Feel like making my bike a boat anchor.....

[RMC]

Okay.....followed the stator papers and everything seems to check within the parameters given.......with the exception of final voltage at battery at 5000 RPM......13.4vDC

Carbs are clean and shiny no air leaks...all boots in great shape. Factory airbox is installed. No vacuum leaks.

Symptom #1.......cylinder 2 and 3 no fire. Coil for 2 and 3.....checks out fine via volt meter. (Have not tried putting plug in to see if I have a spark...no extra plugs laying around)

Symptom #2.......wires immediately after R/R connect plug to Stator wires get very hot. (I moved the ground from the battery box to the negative side of the battery yesterday....no change)

Symptom #3.......some really impressive back firing!

Symptom #4.......won't idle....probably because #2 and #3 not firing. (Will idle with choke on....idled fine before)

I'm at my wits end because I didn't have these problems a few weeks ago. All cylinders fired and the bike idled great....actually purred.

I have replaced the petcock since with a factory fresh one, but it appears to flowing correctly. I've checked the grounds and they all appear to be in good shape.

Brand spanking new battery!

Bike info....1982 GS650G...15K miles.

Any help is greatly appreciated.[-o<

Ross

[waterman]

Symptom #1.......cylinder 2 and 3 no fire. Coil for 2 and 3.....checks out fine via volt meter. (Have not tried putting plug in to see if I have a spark...no extra plugs laying around)

Can you switch coils to check to see if coils is faulty? Move coil for 1 and 4 to power 2 and 3. If 2 and 3 fire then problem with original 2 and 3 coil.
Your symptoms 3 and 4 are most likely related to misfiring cylinders.

One other concern is how is your battery? Fairly new and fully charged? Weak charging can lead to a run down battery that will not spark adequately.

[RMC]

I guess I can switch the coils.......but I sort of ruled that out when they checked out okay with the volt meter.

I did a continuity test on the wires leading to the coils and that checked out okay.

I ruled out the battery when it performed the same with the battery charger hooked up.

[79-GS550-L]

I guess I can switch the coils.......but I sort of ruled that out when they checked out okay with the volt meter.

My coils checked out fine with a voltmeter, but I was not getting a good spark (I would get a poor spark with new plugs and no spark with fouled plugs). I replaced the coils and the difference is astounding. I think if the insulation starts breaking down but there is still some, the low voltage of the voltmeter doesn't cross the insulation but the high voltage in practice crosses it. At least that's my theory. Also I replaced the coils with better dynatek ones, so that probably helped.

[rkubik]

plug caps

try checking if one of your plug caps is bad. Pull back the rubber boot, and they will unscrew from the plug wire. They should all be the same resistance.

[Steve]

I LIKE ANCHORS. 8-[


How far would I have to drive to come pick it up?


.

[RMC]

I LIKE ANCHORS. 8-[


How far would I have to drive to come pick it up?


.

Hey now....that's not helping much!

Do you know if there is supposed to be a ground from the R/R mounting screw to the frame?

[Steve]

Hey now....that's not helping much!

Just doing what I can. 8-[

Do you know if there is supposed to be a ground from the R/R mounting screw to the frame?

Yes, there should be a good ground. The r/r mount is not necessarily the ground, there should be a wire (probably black) that is attached somewhere to the frame. Somehow, Suzuki saw fit to rely on the battery box for a ground, but most of them are rubber-mounted, so grounding is only a dream. If you don't want to cut and extend the ground wire, at least add another wire from where it is currently "grounded" and run that wire straight to the battery.


.

[RMC]

Yes, there should be a good ground. The r/r mount is not necessarily the ground, there should be a wire (probably black) that is attached somewhere to the frame. Somehow, Suzuki saw fit to rely on the battery box for a ground, but most of them are rubber-mounted, so grounding is only a dream. If you don't want to cut and extend the ground wire, at least add another wire from where it is currently "grounded" and run that wire straight to the battery.
.

I managed to run the blk/white wire coming out of the R/R to the negative on the battery. Do I also need to ground the R/R, at the mounting screw, to the frame?

Swapped the coils and now only #4 fires.

Thanks,
Ross

[Steve]

Do I also need to ground the R/R, at the mounting screw, to the frame?

As far as I know, as long as you have a ground wire connected (and you say that you do), the r/r can float in the breeze if it wants. It does not even have to be mounted, let alone mounted to a ground.


.

[Thomas Kenny]

what is your voltage at the coils with the key turned to the on position??

When cranking??

I had to wire in a relay from the battery to the coils as my old wiring was not getting good current to the coils from my spanking new battery.
:-D

[RMC]

what is your voltage at the coils with the key turned to the on position??

When cranking??

:-D

Volts at coil.....

Key on Position
Left.....11.05
Right...10.18

Cranking
Left.....9.0
Right...9.3

[RMC]

bump this back up top for some more ideas.

[79-GS550-L]

Those voltages sound too low. With my setup I could not get a good spark below 11-12 volts (12 was ok, 11 was really pushing it). If you have 10.18v to one coil when you're NOT cranking, either your battery is shot or your wiring is corroded and acting as a resistor (or both). Since you have different voltages to each coil, your wiring is definitely causing problems. If your battery is below 12.7 or so when fully charged and the bike is off, you need a new battery. Anyways, I'd correct the voltage going to the coils before suspecting bad coils. Hope that helps


Edit: make sure your multimeter pins are touching clean bare metal. You will get screwy readings that could be off by a volt or two if the connectors you're probing are even slightly corroded. I found that out the hard way Just scrape at them with a utility blade or something.

[RMC]

Those voltages sound too low. With my setup I could not get a good spark below 11-12 volts (12 was ok, 11 was really pushing it). If you have 10.18v to one coil when you're NOT cranking, either your battery is shot or your wiring is corroded and acting as a resistor (or both). Since you have different voltages to each coil, your wiring is definitely causing problems. If your battery is below 12.7 or so when fully charged and the bike is off, you need a new battery. Anyways, I'd correct the voltage going to the coils before suspecting bad coils. Hope that helps


Edit: make sure your multimeter pins are touching clean bare metal. You will get screwy readings that could be off by a volt or two if the connectors you're probing are even slightly corroded. I found that out the hard way Just scrape at them with a utility blade or something.

Battery is at 12.54 before doing anything, but I have the same symptoms when I have the charger hooked up.

How do I know if the Ignitor is bad?