Stator Papers - Need Clarification Please!!!

[Steve]

Sounds like your meter is messed up on the AC Volts setting.

To verify that it does work, stick the leads in an electric socket in your house, see if you get something around 120 volts. If that test is OK, your bike is definitely in need of a stator.

The "using the chassis ground" refers to an incorrect way of measuring the stator output. When you are checking the DC voltage (battery, lights, ignition, etc.) you can connect one of your meter leads to the chassis, which is connected to the negative side of the battery. Since the stator is not grounded (hopefully), if you connect one meter lead to the chassis and the other to one of the stator wires, the reading will be meaningless as there is no connection there, and the voltage will just be "floating". That is why I specified just labeling the leads A, B, and C, then measuring A to B, etc. I was just trying to ensure that you were not using the chassis for your reference point.


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[Chuckster]

Steve,
Good idea on testing the AC voltage of my meter. I'm headed out of town tomorrow for the weekend, but I'll carry it with me and try that on an outlet. Let you know how it goes. Thanks again for your help.

-Chuck

[Chuckster]

Just checked my AC Voltage meter in the wall socket and it registers 120 volts. So I don't think anything is wrong with my meter.

[Chuckster]

Is it okay to run the black ground from my new Rick's r/r directly to the negative post on the battery? The bolt on the frame where the original black wire was grounded looks like it has some kind of rubber washer on it so how can that be a good ground? I had read about folks using "jumpers" but I didn't know if I had to run it to this original place and then to the battery or if I could just run my black wire directly like I mentioned.

[Steve]

Ultimately, that is the best place. It minimizes the number of connections through which current must pass. Each connection adds to the possibility of being a bad connection, so, the fewer the better.


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