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    stator drops volts with revs

    Hi folks. I was reading the stator papers and it says this might be a bad stator. Before buying a new one I just wanted to run this by you guys. At idle it returns 13.7 v. The moment I'm on the Throttle it drops Down, eventually to 13.0


    Also, Can a stator be changed without draining the oil?

    Thank you.

    #2
    Have you disconnected the wires and actually checked it first using the instrucctions of the stator papers? Check that first. If it checks ok, do yourself a favor and cut off the plug that connects it to the voltage regulator and solder the wires together, as those plugs cause alot of voltage problems.

    Yes,it can be replaced without draining, just have the bike on its sidestand. It will drip a little bit of oil when you pull the cover off, but not much.

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      #3
      Sidestand???????????:shock:
      Last edited by Guest; 03-05-2007, 01:46 PM.

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        #4
        Thank you Tom. I have not done that recently. I did do it about 8 months ago and I remember that something wasn't right about my results, but I really should go back and do it again before plunking down $100 for a new one of these things.

        Thank you for the advice. I'll solder those guys together if I can determine that the stator is not at fault. Cheers

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          #5
          I would fully charge your battery and check all three legs of your stator and post results. Disconnect the three stator wires and get the reading directly from the stator itself.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #6
            Not trying to confuse the issue here, (the above are valid test procedures) but bear in mind too that with an unloaded stator (all three wires disconnected) it is possible for the stator voltages to appear normal while the stator was actually toast, as was the case with mine. The stator pictured below is toast, but tests good under no-load conditions. under load it delivers no more than 11.5 volts
            I'm saving it for a rewind job one Sunday when it's raining and I can't ride. :-D

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              #7
              That thing tested normal? Wow, it's fried big time.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #8
                Scotty's point/query is a good one.

                The repair can be done with the bike on the sidestand but it will leak a bit more than when on the centrestand. I have done it both ways, and the centrestand position is easier to work with. :-D
                Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by argonsagas View Post
                  Scotty's point/query is a good one.

                  The repair can be done with the bike on the sidestand but it will leak a bit more than when on the centrestand. I have done it both ways, and the centrestand position is easier to work with. :-D
                  Hooray. Thanks ron:-D

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by scotty View Post
                    Sidestand???????????:shock:
                    Oops, I meant center. I was thinking about the sidestand when I was writing it. Sorry.

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