1980 GS1000G performance questions.

[Jd Powell]

I have several performance questions about my 1980 GS1000G that I am hoping some of the grey beards out there can help me with. I have used the search feature but still have not found the answers.

1. Oil cooler;
Can I adapt an automotive type cooler?

Where do I tap in to the oil system?

Other than the volume of oil required are there
any other mods I will need to do?

2. 1100 over bore;
Concidering either a weisco 3mm overbore to 1100
or
Swapping the jugs and head from an 1100 any
advice would be apreciated also if I go with the
swap could I use a 16 valve head and jugs?

3. cams; Looking for high performance street cams that can
be used without building a full race motor

4. curiosity; there is some mention of turbos on this site. but I was
wondering if anyone had experienced adapting a
mechanical drive supercharger on a Gs epessialy
a G model I am tossing the idea around of running a low
6-10 lb boost supercharger

5. Phoenix Az; My pipes are purple halfway to my collector any advice for
making this bike run cooler in the desert and or monitoring
its running temp would be Greatly Apreciated.

Please feel free to e-mail or pm me I look forward to the stores of knowledge that the members of this site are known for. Thank You

[rphillips]

Those mods are way over my head, but the 1000"G" & 1000"E" engines are the same, so cams, coolers, turbos, & superchargers that work for one will work for the other.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The most serious part of your post is the purple pipes. Sounds like you're running very lean.
If stock intake/exhaust, the jetting's been changed or you have major air box sealing/intake leak issues or?
If intake/exhaust mods, you need to re-jet.

[Jd Powell]

carbs are stock and I belive jetting is also as the needles look like framing nails-definitly not a dyno jet kit

airbox; stock sealed well but if I induce even the slightest leak the bike hardley runs

Exhaust; wrapped out POS aftermarket 4-1 hate it. anybody know of a quality 4-2 unit for this bike?

[focus frenzy]

the bluing is perfectly normal on single wall aftermarket pipes, factory pipes are dual walled and bluing is not good with them.

oil coolers used on first generation GS (8 valve) use a adapter to intercept the oil flow from the pump at the oil flow sensor adapter doohickey behind the cylinders below the cam chain tensioner.

they can be difficult to find, a member here is making them on the side, unfortunately due to old age I can not remember who it was.

a turbo would be much simpler to do than a super charger due to the machining required to fabricate a drive system.

nothing is imposable but putting a 16 valve top end on a 8 valve bottom end would be quite difficult.

if you want 1100cc you have to ether go with the 3mm wiseco big bore or you have to use the crank, rods, pistons, and bore your cylinders 2mm over. suzuki stroked and bored to up the 1000 to 1100.

[dpep]

I would have some questions about making the extensive performance modifications you are mentioning on a shaft drive motorcycle. G models are designed to travel farthest not fastest. You are working to change the purpose of the bike instead of enhancing it as you would be with one of the 16 valve chain driven models.

The drive train power loss is greater for the shaft, and there is a lot more involved in replacing shaft components compared to chains. The spline cylinder in the rear wheel was changed to a softer composition for the teeth starting with the 1982 models. My guess is they were trying to put the weakest link in a component that was relatively inexpensive to replace. They tend to strip out at a little over 30,000 miles on average. Most owners prefer to get hold of one from a 79-81 model for replacement if they can; of course their bikes are almost always stock or close to it on power output. If you do make a large power increase you might want to stock in some of the softer 82+ spine cylinders and use them to protect the rest of train. I do not know what the second weakest link in the system is, and I would not want to find out myself.

If I were in your situation looking for increased performance I think I would sell the G model and apply the money toward purchase of an 1100 or 1150 16valve model. For the difference you would already have a performance improvement offered by some of the changes you mention probably with less cost and certainly less aggravation. And there is a wealth of performance enhancement experience on those bikes to draw from.

Now the oil cooler is a good idea. The adaptor attaches in place of the oil sensor plate behind the cylinders. There is someone on the thread who machines and sells one plus they (coolers and adapters) occasionally come up for sale here on GSR and on eBay. Do a search on oil cooler adapter here.

[Grandpa]

Just leave the GS1000G alone, or sell it to someone who will ride it and appreciate it for what it is. Don't try to make a fine touring bike like the 1000G into something it can't and won't be.

[Jd Powell]

thanks for the advice fellas, I am not trying to make a race bike I mostly ride it as a sport-tourer other than my daily commutes as it is my only transportation at the moment. As far as performance I am looking for one decent step up but with minimal risk of engine damage I know this bike will never hang with gixxers just want a livelier cruiser.(a mid 80's concours will smoke me in the mountains or on the highway)

[Grandpa]

thanks for the advice fellas, I am not trying to make a race bike I mostly ride it as a sport-tourer other than my daily commutes as it is my only transportation at the moment. As far as performance I am looking for one decent step up but with minimal risk of engine damage I know this bike will never hang with gixxers just want a livelier cruiser.(a mid 80's concours will smoke me in the mountains or on the highway)

Keep these items in mind:

1. The GS1000G is nothing but a mid-70's GS750. Double overhead cam, two valves per cylinder, with slightly larger bore and stroke and a shaft. The 1000G is actually a 1970's bike. It was the hot lick back then, but we're talking about 30 years ago.

2. The Concours first came out in 1986 as a Ninja with a shaft, slightly milder tuning, and touring equipment -- big fairing and bags. It had a "racy" heritage. It has a liter engine with 4 valves per cylinder, a la Ninja. In turn, the 20-year-old Concours is now outclassed by much more modern bikes like the FJR1300 Yamaha.

3. Is it surprising that a Concours will smoke a GS1000G in the mountains -- a bike based on a 1980's racer type, as opposed to an outdated 70's bike?

My Gold Wing and BMW, etc., friends will do the same to me. Their modern engines far surpass the capabilities of my GS1100GK. So what? I think of all the money I'm saving by continuing to ride my 23-year-old GK with 114K miles.
In the mountains I rev the hell out of it -- the only way it will keep up with the more modern bikes. I'm aware of the GK's limitations and am glad to live with them, given how much that bike gives me in return.

If you want to ride the GS1000G to its full potential, you'll leave it be. It sounds self-contradictory, but it's true. Don't mess with it. It's a charming old bike, reliable, steady, good handling, mildly tuned for distance; yet it's still a 70's bike whose limitations must be accepted. Love it or leave it.

Want to give the Concours more of a challenge in the mountains? Then get yourself at least a 16-valve GS, or perhaps another Concours. (If I had to replace my 1100GK today, I'd get a Concours. Trouble is, the GK just keeps running like the energizer bunny)

[Jd Powell]

Understood and recognized thank you.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Regardless of what some may say, "purple pipes half way to the header" is not normal for typical 4-1 exhausts. A slight amount of bluing for a few inches followed by some golding is normal. Any bike I've jetted with decent plug reads won't turn the pipes purple.
I'd like to see a pic if possible. Sounds lean to me. The pipe alone will lean you out and require a re-jet.

[Guest]

A good flowing pipe, pods, and a jet kit will give you probably all the extra performance you will want.

You will want an adapter as mentioned above for the oil pressure switch similar to this:






Terry from Australia is the member who makes and sells similar ones. They are quite nice.