Oil Leak (with pics)

[zx7]

zx7, I am a little confused, is the oil leaking into the starter well? I would be sure it isn't leaking from the base gasket or above. One of my 650g (like yours) was leaking from about everywhere and made it difficult to determine source. I am still dealing with a seeping oil pan gasket as well as gear shifter shaft seal.

Since my tranny failure, I have resurrected my 650 parts bike and the other is sitting in back of garage where I could take a look to see how bad it is to get starter out. I doubt you will have room to pull out starter without pulling carbs. Pulling carbs is not too difficult, putting them back is the fun...

That's a good point.

I am going on the assumption that the starter well should not have any oil in it. It is a little hard to see in the pic, but the oil is coming out by the starter cover. The previous day to the pic I had that area sparkling clean with engine cleaner and that pic was the result of about 130 -150 km drive.

The hole in the second pic is what I believe the starter well drains to (got that info from another thread).

It is possible that the oil pan gasket is seeping as well as oil gets all over down there.

I think the gear shifter shaft seal (I assume you mean the shaft that runs from the piece you actually use your foot to shift - excuse my lack of knowledge ) is dry.

I guess I will fix the leak by the starter first and go from there...and hope that is the only one. [-o<

Thanks a lot for your help.

[zx7]

I just replaced the starter on my 79 GS850 without pulling the carbs. I also have a Pacifico Shadow Classic fairing with lowers mounted on the bike. It IS a tight fit but can be done. Use a 10mm socket for the bolts that hold the starter in. I used a deep well socket then switched to a regular depth with an extention.
Good Luck

Scott

Thanks. That gives me a little hope that I can avoid pulling the carbs. It looks like there is enough room, but it will be tight.

Thanks for your help.

[waterman]

Just came in from garage; while I won't say that the starter can't be removed without pulling carbs, I do think it would be much easier with the carbs out. I see a couple of clearance issues, mainly the position of the cam chain tensioner. It will take a very short extension or an intermediate length deep well socket to go on straight for starter bolts. A swivel socket may give you a chance. I think you may have trouble getting it out once bolts are removed. Give it a try, can't hurt too much.

If you go the carb removal route, just use a good quality philips screwdriver on the band clamps so that you can tighten them upon reassembly without slippage. I like to use drywall bits since they tend to grip the screws tightly. Don't forget to loosen the clamp that connects air plenum to air filter airbox, this will give you clearance to slide carbs towards rear to aid removal.

If you need assistance with carb removal, just ask. I am sure many of us can assist with hints and tips. Big decision is whether you think the leaking oil is worth the hassle to tear apart right now. If it is only a small leak, I would live with it until a nice rainy weekend.

[speedzter2000]

zx7...
I had to pull the starter from my 550...You dont have to completely remove the carbs, or the cam tensioner...Hopefully, you have small hands. The biggest PITA was getting out the 10mm bolts that hold the starter down.
Loosen the rubber boot bolts on the carbs, and wiggle them back, and maybe to the side (if I recall correctly).
Make sure you've disconnected the battery as well before you do all this...(should have put that first).
Anyway, take pics of the carbs before, and of each thing you are doing. You are not turning any screws, etc on the carbs, so that shouldn't be an issue. It is BEST to pull the carbs to save yourself the headache, as well as busted up knuckles. It will also save you a lot of time trying to work around things.
Good luck!:-D

[zx7]

Just came in from garage; while I won't say that the starter can't be removed without pulling carbs, I do think it would be much easier with the carbs out. I see a couple of clearance issues, mainly the position of the cam chain tensioner. It will take a very short extension or an intermediate length deep well socket to go on straight for starter bolts. A swivel socket may give you a chance. I think you may have trouble getting it out once bolts are removed. Give it a try, can't hurt too much.

If you go the carb removal route, just use a good quality philips screwdriver on the band clamps so that you can tighten them upon reassembly without slippage. I like to use drywall bits since they tend to grip the screws tightly. Don't forget to loosen the clamp that connects air plenum to air filter airbox, this will give you clearance to slide carbs towards rear to aid removal.

If you need assistance with carb removal, just ask. I am sure many of us can assist with hints and tips. Big decision is whether you think the leaking oil is worth the hassle to tear apart right now. If it is only a small leak, I would live with it until a nice rainy weekend.

Thanks for the tips on the carb removal. Like you said, I think I will try first without removing the carbs and if needed I will then remove them. Good tip to know about the clamp that connects air plenum to air filter airbox - it does look like everything there is a tight fit.

The leak is a bit of a nuisance as it makes quite the mess - you can see from the pic that the exhaust already has quite a bit of burnt on oil that will be fun to clean off. After 300 - 400 km the level drops to about midway between the High and Low level markings on the oil sight glass...

One question though, if I do take it apart this weekend and end up not finding the correct o-ring at the auto parts store can I put it back in with the old o-ring (I know it will result in some wasted time on my part)? Will the worst case scenario be that it just continues to leak...?

Thanks a bunch for your help - I may be requesting carb assistance this week-end! :-D

[zx7]

zx7...
I had to pull the starter from my 550...You dont have to completely remove the carbs, or the cam tensioner...Hopefully, you have small hands. The biggest PITA was getting out the 10mm bolts that hold the starter down.
Loosen the rubber boot bolts on the carbs, and wiggle them back, and maybe to the side (if I recall correctly).
Make sure you've disconnected the battery as well before you do all this...(should have put that first).
Anyway, take pics of the carbs before, and of each thing you are doing. You are not turning any screws, etc on the carbs, so that shouldn't be an issue. It is BEST to pull the carbs to save yourself the headache, as well as busted up knuckles. It will also save you a lot of time trying to work around things.
Good luck!:-D

HA - good point about the battery; that is something I would have completely overlooked! I have a lot of experience with that as last year I had the misfortune of having the bolt that locks the steering column 'lock up' on me last year at work (an hour from home) with no tools (ran to a few of the nearest houses to borrow some tools to remove the switch so I could get her started and home). Anyway, it was towards the end of the season, so I just finished riding it by connecting and disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery for the remainder of the year (how annoying BTW).

Thanks for your help.

[zx7]

The o-ring is a standard metric size -- if you can find an auto parts store that sells metric o-rings, you can find an exact replacement. Bring the starter with you, or measure the groove with calipers if you have them.

Removing and replacing the carbs is much easier than you think it is, and the added room to maneuver and reduced frustration will be well worth the extra few minutes involved to pull the carbs. Overall, you'll likely save time by pulling the carbs first.

By the way, exactly what sort of motorcycle is that? I don't believe it's mentioned.

I called the local NAPA and the guy said they sell them according to some number 19, 29 etc. but that number did not correspond to a measurement (ie 15mm). I asked them if they sold metric sized o-rings and that is the answer he gave :?...so does that mean they are metric or not? I am wondering if I can bring in the old o-ring and get a match that way...?

Thanks.