How to torque the head bolts

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • stp1stp

    #1

    How to torque the head bolts

    I'm about to fire up my bike after completely rebuilding the engine. I torque the head bolts to specs using a clicking tourque wrench.

    Somebody told me that you have to retorque the bolts after the engine gets hot. Is this true or that just a opinion? I hate to put the valves cover on and have to take it right back off.

    Should I even used gasket sealent for the cover? It is a new thick one.
  • Suzuki mad

    #2
    Cylinder head should be torqued up after about 500 miles or so miles, just enough time to bed down. Its more important to torque them in sequence!

    There's two lines of thought on the rocker box gasket. Some will say use sealer other say not. I'm a not man!

    At the end of the day its your choice.

    Suzuki mad

    Comment

    • Guest

      #3
      Also check valve clearance after 500 miles.

      Comment

      • Nessism
        Forum LongTimer
        GSResource Superstar
        Past Site Supporter
        Super Site Supporter
        • Mar 2006
        • 35788
        • Torrance, CA

        #4
        Put the gasket on dry and you "may" get lucky and get the valve cover off without damaging the gasket for your 500-800 mile valve check and head bolt retorque. To torque the bolts you should loosen them slightly first and then bring them back up to proper torque.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment

        • DimitriT
          Forum Guru
          Past Site Supporter
          • Sep 2005
          • 9897
          • USA

          #5
          Both the torquing and the valve clearance should be done on a stone cold motor (sitting at least 24 horus).

          Comment

          • stp1stp

            #6
            I'll check the valves tomorrow. I went ahead a put the cover on with a dry gasket. Bike started right up. Sounds good, still need to adjust the crabs.

            Also need 4 new bolts on the cover at the end of the cam shafts with the gaskets.

            I'll tell everybody this,,,one of the best things I bought this bike is the 4 hose outlets on the air box and the 4 intake boots. The carbs gave me hell every time I tried to put it back on the bike.
            This time the carbs slid right on the air box. Real good seal. And the intake boots slid right on with no problems.

            There was a really good carb sync info link posted on one of these threads. If anybody knows what I am talking about can you point me in the right direction.

            Thanks,
            stp1stp

            Comment

            • Guest

              #7
              bwringer's carb sync

              Comment

              • Guest

                #8
                I use gasket tach and "glue" the gasket on the valve cover itself. Let it set up before installing. I have reused the same gasket at least ten times.

                Comment

                • stp1stp

                  #9
                  Thanks for the link. That Colortune tool sounds awesome. Low on cash right now but as soon as I can I'm going to get one.
                  Thanks,
                  stp1stp

                  Comment

                  Working...