help! got it together and it wont start

[ron bayless]

This may be obvious to you but do you have the valve cover off while turning it by hand/wrench? You might be able to see exactly what's causing it to bind up with the valve cover off.
And yes, just for a sanity check, you might want to set the cam chain tension really loose for hand/wrench turning test - just to eliminate it as a possible culprit.
Also, make sure the bike is in neutral (we've all made that mistake at least once).

Ha ha ha.That's funny.Yes I did try to start it first in gear.I turned the key hit the button and nothing.I was glad at least for a moment when i realized it was in gear.I just went out and rechecked the timing by hand.The motor was turned over 2 complete revolutions by me by hand and the timing marks come up right every time.If i took the tensioner almost off,had it really loose,that wouldnt hurt anything would it?Seems like it would only let the cam chain be loose,right?

[earlfor]

If the cam chain is sloppy lose, it could jump a tooth or even two, putting the cam timing out and bend a valve.

Earl

Ha ha ha.That's funny.Yes I did try to start it first in gear.I turned the key hit the button and nothing.I was glad at least for a moment when i realized it was in gear.I just went out and rechecked the timing by hand.The motor was turned over 2 complete revolutions by me by hand and the timing marks come up right every time.If i took the tensioner almost off,had it really loose,that wouldnt hurt anything would it?Seems like it would only let the cam chain be loose,right?

[Billy Ricks]

I may have missed this Ron, but when you installed the tensioner did you have the rod pushed back and the screw tightened down to keep it in place? If it was extended and installed then it is exerting too much pressure on the chain and they are made so they don't back out.

[crag antler]

Not too lead you too far off, but when I put mine back together I had put the fuel and vacuum lines in the wrong place. This led to me having fuel fill up the #2 cylinder.
What ended up making me realize this was when I first tried to start it by starter was that it turned over twice and then would go no more.
You can't compress liquid.
I don't know if this is your issue or not, but might be worth a look.
Once I got the lines going the right way, it took about 3-4 minutes before she fired right up.
Thankfully everything did turn out ok for me.

[ron bayless]

Not too lead you too far off, but when I put mine back together I had put the fuel and vacuum lines in the wrong place. This led to me having fuel fill up the #2 cylinder.
What ended up making me realize this was when I first tried to start it by starter was that it turned over twice and then would go no more.
You can't compress liquid.
I don't know if this is your issue or not, but might be worth a look.
Once I got the lines going the right way, it took about 3-4 minutes before she fired right up.
Thankfully everything did turn out ok for me.

No,i wish it was that though.My vacuum line goes to a spot by number 2 carbueretor.There is no way to get it in the wrong place,the fuel line is much bigger.I think the tensioner is the problem.I wont be able to find out for 2 more days since i am working nights.Thanks for the input.I appreciate all you guys help.

[Bikeman982]

Honda also won't start

I have a 1978 Honda CX500 that has a similar problem. It just won't start. I think the battery is bad, since it won't take a charge. When I used a car battery it turned over three times and that was all. Since then it won't even rotate. Any ideas??

[ron bayless]

I have a 1978 Honda CX500 that has a similar problem. It just won't start. I think the battery is bad, since it won't take a charge. When I used a car battery it turned over three times and that was all. Since then it won't even rotate. Any ideas??

i AM BEGINNING TO THINK MY PROBLEMS ARE possibly several related to my lack of assembly skills.I doubt you disassembled your bike.But,if you have done any of the following- put a new valve cover gasket on,replaced or rebuilt the cam chain tensioner if your bike has one,reinstalled the cams and their cam bearing caps,then the answer could be the same for all 3.They are too tight to let the motor turn freely.Also, a dead battery is easily remedied by a new one,but if you have a good battery that has been checked out as good by some auto shop and it wont hold a charge then you might have a stator problem.Also,i think all the motors have an oil pump,and if that goes so goes the engine.

[Suzuki mad]

Did you put new rings in?

Cam caps on the right sides?

All basic silly questions. You have the ability to do this so cut the cr*p. If it were a V10 race engine then yes maybe...

There is a simple answer to this that can be resolved.....

