-5 times (lotsa money on a new gasket set each time) looking for the problem. Finally, I took it to another machinist/car restorer/2 stroke guy I know and he looked at it for 2 weeks and finally found a spot where the bore was messed up on one side. Honed it right out. The original machinist boring bar had broken down and gouged the cylinder (not that he'd admit to it)

I never had a problem with the rings not seating again after taking it apart.

Like I said, if you're going to take off the head, go all the way or you'll probably be taking it apart again to replace the base gasket.

[ron bayless]

You won't have any problem with the rings not sealing if you pull the block. What could possibly change at the rings? It's not like they stay in the same position on a daily basis. People just come up with such weird, unfounded ideas.

I had a bike motor that, after I rebuilt it, just pumped oil like a derrick. I must have taken it apart 4-5 times (lotsa money on a new gasket set each time) looking for the problem. Finally, I took it to another machinist/car restorer/2 stroke guy I know and he looked at it for 2 weeks and finally found a spot where the bore was messed up on one side. Honed it right out. The original machinist boring bar had broken down and gouged the cylinder (not that he'd admit to it)

I never had a problem with the rings not seating again after taking it apart.

Like I said, if you're going to take off the head, go all the way or you'll probably be taking it apart again to replace the base gasket.

yEP,THIS IS TOO MUCH FOR ME.i GIVE UP.I NEED FOR SOMEONE TO JUST BUY IT FROM ME.