2 More Quick Questions (Basic)

[DarkOnyx]

First of all I want to thank everyone for the great information on my last thread. I adjusted the clutch cable a bit, took the bike for a short spin... and it hasn't shown me any trouble yet. I'll take her for a more thorough test this weekend.

My first question is an issue of verification. I heard someone say that you should never let your bike go for two weeks without charging the battery, even if you have no power problems. Is that true?

Second of all, (since this is my first manual transmission vehicle) what is the best way to shift? I want to shift smoothly so as to ensure a long clutch life. Do I shift down to first before coming to a stop sign or a light... or is it better to brake completely and then shift down? ...Or is it some combination therein? Should I shift down to second or third while braking and then stop completely before shifting into first?

I am just curious. I LOVE my GS and I want her to be with me for a long, long, long time. I just want to make sure I take care of it.

Thanks a lot.

[SPARKSS]

Howdy Dark. If your battery is in good condition and your electrical system doesn't exhibit any residual current drain (verify by measuring), and your charging system both works AND doesn't abuse the battery (either by over or undercharging) then you'll have no probs leaving your bike switched off for 2 weeks or 2 months......excepting cold (winter) conditions.

How to shift. Most bikes have a relatively crude manual transmission, simple and rugged and, unlike most cars and trucks, not with the aid of synchronizers and selective shifting (where you can select any gear you want within reason). It's pretty much "progressive" excepting 1st and 2nd meaning that you have to go through one to get to the next.

Shifting smoothly involves accelerating smoothly THEN SIMULTANEOUSLY rolling off the throttle momentarily while pulling in the clutch, THEN shifting, THEN releasing the clutch smoothly. That's the basics. Always start from 1st (easiest on your clutch). While you're learning, resist the urge to rev it high.....shifts at say 4000 or so (depends on the bike) maximum will work for much of your driving......Most bikes like ours will not develop good torque much below 2500 rpm so avoid lugging here (unless riding down a hill or coasting down anticipating a downshift and or stop).

When you upshift (1-2-3-4-etc) the rpm has to DROP to the next gear (basic ratio math) thus the normal action of shifting fairly smartly almost causes this to happen on level ground. When downshifting however, you're going from a relatively low rpm situation to a higher rpm (for an equal road speed) thus a smooth driver simultaneously rolls off the throttle, pulls the clutch, REVS the engine to match the lower gear, and releases. When done correctly you shouldn't feel any abrupt lurch or deceleration.

You'll hear from others who routinely shift clutchless or at high rpm or without regard to matching rpm or worry about being smooth. These methods always shorten the live of transmissions, chains, engines AND ALWAYS TIRES. They also can put yourself in jeopardy should you be on loose surfaces (gravel or leaves) or frost or black ice OR WHILE IN RAIN ESPECIALLY ON HEAVILY TRAVELLED PAVEMENT just after the rain has started (oil is releasing from the surface). Think about the above when riding over wet or ANY steel surface as well........bridges, expansion joints, rail lines, ferry ramps.....you get the idea. What you're trying to avoid is rapid acceleration or deceleration of the rear wheel (just the same way you wouldn't abruptly brake under these conditions!).

With practice you should be able to pull away with hardly any slip of the clutch under most cases (a hill needs some help here often!).

"GNERALLY" you'll probably drive best shifting up one by one and down the same way.......and will find it often easier to ease into first just as you come to the stop - you'll sort this out.

Wishing you safe and fun riding.

[Mr. Brown]

Howdy Dark. If your battery is in good condition and your electrical system doesn't exhibit any residual current drain (verify by measuring), and your charging system both works AND doesn't abuse the battery (either by over or undercharging) then you'll have no probs leaving your bike switched off for 2 weeks or 2 months......excepting cold (winter) conditions.

How to shift. Most bikes have a relatively crude manual transmission, simple and rugged and, unlike most cars and trucks, not with the aid of synchronizers and selective shifting (where you can select any gear you want within reason). It's pretty much "progressive" excepting 1st and 2nd meaning that you have to go through one to get to the next.

Shifting smoothly involves accelerating smoothly THEN SIMULTANEOUSLY rolling off the throttle momentarily while pulling in the clutch, THEN shifting, THEN releasing the clutch smoothly. That's the basics. Always start from 1st (easiest on your clutch). While you're learning, resist the urge to rev it high.....shifts at say 4000 or so (depends on the bike) maximum will work for much of your driving......Most bikes like ours will not develop good torque much below 2500 rpm so avoid lugging here (unless riding down a hill or coasting down anticipating a downshift and or stop).

When you upshift (1-2-3-4-etc) the rpm has to DROP to the next gear (basic ratio math) thus the normal action of shifting fairly smartly almost causes this to happen on level ground. When downshifting however, you're going from a relatively low rpm situation to a higher rpm (for an equal road speed) thus a smooth driver simultaneously rolls off the throttle, pulls the clutch, REVS the engine to match the lower gear, and releases. When done correctly you shouldn't feel any abrupt lurch or deceleration.

