2 Problems - Hard Hot Start & Black Knob under Carbs

**Dave8338** · 05-30-2007, 09:13 AM

AS far as the knob is concerned...it sounds like you have part of the cam chain tensioner in your hand! :shock: If that is the case, then yes, it has to go back together or be replaced! As for your starting issue, my guess is that it is a poor connection issue on the main ground from the battery to the engine block, just behind the starter...though, I'd check and clean all your grounds just to rule them out.

**robinsoncr** · 05-30-2007, 10:30 AM

Ok, I looked the part up on the web. It's just the plastic knob. Can the cam tensioner function without the knob?

What is the procedure for adjusting the cam chain?

Thanks,
Chris

**78GS550** · 05-30-2007, 11:08 AM

your problem with hard starting after the bike has warmed up could be that u have the wrong heat rated spark plug making it start hard when u have already been riding check with the auto parts store on the rating of the plug u might want a different rating depending on ur climate and running condition

**robertbarr** · 05-30-2007, 11:09 AM

It might help if you mentioned what bike you have.

Odds are that black knob is your idle adjustment knob.

**robinsoncr** · 05-30-2007, 12:26 PM

re: Hard hot starting - It doesn't want to turn over, as if the battery were low. Not that it's cranking and cranking.

re: The black knob - This is a 1982 Suzuki GS1100e. The knob is attached to a body that is attached to the motor, between the two middle cycliners.

It looks like the pictures for the cam shaft chain adjustment. I can't tell how the know was originally attached to the post with the nut. Is the black plastic knob itself, critical in ajustment of the cam chain tensioner or was it there, attached to the nut, so that you wouldn't have to use a socket and extension to turn the nut itself?

Thanks,

chris

**Calvin Blackmore** · 05-30-2007, 12:42 PM

Rather than anyone guessing what this knob is perhaps you could provide a photograph?

My timing chain adjuster is all metal and does not look much different than yours as pictured in the fich on bikebandit.

**robinsoncr** · 05-30-2007, 01:56 PM

Here is the picture of the parts from Bikebandit with description.

Now for the hard start. I'm beginning to believe that I'm not charging the battery properly. I'm not clear about where to test charging at idle and 4000 rpm. Do I check from battery pos to neg or is it somewhere else?

Thanks,
Chris

**robertbarr** · 05-30-2007, 02:17 PM

Here's the cam chain:

http://www.cycleorings.com/SU0062_015.gif

And here's the carb assy, with #57 being the idle adjustment knob:

http://www.cycleorings.com/SU0062_017.gif

The cam chain tensioner looks like any other you'd find on a GS with the thin metal knurled knob at the end.

**Red Rocket GS1100** · 05-30-2007, 03:00 PM

Not Metal on an 82 1100e

The cam chain knob IS plastic on an 82 GS 1100e. I keep watching mine cause it's got a crack in it but it is still holding tension on the spring...so I'm still okay (I think)
The cam chain tensioner is not working properly without that spring on there dude. I wouldn't run it without it. The plastic knob is what was holding that spring at tension.
Hard starts at heat could be lots of things. Low on oil would be one. I'm just guessing but maybe an improperly adjusted clutch would be another.

**Calvin Blackmore** · 05-30-2007, 03:13 PM

Maudit Tabernacle La

Do not run the bike without the Cam Chain adjuster being in proper order.
I can tfathom why Suzuki would put a plastic part to age and crack in such a high temp spot like the back of the cylinders.

Is The spring intact and still in place?

**twistedwankel** · 05-30-2007, 03:19 PM

Similar experience with starter when hot.

Originally posted by robinsoncr

Hey guys,

Question2: The bike is hard to start after getting hot. Sounds like a low battery (is new). If I let it sit and cool off a few minutes, it fires right up. In the mornings, with half choke, it fires and runs on first crank.

After installed the new battery, I took my trusty Fluke multimeter and checked the battery from post to post with ignition off- Read 12.4v-dc.

At idle, it read about 13v-dc and at 4000rpm, it read about 13.4v. Am I correct in checking this way? I read the stator papers but I wasn't totally clear on where I should be checking at idle and 4000rpm.

I was wondering if it could be the starter motor? Otherwise, the bike is running like a top!

Precisely what my 81 GS750E has done for the 2 years I've had it. less than 25k miles now. Your voltage readings approximate mine also. I now get 13.5V @ 2000rpm since replacing my bad stator with yet another used one. Next one will be either new or a rewind. Only when the engine is very hot is there any problem!! Like a 90F day in only city driving. You might try pushing the starter button a couple short bursts. Part of the problem other than heat and friction I believe is a bad spot on the starter motor only when very hot. I know mine has a dead spot in it as a short slow roll and pop the clutch and it will start instantly no matter how hot the engine is or how low the battery. I cleaned all the electrical connections but made no difference. I have another used starter but it really isn't an issue yet. I never replaced the brushes either. If I leave it sit for only 5 minutes at the gas station it cools off enough to not be a problem. Need to stretch my legs anyhow after riding that much in the City heat. Never been a problem at higher speed riding.

**robinsoncr** · 05-30-2007, 04:20 PM

Ok, I have cleaned the little plastic knob and I'm going to put the insert back in and hold it with a set screw. How do I make sure that the cam chain is adjusted correctly? Other than insuring that the spring has tension on the shaft.

I'm going to check the clutch adjustment. But it does the same thing even in neutral. I changed the oil last Friday and made sure that the proper volume was added.

Thanks,
Chris

**robinsoncr** · 05-31-2007, 01:23 PM

Just an update. I couldn't find a set screw small enough to use on the plastic knob. So, I cleaned both parts and epoxied together. It's holding fine for now. Later when I have some free time, I think I'll make a new one on the cnc.

Regarding the hard hot start. I retested the charging system and it's working correctly. I checked the clutch adjustment and is disengaging correctly. So, after riding it to the shop. I shut it down and then immediately tried to start it like normal. Would hardly turn over. Then I bumped the start button twice real fast then pressed and started the bike right up. Sounds like it's a deadspot on the starter. Can the starter be rebuilt like a car/truck? If so, I have a distant cousin that has a starter/alternator rebuilding business. He rebuilt my brothers starter off his Dodge diesel for about $30 and was better than new. And has now lasted about 150k miles longer than the original! Might need to give him a call.

Thanks everyone.
Chris

**SqDancerLynn1** · 05-31-2007, 03:08 PM

The can chain tensioner needs IMEDIATE attention. Battery should read closer to 14 V. I could be just calabration of your meter. Check it on your car ?. Add a ground cable from the reg mounting bolt to the (-) battery terminal for good ground. Slow cranking when hot indicates possible worn
starter brushes

2 Problems - Hard Hot Start & Black Knob under Carbs

2 Problems - Hard Hot Start & Black Knob under Carbs

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