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Adjusting valves on a 16 valve engine

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    Adjusting valves on a 16 valve engine

    I bought a 1981 GS750E a couple of months ago. I woke up this morning with the intention of adjusting my valves, so I did a little research on the forum (I don't have the manual for the 750 but I do have one for the 550) and found that my bike does not use any shims. I got this info from a post by "Tkent02"

    Here's how you want the cams positioned for adjusting. With the crankshaft at the T mark on the signal generator and the notches in the cams facing away from each other you adjust the intake and exhaust valves on #1, EX on #2, and IN on #3. Then rotate the crank to the T mark with the notches in the cams facing each other. You'll adjust IN on #2, EX on #3, and IN and EX on #4.
    Does this apply to my bike? and are the clearances the same as with the 550? (.03mm - .08mm - if I remember correctly)

    I actually found a 4mm square nut this morning, I read somewhere that I would need one. I have all my tools ready, I just need verification on the specs and process lol

    Thanks a million.

    #2
    see if you can download a free manual at http://www.repairmanualclub.com

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      #3
      Hey thanks for the link. I'm actually downloading the gs750 manual (don't know if it is the right year) as we speak. I also already have the valve cover open so I hope I can get some info soon to get this going lol...

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        #4
        I don't have a 16v engine but the valve clearance specs you note are for 8v engines - 16v is greater but i don't know how much.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #5
          The procedure is as noted. I'm not sure about the clearances on your bike, but on my 1150 (16 valve with tappets) it shows the clearance at 0.08 - 0.13 mm or .003-.005 in.
          85 GS1150E May '06 BOM
          79 GS1000S Wes Cooley Beast





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            #6
            Yea the procedure is as noted and the clearance is 0.09-0.13mm (0.004-0.005in) for 750cc TSCC engines

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              #7
              Thanks guys for the info. I've never adjusted the valves on this thing. I assume that I have to lossen the bolt on each valve, while holding the small square bolt in place with the 4mm nut... then loosen or tighten (the same amount of turns??) each valve accordingly until it is in spec. Does that make sense?

              I accidentally canceled the download for the manual and had to restart it; it is going to take another hour or so.

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                #8
                Originally posted by bexabarr View Post
                Thanks guys for the info. I've never adjusted the valves on this thing. I assume that I have to lossen the bolt on each valve, while holding the small square bolt in place with the 4mm nut... then loosen or tighten (the same amount of turns??) each valve accordingly until it is in spec. Does that make sense?

                I accidentally canceled the download for the manual and had to restart it; it is going to take another hour or so.
                you loosen the locknut and turn the square until the clearance is within spec and you tighten the locknut without letting the square nut turn, the clearance, out of spec.

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                  #9
                  I'm having a killer time trying to loosen the 9mm locknuts... they barely budge.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by bexabarr View Post
                    Thanks guys for the info. I've never adjusted the valves on this thing. I assume that I have to lossen the bolt on each valve, while holding the small square bolt in place with the 4mm nut... then loosen or tighten (the same amount of turns??) each valve accordingly until it is in spec. Does that make sense?
                    First, you should use a pair of feeler gauges, one under each adjuster so that the forked rocker does not cock to the side and give you a false reading. You loosen the locknut and adjust the screw so that a 0.005" feeler is a snug slide out. The best description I have seen is that it is like pulling a piece of paper out of the middle of a thick book closed on it. Remember, looser clearances are much better than tighter. I don't even check mine very closely anymore, I just loosen them off and reset to 0.005" every time.

                    The locknuts can be a bear to get off, all right. I remember the first time I did my 1100, I swore a lot at the PO who had used 200ft-lb of torque on a small fastener like that....

                    Mark

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                      #11
                      Thanks for the responses guys... I actually left it last night do to the fact that I had misplaced my 9mm wrench. I finally found one this morning... I remember thinking that I had never seen a 9mm nut in my life. Then I went to loosen the nut and found that that 9mm fit a bit loose, I found the 11/32 wrench and it fit perfectly. Is it just me, or does it seem a bit out of place the 11/32 lock nuts on a Japanese bike?

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