%$#$@& headset bearings

[Fast Doc]

I have a '78 GS 750 that I am fixing up for touring duty as a bike for friends to ride when they visit.:grin:

I just replaced the headset bearings with a tapered bearing upgrade. The brand was Just Balls, or something like that.

I got the races in OK and undamaged, and I got the lower set installed with a plastic hammer and a wooden block.

The little paper that came with the bearings said to have a groove machined in the steering stem to let the bearings seat properly. I measured it all out with a vernier caliper and deemed this unnecessary. Granted I'm a doctor, not a machinist.8-[

I used the same technique for the upper set, but was unable to seat it all the way down, so I temporarily installed the lock nut, and torqued it down until it bottomed and would not tighten any more. I did this to seat the bearings.

The strange thing is that they felt perfect with that nut all the way down. No play or binding. This may be good, because they are not friction fit and I doubt I could remove them without damaging them.:neutral:

My plan is to finis assembling the front end and ride it.

What else if anything should I be doing?

TIA,

Bill

[rapidray]

Did you remember to grease the CRAP out of the bearings & races before you tightened everything? Ray.

[Fast Doc]

Did you remember to grease the CRAP out of the bearings & races before you tightened everything? Ray.

Yessiree Ray!:-D

[onchiman]

Hmmm....something seems strange here. You said you tightened the lock nut until it bottomed and were still able to move the steering head? Did you forget a washer or grease seal somewhere along the line maybe? Any upgrades to tapered bearings that I've done I have always been able to tighten the nut till the head was beginning to bind, then back it off from there. Since these things ten to loosen with time, how will you be able to adjust it if you're already bottomed? This just doesn't sound right to me. I think you should take it apart and see what's happening. Can you explain more about the groove that the directions mention? What direction does it go? Around the stem or up and down it? There must be a reason that the groove is needed. I wouldn't ride it until I figured it out. Steering is the last thing you want acting flakey on a bike.

[Fast Doc]

I'll see if I can scan and post a copy of the diagram. The directions were quite poor. The groove is circumferential.

I was not able to tighten it until it bound, but when tightened it was right on. I agree it does not sound right and leaves no room for adjustment...

[onchiman]

What's odd is that the groove is recommended for proper seating. I re-read your original post and it seems like there's a problem with the upper bearing. That bearing (unlike the lower bearing) must be able to freely move up and down on the stem. This allows the adjuster nut to pull the stem up when tightened thus compressing the bottom and top bearings in their races. You loosen the nut to un-compress them, that's how adjustment is accomplished. Once you get the bottom bearing on and feed the stem up through the steering tube, you simply drop the upper bearing onto the stem, no force required. So if you had to use a block and hammer to get the upper bearing on, something's wrong because that one is supposed to slide on with no binding. I think that's why they specify that circumferential groove. Can you call the company for support. Was it All Balls Racing? That's where I get my bearing kits from.

[BlackStar]

Was the brand "ALL BALLS" ?

[bonanzadave]

Once you get the bottom bearing on and feed the stem up through the steering tube, you simply drop the upper bearing onto the stem, no force required. So if you had to use a block and hammer to get the upper bearing on, something's wrong because that one is supposed to slide on with no binding.

I had to drive my upper All Ball race into the stem. Then the bearing just dropped into the race.

[Fast Doc]

Thanks so far guys.

The bearings are All Balls. The races tapped in pretty easily into the frame.

The lower bearing went onto the stem with a modest beating with a plastic hammer and a wooden block. It seated well though.

The upper bearing fit very snugly on the stem for the first 3/4 inch or so. Then I used the locknut to push it down the rest of the way.

I was able to tighten the locknut until it felt like it was all the way down. At that point the steering 'felt' perfect. No play, no binding.

Then when I loosened the bolt a little, nothing changed as the upper bearing was now friction fit.

To remove it I would have to use the plastic hammer and wooden block again.

I can't find the diagram.

WTF. Sometimes easy things are no so easy.

[onchiman]

Well just do as we all do and chalk it up to a learning experience. Sometimes you just gotta feel your way through. Something must have triggered your "spidey sense" about it.