You'll hear from others who routinely shift clutchless or at high rpm or without regard to matching rpm or worry about being smooth. These methods always shorten the live of transmissions, chains, engines AND ALWAYS TIRES. They also can put yourself in jeopardy should you be on loose surfaces (gravel or leaves) or frost or black ice OR WHILE IN RAIN ESPECIALLY ON HEAVILY TRAVELLED PAVEMENT just after the rain has started (oil is releasing from the surface). Think about the above when riding over wet or ANY steel surface as well........bridges, expansion joints, rail lines, ferry ramps.....you get the idea. What you're trying to avoid is rapid acceleration or deceleration of the rear wheel (just the same way you wouldn't abruptly brake under these conditions!).

With practice you should be able to pull away with hardly any slip of the clutch under most cases (a hill needs some help here often!).

"GNERALLY" you'll probably drive best shifting up one by one and down the same way.......and will find it often easier to ease into first just as you come to the stop - you'll sort this out.

Wishing you safe and fun riding.

As a learning rider, I found this invaluable. I didn't know if my technique sucked, or if I needed a new clutch. Good to know I don't need a new clutch...

[DarkOnyx]

Howdy Dark. If your battery is in good condition and your electrical system doesn't exhibit any residual current drain (verify by measuring), and your charging system both works AND doesn't abuse the battery (either by over or undercharging) then you'll have no probs leaving your bike switched off for 2 weeks or 2 months......excepting cold (winter) conditions.

How to shift. Most bikes have a relatively crude manual transmission, simple and rugged and, unlike most cars and trucks, not with the aid of synchronizers and selective shifting (where you can select any gear you want within reason). It's pretty much "progressive" excepting 1st and 2nd meaning that you have to go through one to get to the next.

Shifting smoothly involves accelerating smoothly THEN SIMULTANEOUSLY rolling off the throttle momentarily while pulling in the clutch, THEN shifting, THEN releasing the clutch smoothly. That's the basics. Always start from 1st (easiest on your clutch). While you're learning, resist the urge to rev it high.....shifts at say 4000 or so (depends on the bike) maximum will work for much of your driving......Most bikes like ours will not develop good torque much below 2500 rpm so avoid lugging here (unless riding down a hill or coasting down anticipating a downshift and or stop).

When you upshift (1-2-3-4-etc) the rpm has to DROP to the next gear (basic ratio math) thus the normal action of shifting fairly smartly almost causes this to happen on level ground. When downshifting however, you're going from a relatively low rpm situation to a higher rpm (for an equal road speed) thus a smooth driver simultaneously rolls off the throttle, pulls the clutch, REVS the engine to match the lower gear, and releases. When done correctly you shouldn't feel any abrupt lurch or deceleration.

You'll hear from others who routinely shift clutchless or at high rpm or without regard to matching rpm or worry about being smooth. These methods always shorten the live of transmissions, chains, engines AND ALWAYS TIRES. They also can put yourself in jeopardy should you be on loose surfaces (gravel or leaves) or frost or black ice OR WHILE IN RAIN ESPECIALLY ON HEAVILY TRAVELLED PAVEMENT just after the rain has started (oil is releasing from the surface). Think about the above when riding over wet or ANY steel surface as well........bridges, expansion joints, rail lines, ferry ramps.....you get the idea. What you're trying to avoid is rapid acceleration or deceleration of the rear wheel (just the same way you wouldn't abruptly brake under these conditions!).

With practice you should be able to pull away with hardly any slip of the clutch under most cases (a hill needs some help here often!).

"GNERALLY" you'll probably drive best shifting up one by one and down the same way.......and will find it often easier to ease into first just as you come to the stop - you'll sort this out.

Wishing you safe and fun riding.

Much obliged Sparkss, I think I've got it now. I'll need a little practice with the technique, but I'll take her out for a spin this weekend.


I appreciate all of the advice!

[Steve]

Another tip that I have found to make shifting a bit easier (sometimes)...
preload the shift lever. If you are acellerating and upshifting, put your toe uner the shifter and lift gently. Not enough to drag it out of gear, just load it a bit. Now, when you pull the clutch and lift the lever into the next gear, it's just a bit smoother.

Another thing that tends to help...don't pull the clutch lever all the way to the handlebar grip.
If you experiment just a bit, you will find that the clutch usually slips enough to shift gears with the lever still about half-way out. With the clutch grabbing just a tiny bit, the gears keep turning, instead of dropping to idle speed, so they don't have to speed up to match the new gear when you release the lever. Not pulling the lever all the way in also completes the shift a fraction of a second quicker, which helps keep the engine from dropping too much speed, too.

.

[Guest]

I shift at 9000 rpms. :-D
Nice and smooth.:shock:

[Pharkmeh]

I must confess i hardly shift up using the clutch ever regardless of rev range... just back off the throttle for a milli second & click her up.....

although always clutch on the way back down...hmmm theres a poll around here somewhere.....

ohhh yeah >>>> HERE \\/

cheers

Phark

[SPARKSS]

Howdy Steve. I'll offer a little constructive criticism to your first suggestion, which was to preload the shifter prior to the shift as it mainly sets you up for an unpredicted shift when you hit a bump. The higher miles that are on the transmission and the lighter the acceleration, the easier this will occur........it's not the end of the world - just not a smooth drive.

The second suggestion I don't find any problem with and will likely be what these fellows will do naturally as they ride more. My thrust was towards basic technique in this case.
Hope you've enjoyed some great rides this year like I have