'79 gs425 clutch issue

[Superdenny]

I have a 1979 GS425 with what I thought was a damaged clutch cable or clutch plates, as the clutch would not fully disengage. After replacing the both the plates and cable, the problem remained.

I've currently got the right side engine case off and the clutch exposed. I can manually actuate the clutch push rod by hand when the pressure plate springs are off, so I don't think the cable or actuator are the issue. When the new springs are on the push rod is impossible to move, even with my 250 pound stepfather pushing on it with a 2x4

What I'm concerned about is that when I manually push in the push rod to spread the plates, the rear tire still only spins with a considerable push, and only spins for about half a second. I soaked the clutch plates in oil beforehand so they should have had enough lubrication to disengage the clutch properly.

Every part I removed I either replaced (springs, bolts, clutch plates) or was within tolerances.

So I guess my questions are:

Is my shop manual wrong to say i should have all the springs bottomed out in the pressure plate?

What would cause the clutch to have so much friction with the plates spread? or am i trying to solve the wrong problem?

[Nessism]

How long have you had the bike and has the clutch ever worked properly?

To answer your question about the springs, the screws are supposed to be fully cranked down.

Just a guess but maybe you have too many plates in the clutch? Clutch pushrod bent?

[Superdenny]

How long have you had the bike and has the clutch ever worked properly?

I've had the bike for a couple years now, and put about 1000 miles on it. It's got 11k total. It worked like a charm untill a ~100 mile ride this summer with a burr in my clutch cable. The next time I tried to ride it I had to push the hell out of it with the clutch lever in to get it to roll, though it was normal in neutral.

Just a guess but maybe you have too many plates in the clutch? Clutch pushrod bent?

I put as many plates in as i took out (6 drive, 6 driven). Both the new and old sets have the same issue of being very hard to turn even when spread. Does being immersed in oil make them much easier to turn?

The pushrod is straight as an arrow and not worn at all.

[Guest]

Problem with #25? Clutch adjustment screw?

[Superdenny]

I checked the whole actuation assembly (parts 22-28), and apart from a weak spring its fine. For test purposes I have a 2x4 to push in the clutch pushrod with so I can bypass that whole assembly and there is still drag.

The whole thing actually doesn't make sense to me, but my best guess is that something is causing excess friction which is making my clutch drag. Could any of those parts bend or warp?

[Guest]

I've seen clutch steels warp.

[Suzuki mad]

If you look inside the main housing where the plates go are there any marks or damage where the plates side in the recesses? This would cause drag or the clutch to stick.

The rod may bend if it had seized.

From what you describe the start of the problem was the clutch cable snapping. I am assuming that you changed that then found that the clutch was stiff after. When you replaced the cable did you re-set the small threaded rod on the right hand side of the bike? The adjuster (no 25 above)

If all the internal clutch parts are good then you will be looking at the actuator and adjuster (No24) plus the weak spring as the possible problem area.

Suzuki mad.