A few questions,electrical and oil light

[ron bayless]

I just rebuilt the top end on my 80 gs 1000L.I didnt rering it.Have about 150 miles on motor now,runs great.Today,i got gas,went to restart bike,everything was dead.No neutral light,headlight,nothing.I eventually found a way to get it going but not sure of what to do next.I jiggled all the fuses back and forth and the bike started back up and everything worked.The bike suddenly did it again.Once more did the fuse thing.Finally it stayed on till I got home and was still working when i got there.Question:
1.Is all I need to do is clean all the contact points where the fuses go and use some dielectric grease and maybe replace all the fuses?
2.For some reason the poil light was flickering on and off.It has done this before.Once the sensor which is located down on the lower crankcase about just below carb#4 had some sort of connection problem with the wires that push onto it.But now, that wire isnt even connected because the male prongs on the sensor broke off when I pulled the cylinder block off somehow.The bike makes no mechanical noises other than the usual.The light doesnt have any pattern except it never comes on when I am at highway speeds.I am thinking a defective dash light.All input as usual will be greatly appreciated.

[Steve]

Cleaning the contacts and replacing the fuses sounds like a good place to start. Also make sure that the input wire to the fuse box has good connections on both ends. I have seen some that have a riveted connection in the fuse box, and also need to follow the large wire that feeds it to make sure it has a secure connection. Actually, there should be two wires that feed the fuses. The MAIN and ACC fuses come straight from the battery, the others have a larger wire that comes from the ignition switch.

When the bike died, did you have other things that worked, like lights and/or horn? If something worked, I would concentrate on the circuit that died. If everything died, check the main feed or even the ignition switch.

Can't help with the oil light.


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[Guest]

Wire in another oil sensor wire.
I just went through all the stator, battery and R/R wires and soldered them to get rid of those old bullet connectors.
Clean those fuse contacts and get new fuses. Don't be shy with that dielectric grease.

[ron bayless]

[QUOTE=Steve;648067]Cleaning the contacts and replacing the fuses sounds like a good place to start. Also make sure that the input wire to the fuse box has good connections on both ends. I have seen some that have a riveted connection in the fuse box, and also need to follow the large wire that feeds it to make sure it has a secure connection. Actually, there should be two wires that feed the fuses. The MAIN and ACC fuses come straight from the battery, the others have a larger wire that comes from the ignition switch.

When the bike died, did you have other things that worked, like lights and/or horn? If something worked, I would concentrate on the circuit that died. If everything died, check the main feed or even the ignition switch.

Can't help with the oil light.


.[/QUOT

I took the sidecover off and could make the starter turn over with a pair of pliars across the terminals,but with no ignition that wouldnt do anything.No,absolutely no lights indicators,nothing worked.Then after jiggling all the fuses it worked again.This failure repeated itself about 3 times,then i was able to get home.I suspect all my attempts and reattempts got whatever minimal amount of corrosion off to allow enough current through the ignition system for a while.I have never replaced an ignition switch.I suspect it is a plug and play type connection?

[ron bayless]

Wire in another oil sensor wire.
I just went through all the stator, battery and R/R wires and soldered them to get rid of those old bullet connectors.
Clean those fuse contacts and get new fuses. Don't be shy with that dielectric grease.

yeah, I am going to do that kind of stuff too.Out of all the things these bikes can do that is one thing i have never had before was a dead panel.I would imagine in 27 years that fuse panel has never been cleaned or greased.What next? My clutch slips a littl when i get on it hard in 4th gear,guess i will be replacing that next.Dang!!

[Steve]

My clutch slips a littl when i get on it hard in 4th gear,guess i will be replacing that next.Dang!!

Wanna fix your clutch cheap?

It will cost you just a few bucks for the gasket and the cost of 6 or 12 washers. If it is just starting to slip under extreme circumstances, it's probably weak springs, rather than worn plates. Pull the cover, remove one of the springs, install a washer to shim in and put it back in. Repeat for the other springs, then re-install the cover with a new gasket. One washer should be enough, but have a second one ready if it's not.

If you want to spend just a bit more money, new springs are only $2.44 each at Bike Bandit.


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[ron bayless]

Wanna fix your clutch cheap?

It will cost you just a few bucks for the gasket and the cost of 6 or 12 washers. If it is just starting to slip under extreme circumstances, it's probably weak springs, rather than worn plates. Pull the cover, remove one of the springs, install a washer to shim in and put it back in. Repeat for the other springs, then re-install the cover with a new gasket. One washer should be enough, but have a second one ready if it's not.

If you want to spend just a bit more money, new springs are only $2.44 each at Bike Bandit.


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Man that is good stuff to know.Thanks a lot Steve.

[Suzuki mad]

It also depends on what type of oil you put into your engine. Ran Semi synthetic for a few weeks on a good GS1000e and the clutch started to slip for no reason at 6,000rpm. Went back to mineral oil and the clutch slowly stop slipping! I'd stripped it down to check all the parts so I knew it was good then changed the clutch cable just in case. Bought new clutch springs before doing the work as they are so cheap.

If you unscew the fuse panel from the main wiring panel you will probably find that the conectors are starting to or have corroded away.

As for the oil light, get a small banjo connector and replace the original one. Might be an idea to remove a little of the old wiring as it may have become brittle after years of getting hot. Its unlikely that its the panel end at fault as you say that there is a poor connection.

Suzuki mad

[ron bayless]

It also depends on what type of oil you put into your engine. Ran Semi synthetic for a few weeks on a good GS1000e and the clutch started to slip for no reason at 6,000rpm. Went back to mineral oil and the clutch slowly stop slipping! I'd stripped it down to check all the parts so I knew it was good then changed the clutch cable just in case. Bought new clutch springs before doing the work as they are so cheap.

If you unscew the fuse panel from the main wiring panel you will probably find that the conectors are starting to or have corroded away.

As for the oil light, get a small banjo connector and replace the original one. Might be an idea to remove a little of the old wiring as it may have become brittle after years of getting hot. Its unlikely that its the panel end at fault as you say that there is a poor connection.

Suzuki mad

Thanks buddy,good information.