broken screw and extractor Please Help!

[Zooks]

I agree with the welding option. I have done it dozens (literally) of times.

I have a series of old screwdrivers that I keep for this purpose. You need to weld the tip of the screwdriver to the end of the bolt with a good HOT blast of the mig. Allow it to cool for quite a while (20 mins or more) and it should come free. Just gently jiggle the screwdriver initially back and forth (clockwise/anticlockwise) 1 or 2 degrees until it starts to work loose. By gently teasing it back and forth (with the old screwdriver attached) it will come out. In over 20 years of working on vintage cars, trucks and bikes this routine has worked every single time.

Make sure you weld the screwdriver (a long old bolt will do) on at a bit of an angle so you can get good leverage. Just make sure it will spin within the work area.

[zodeo]

The welding idea makes perfect sense and I am sure that it would work, however I don't have the resources for that endeavor(no Mig welder).
Anybody in the LA SFV area have a mobile welding machine that would want to give it a try?
If not, I will try the drill and see what happens. I will let you know.

[jlgace]

Quite often after I've broken an easy out (not sure if I've ever had one actually do it's job), when I start to drill at slow speed it will extract itself, because it's backwards threaded and you're drilling clockwise. Alternately, you can try putting a slot in the easy out with a dremel and screwing it out. Your main objective is to get the easy-out removed. If you can accomplish that, then you have a good shot at removing the original bolt as the easy-out will have compromised it. I like a torch. Nothing like a couple of good heating/cooling cycles to loosen a stuck fastener. You can also try slotting what's left of the screw with a narrow chisel or just go ham-fisted and pound your non-favourite flat screwdriver in there. Then heat with the torch and see if you're lucky. Everything I said about a torch is at your own risk. It's your engine. Oh, and it's the area around the bolt that you want to heat. You want the bolt to stay as cool as possible. Screwdriver or whatnot may help as a heatsink. Ideally you don't want to heat the bolt at all. And of course if this doesn't work and/or you trash the threads, you'll need to drill/tap anyway. Main obstacle is the easy-out. A good habit with aluminum heads or cases is a dab of anti-seize on your bolts to prevent this mess in the future.

[smagnusen]

One more option I can think of: the easy outs are hard but brittle. You may be able to break it up with a few good punch strikes. If you can you might be able to pick out the pieces - dental tool etc . I seem to remember doing this once.

You can then drill and retap. If these are 6mil bolts you may consider tapping quarter 28. This is very close in size and the bolt should even make it through the boot hole.

When you do put this back together, don't overtighten. Pay attention to the torque specs. These bolts don't go on as hard as you may think.

[t3rmin]

One more option I can think of: the easy outs are hard but brittle. You may be able to break it up with a few good punch strikes. If you can you might be able to pick out the pieces - dental tool etc . I seem to remember doing this once.

I tried that once and then also broke the tip of the punch off in the hole. :shock:

[zodeo]

Has anyone ever tried a HIGH SPEED STEEL drill bit? I was doing some research on the High Carbon Steel make up of the E Z out. There was mention That The HSS bits are about the same strenght at low temps, but at high temps the HSS has the advantage.

[Greg O.]

Screw extractors are often called "easy outs" I call them "hard outs" Nothing easy about them. The welding idea is a good one. I have used this method many times. Sometimes I might have to weld several nuts on as they keep breaking off, but everytime you weld it the stud gets warmed up, then cools off. In time this will loosen it enough you will be able to turn the stud out with the nut.

GregO

[zodeo]

Success!!! sort ofhttp://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/images/smilies/icon_neutral.gifWhat A Pain!
After hours of drilling chipping I finally got through the E Z OUT. Those things need to come with a warning.
Anyways after a half day working on it I finally started to see metal shavings on the paper placed below the hole and not from the drill bit. So in my excitement I continued to drill. Now there is a hole, the one problem is hat it's not on center whith the existing hole, it's about 1-2mm off center and the original screw meterial is still in there. The Good news is the hole is smaller then the screw so I shuold be able to tap it, Bad news is the boot hole doesn' exactly line up so I will have to do some fudging. I am gonna take the day off and access the situation so I don't go at it Ham fisted and make more mistakes.
I am gonna start a new post("Now what?") and add some pics to give you all an accurate idea of what I am dealing with now. I really need to get some opinions from the experts on this one.
thanks again
Z

[Nessism]

You need to straighten out the hole before you go for the next larger drill bit. You can try to do that by drilling on an angle but take your time. One popular technique I've heard is to buy an opposite direction drill bit - you will need a reversable drill. The bit will bite into the bolt stub and might well spin it out.

Oh, and good judgement on taking your time and studying the situation.

[gremlin]

you may be able to remove the original screw meterial, if you carfuly trun it. if your just a bit off center then it may of releved the pressure. it may be worth a shot to check. use a pick and push gently.

[zodeo]

Well I tapped the hole and I think it's gonna work. I tried the install of the boot and it lined up perfectlyhttp://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif. So I'm going to leave whatever is left of the original screw where it is. The new screw( 6mm Hex head)fits in nice and snughttp://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif. I feel great about it,
YOU PEOPLE ARE THE BEST!!!!
Z

[t3rmin]

Congrats!

Make sure to use lots of red loctite and crank it down real tight now! :-D

[Nessism]

Congrats!

Make sure to use lots of red loctite and crank it down real tight now! :-D

No reason for extreme measures. Red loctite is for permanent bonds. Simply install a new screw and torque it down normal.

[Billy Ricks]

No reason for extreme measures. Red loctite is for permanent bonds. Simply install a new screw and torque it down normal.

And use some anti-sieze compound on the bolts so you don't go through this again.

[Nessism]

And use some anti-sieze compound on the bolts so you don't go through this again.

Agree! :-D