13.7 volts at 5000 rpm

**bcrowther** · 03-15-2007, 09:19 PM

Sounds like a problem, I dont know abut the bat. going down on you but the fuse box being empty and your electrical still working can be very bad. sounds like someone bypassed your fuse box. The next time you get a short your wires will get hot and burn up, possible catch on fire. When a fuse gets to many amps on it will heat up and blow a fuse, thats good. If it is hard wired then you have nothing to stop it from getting hot, thats bad. If you have a fuse that is always going out it is a sign of a bigger problem than a bad fuse. If bypassed it will equal potential disaster. I had a friend that bypassed his continued popping fuse and fried his steering column in his car. I would get that fixed!!!!!!!!
I dont know but this could contribute to your bat. going dead but dont know.

**flyingace** · 03-15-2007, 09:48 PM

Originally posted by stanski68

I have replaced my regulator and rectifier on my 79 gs1000e with an elecrex combo unit, my battery still eventually drained and had to be push started after a couple hundred miles. I got a new ,( to me at least), stator. I installed it and get 13.3 volts off, 13.5 at idle,13.7 at 5000 rpm and 13.10 with the light on high beam at 5000 rpm.
My question is do I have to worry? Will It die on me again?
I know I want 13.9 to 14.5 volts, is 13.7 close enough or do I have to find out the hard way.

Signed, I am sick of this I want a kick start.

PS under the left sidecover, next to the old regulator is a board with a fuse, it is all disconnected with no fuse in it, what is that?

Don't know about the fuse. But it sounds like you first replaced the R/R when you actually needed to replace the stator. If your battery drains, a kick start won't help you.

**Matt Vann** · 03-15-2007, 10:15 PM

I just fixed the same problem on my bike.

After some forum scrounging, I ran the test in the "stator papers" and found that my positive connections were bad. I replaced the terminals, a few wires and cleaned/replaced connections. It passed the test and runs fine.

**saddlewarmer** · 03-15-2007, 10:41 PM

Originally posted by stanski68

PS under the left sidecover, next to the old regulator is a board with a fuse, it is all disconnected with no fuse in it, what is that?

some bikes have an auxillary fuse holder to add an extra item to the bike (radio, fog lights, etc.) that may be the one you're talking about. probably won't have a fuse in it. little more info on location. look in a service manual also, should give info on this, no manual, goto www.repairmanualclub.com (?) and download a factory service manual or let me know and i can email you one in seperate chapters, total about 29 meg of text.

**jm_foote** · 03-16-2007, 01:53 PM

Not sure about the fuse holder.

13 volts should be plenty to keep your battery up.

Do the wires from the stator go directly to the r/r, or does one run off somewhere? If you have an electrix, you can send those directly to the r/r, as that wire that runs off sometimes causes problems (it was originally intended to cut one of the stator wires out to keep the r/r from overheating. Not a problem with the electrix).

But to answer your question, 13 volts is good enough so long as you are consistently getting over 13. If the voltage fluctuates at a constant rpm, then you have a problem. If the voltage falls below 13 volts you have a problem.

As always, make sure that you SOLDER YOUR CONNECTIONS. If you crimp, you deserve what is coming. Use dielectric grease on all your connectors. I ran the ground right from my r/r to my battery terminal as this leaves less room for error or a poor connection.

If it dies again, I would check the battery.

**SqDancerLynn1** · 03-17-2007, 02:53 AM

For safty you should have the headlight on at all times so you do not need
the stator winding to run thru the light switch. Just run it direct to the reg & add an extra ground cable from the reg mounting bolt to the (-) battery post will greatly improve the reliability of the system

**focus frenzy** · 03-17-2007, 10:01 AM

as a professional mechanic I would like to add that voltage is directly related to state of charge in the battery, the 13.9-14.5 volts is very good to see from a running engine with the battery fully charged.

if the battery was not fully charged (IE you just cranked the engine, or you didn't have it on charger long enough) the voltage you see will be lower as the voltage drops as the current (amps) going into the battery to charge it goes up.

ride it around for 15- 20 minutes and see what the voltage looks like.

**Road_Clam** · 03-17-2007, 10:14 AM

Originally posted by stanski68

I have replaced my regulator and rectifier on my 79 gs1000e with an elecrex combo unit, my battery still eventually drained and had to be push started after a couple hundred miles. I got a new ,( to me at least), stator. I installed it and get 13.3 volts off, 13.5 at idle,13.7 at 5000 rpm and 13.10 with the light on high beam at 5000 rpm.
My question is do I have to worry? Will It die on me again?
I know I want 13.9 to 14.5 volts, is 13.7 close enough or do I have to find out the hard way.

Signed, I am sick of this I want a kick start.

PS under the left sidecover, next to the old regulator is a board with a fuse, it is all disconnected with no fuse in it, what is that?

13.7 is barely marginal output voltage. I am putting out about 14.7 with a brand new Electrix stator, and R/R, and a brand new battery.

13.7 volts at 5000 rpm

13.7 volts at 5000 rpm

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