Ron have you cleared your PM box recently M8?

Suzuki mad.

[ron bayless]

Did you put new rings in?

Cam caps on the right sides?

All basic silly questions. You have the ability to do this so cut the cr*p. If it were a V10 race engine then yes maybe...

There is a simple answer to this that can be resolved.....

Ron have you cleared your PM box recently M8?

Suzuki mad.

YOU ARE DOUBLE COOL.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I didn't read every word but I'd first make sure the tensioner is torqued down correctly and then follow the simple tensioner action check in your manual. That will prove if it's operating right and then you'll have no worries about slipping a tooth, etc.
Then, and because you didn't mention it, I'd verify the engine to frame ground is clean/tight and then remove at least two plugs (one for each coil) and verify good spark. If good, then I'd make sure to prime the carbs and verify that fuel has entered in the correct quantity by removing the bowl drain bolts. Remember that your petcock requires engine cranking to allow fuel flow and just turning the petcock to prime and waiting a bit won't work. If good, then you know you have spark and fuel.

[robertbarr]

Remember that your petcock requires engine cranking to allow fuel flow and just turning the petcock to prime and waiting a bit won't work.

I don't understand this statement. Does the '80 1000L not have a Prime position on the petcock?

In any case, if the engine won't crank easily, NOW would be the time to determine what the problem is, not after you've let the engine destroy itself.

Have you done step 13 here?

http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

You said earlier that you can't turn the setscrew and locknut independently. Here's your text: "The cam tensioner thing didnt go like i think it should have.Loosened the lock nut,loosened the set screw 1 1/2 turns.Then when I tried tightening the lock nut the screw turns with it.I could never get the screw to stay still when i tried to tighten the nut."

OK -- remove the tensioner, remove the setscrew & locknut and straighten this out -- probably grungy threads. Clean & lube them so they DO turn independently, and THEN do step 13.

Pull the plugs. Turn the engine over by wrench. Does it turn freely? If so, this is a good time to do a compression check.

[ron bayless]

I don't understand this statement. Does the '80 1000L not have a Prime position on the petcock?

In any case, if the engine won't crank easily, NOW would be the time to determine what the problem is, not after you've let the engine destroy itself.

Have you done step 13 here?

http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

You said earlier that you can't turn the setscrew and locknut independently. Here's your text: "The cam tensioner thing didnt go like i think it should have.Loosened the lock nut,loosened the set screw 1 1/2 turns.Then when I tried tightening the lock nut the screw turns with it.I could never get the screw to stay still when i tried to tighten the nut."

OK -- remove the tensioner, remove the setscrew & locknut and straighten this out -- probably grungy threads. Clean & lube them so they DO turn independently, and THEN do step 13.

Pull the plugs. Turn the engine over by wrench. Does it turn freely? If so, this is a good time to do a compression check.

tHANKS MAN,APPRECIATE THE INFOR.i APPRECIATE ALL YOU GUYS' HELP.Sorry about the caps,i am at work.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I don't understand this statement. Does the '80 1000L not have a Prime position on the petcock?

And I'd tend to agree with you except the '80 factory manual states in the petcock operation/repair section that the engine must be cranking to initiate fuel flow when in the prime position.
I know the '80 "slot" petcock was an odd duck and I've never really bothered to study it myself. A prime position that requires vacuum doesn't make sense. Like it has two "on" positions.
I'm just stating exactly what the factory manual says must be done when priming. For all I know the manual could be wrong but I doubt that.
Regardless, I just want him to check the bowls for fuel.

[chef1366]

To prime the bowls with my 80 petcock I have to suck on the vacuum line once for the fuel to start to flow. I bet he hasn't primed his bowls either.

[ron bayless]

To prime the bowls with my 80 petcock I have to suck on the vacuum line once for the fuel to start to flow. I bet he hasn't primed his bowls either.

YOU ARE RIGHT CHEF.i havent primed anything,the motor wont turn over fast enough to worry about fuel.Thanks for the tip,i didnt realize i would even have to prime anything.I guess since the carbs laid in a box for a month that is reasonable,but i thought the petcock and the vacuum line would do that for me.Ron