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GS1000G - Carb Jetting

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  • salty_monk
    replied
    Might just switch it out for an in-box K&N if I can find one. Z1 doesn't list them.
    That will lean it out slightly right across the range & then switch the mains to get the WOT back in range. That's the plan anyhow!

    Pods might be overkill but I'm going to try it here with no filter in first & check the plugs. If they read ok & it rides ok I'll just switch straight to pods.

    Kent told me he has a 115 stock jet in his with 4:1 & in box K&N. Seems Pods make the biggest difference.

    I also want to here Keith's thoughts on it first too.

    Dan

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  • chef1366
    replied
    I'd throw a 117.5 main jet and ride it. You can also clean that Uni filter and oil it. It looked a little dirty.

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  • Billy Ricks
    Guest replied
    Here are the specs for stock jetting.
    Specs in mm.
    Carb Type- Mikuni BS34SS
    Bore Size-34 mm
    ID# - 49160
    Idle r/min - 1050 +/- 100 r/min
    Fuel Level - 5.0 +/- 0.5
    Float Height - 22.4 +/- 1.0
    Main Jet - #115
    Main Air Jet - 1.7
    Jet Needle - 5D57-3rd
    Needle Jet - X-8
    Pilot Jet - #40
    Bypass - 0.9, 0.8, 0.8
    Pilot Outlet - 0.7
    Valve Seat - 2.0
    Starter Jet - #45
    Pilot Screw -Pre-Set
    Pilot air jet - #160
    Throttle Cable Play - 0.5-1.0
    Choke Cable Play - 0.5-1.0

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  • salty_monk
    replied
    Originally posted by Joe Nardy View Post
    Further info:

    Keith is without a doubt the man to talk to about this. He'll have your bike running like a top if you do as he says.

    Thanks,
    Joe
    He's local too I think.... I'm all ears

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  • Tom MLC
    Guest replied
    Dan, you know at altitude my bike ran like a tired dog too. She did well around Yosemite, and also the Tahoe & Virginia City run. But anywhere above 8,000 feet and she just had no power.

    Unless you're planning another trip to higher regions, you probably will want to set your carbs to the local conditions. I'm curious to see what advice you get here. I need to learn more about CV carbs so I can work on my GS1100.

    BTW, those stock pipes might fetch a handsome bounty on ebay. They look like they might clean up pretty well. Wait until the winter then put 'em up on ebay. A couple hundred bucks is not unreasonable.

    I had an excellent weekend riding with you & others. Thanks for the chance to meet you & make new friends. If you're ever up in San Jose, please let me know.

    Cheers,

    Tom

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  • Joe Nardy
    replied
    Further info:

    I rode Dan's bike for a short while around Bruce's house (keep in mind that this is at about 5500 feet. Dan lives at sea level). It runs and pulls strong from idle to about 1/2 throttle. At that point it begins to surge. At full throttle it bogs and loses power. Backing off from full throttle increases pull. The idle and pilot circuits seem okay. We suspected rich main jets and possible rich needles too.

    We removed the air filter and left the sides off of the airbox. Dan took it for a ride and said it ran much better at higher throttle positions. BUT, it ran poorly at lower throttle settings. This makes some sense as the low end jetting was pretty good. Removing the air filter made it run too lean. The mid-to-top end jetting was previously too rich and leaning it out made it run better at these ranges. This seems to verify our suspicion of rich main jets and possible rich needles.

    Keith is without a doubt the man to talk to about this. He'll have your bike running like a top if you do as he says.

    Thanks,
    Joe

    Leave a comment:


  • salty_monk
    started a topic GS1000G - Carb Jetting

    GS1000G - Carb Jetting

    So far I know it was way Rich at Bruce's (you could smell it) & I couldn't use more than half throttle (it wouldn't go any faster at wider throttle opening & when you backed off it would surge forward). It did run well at up to half throttle though.

    It has a stock 4 - 2 exhaust & a "Uni" foam filter.

    It ran well at Bruce's (5000 feet & hot) without the filter or side covers on the box but seemed to have a flat spot on lesser throttle positions although I didn't run it for long.

    On the way back it seemed to come to life in Sacramento when we got under 2,000 feet & cooler temps.

    Here at sea level it runs much better but is still surgy at WOT & gas mileage is not that good (max 40mpg on a run, generally 30-35mpg)

    The carbs were cleaned just before I bought it & here's what it says on the receipt:

    Replace main jet to 122.5
    Drill slide to close faster
    Mixture screws 3 turns out
    Needle move up 2 steps (from this I guess it has a Dynojet kit fitted otherwise there shouldn't be any steps.....)

    Last time I pulled the plugs they seemed ok to me, possibly a little rich but I'd just been running around town & parked it, I did nothing special beforehand.

    I haven't done any chop tests yet.

    I haven't opened up the carbs yet to see what is actually in there.

    I'll try it with no filter here up & down the street sometime soon & open the carbs up for a look at what's there. (Never opened these before but I've messed with some webbers)

    It seems to me that if I go back to stock mains & move the needle back down it will probably be somewhere close.

    I guess I'll need to buy or borrow a set of synch gauges too.

    My other option is to get a K&N in box or pods & 4-1 pipe to lean it out that way. The pipe is on it's way out anyway but I do have the option of buying another stock set (but maybe I'll sell those & go 4-1 anyway.....)

    Dan
    Last edited by salty_monk; 07-19-2007, 02:02 PM.
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